11 Ceramics Unit 2: Functional Ceramics Ms. Lim

I will also demo pulling handles, trimming and altered forms For the first section of the slideshow, I will demo each of the steps on the wheel I will also demo pulling handles, trimming and altered forms

Throwing various forms on the wheel: The bowl All begin with the beehive shape after it has been centered. But you open a plate, cylinder (mug, pitcher or teapot) and a bowl differently. Use the curve of both thumbs and push the centre of the beehive down to about 2-3 cm above the wheel head. This will make the beehive shape get wider at the top so be sure to cone in before you pull. First pull: slightly curved in at the top. Second pull, a little wider, third shape the bowl to the form you want.

Trouble Shooting for a bowl Common problem 1: the bowl slumps Solution: use a rib to form the roundness right at the end. Common problem 2: bowl walls fall over completely because of gravity. Solutions: don’t open the bowl too early, use less water and make sure you dry out between pulls.

Making a cylinder Open initially like a bowl but then using one hand to support the other, pull the opening/floor all the way over to the sides and even into the side of the wall just a little. Cone in and begin pulls. Pull three times, keeping the top coned in until the end when you go for the desired shape.

Trouble Shooting a cylinder Problem: I can’t very much height. Solution: Start at the bottom and press into the outer wall to gather more clay for the pull. Problem: My piece gets torqued. Solutions: 1) use a rib to support weak areas 2) make sure that you’re not pulling on an angle and that the fingers on both hands are touching 3) Pull more slowly (use half speed when pulling and go slower with each pull) Problem: My piece falls in at the neck when I try to bring the clay in to make a neck on a piece. Solution: don’t overwork the neck. Use a hairdryer to dry out the clay at the neck and it will have more strength. There’s a lot of gravity working a vase neck. Problem: My piece keeps on going out of center. Solution: It’s really important for a cylinder that all of the clay is centered. You need to do this when you cone up and down two times before you throw. This centers even the middle of your lump of clay.

Plates After you center the clay and make your beehive shape, keep your left hand controlling the outside edge and use your right hand like a knife and push down on the beehive until you get a disk the size that you want for the center area of your plate. Then when you open, use your fingers to make a small impression and pull this shallow area open to the sides. Hold on to the edge of the disk with your thumbs. Make sure you have 2 cm height above the wheel (use a pin tool to check). Pull the walls to the height you want for the plate lip and then fold the edge over.

Trouble shooting plates Problem: My plates get a crack in the shape of an “S” through the bottom. Solution: You must compress the bottom more. Press your fingers down and run it across the floor. Use a sponge and do the same. Problem: The wall falls over when I try to pull it down for the plate edge. Solutions: 1) Don’t fight gravity. Keep the edge slightly turned up on an angle and then press them down once they’ve dried for a few hours. 2) Use a light hand and only pull twice. Don’t use a lot of water

Trimming Ideally, a form should have perfectly even walls. Most beginner pottery has a heavy bottom so it needs to be thinned out and a foot needs to be added.

Cutting and altering thrown work

Pulling a handle

Part 2: Idea file

Things to consider: Shape Overall shape: round, square, rectangular, ellipse Irregular shape or irregular edges

Depth and height

Articulation of the lip Straight up Curved in Curved out Bulbous

Use of decals - best on top of a glossy and smooth surface glaze Two images on the right are by Halifax ceramicist, Mariko Paterson

Idea file: Piercing

Idea file: wax resist

Idea file: carving out

Idea file: Painting Paint glaze on Paint glaze on texture and wipe off Underglaze

Sets