Fabric Construction

Fabric Construction Methods - Plain Weave - Twill Weave - Satin Weave - Felted (Non-Woven) - Knitted

Fibers The basic unit, either natural or manufactured, which is twisted into yarns, and then used in the production of a fabric.

Yarn A continuous strand of textile fibers created when a cluster of individual fibers are twisted together. These long yarns are used to create fabrics, either by knitting or weaving. Spun Yarns- a yarn made of staple fibers. Filament Yarns- a yarn made entirely of filament fibers. Twisting Fibers into Yarn Ply Yarns- When two or more single yarns are twisted together. Ply tells the number of strands twisted together; two ply, three-ply, etc. Combination Yarns- Are Ply yarns made of two or more different yarns. They can be formed by putting spun and filament yarns together in different ways. Blend- made when two or more fibers are put together before they are spun into yarns. (usually staple form). This evenly mixes different fibers and their characteristics.

Yarns (con’t) High- twist yarns- are firm, strong, dull in texture, and relatively fine in size. Low twist yarns- are softer, weaker, more lustrous, and less compact. Novelty Yarns- two or more yarns that are not alike in type or size are combined. Many variations of novelty yarns: used for both knitted fabrics and woven fabrics. Texturing- Done to manufactured fibers to add crimp, coils, or loops to the long filament fibers. Creates different surface textures. Use heat, chemicals, and special machinery. Turn and Talk How is this information useful for a designer? How is this information useful to a consumer?

Weaving The process of of interlacing two sets of yarns placed at right angles to each other. Two sets of yarns Warp Yarns- Lengthwise yarns Weft Yarns- Crosswise yarns

Plain Weave The simplest type of basic weave, that is a simple alternate interlacing of warp and filling yarns. Any type of yarn made from any type of fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Plain Weave Fabrics Basket Weave Gauze Batiste Georgette Broadcloth Gingham Calico Madras Canvas Muslin Challis Organdy Chambray Organza Chiffon Oxford Crepe Poplin Crepe de Chine Shantung Duck Taffeta Flannel

Twill Weave A basic weave that has a diagonal effect on the face, or right side, of the fabric. In some twill weave fabrics, the diagonal effect may also be seen clearly on the back side of the fabric. Generally the most durable of the woven fabrics.

Twill Weave Fabrics Denim Wool Flannel Gabardine Twill Tweeds Surah

Satin Weave A basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. This produces, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect. The shiny surface is increased by using high luster fibers that have a low twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns. Usually the least durable of the woven fabrics.

Satin Weave Fabrics Brocade Jacquard Sateen Satin Damask Charmeuse Satin Faced Crepe

Thread Count Number of Warp and Weft threads per square inch. Turn and Talk - Can you think of any textile products that are measured by their thread count? - Which Weave method do you think has the highest thread count? Does that make the fabric stronger?

Pile Fabrics Made with either a Plain or a Twill weave in which an extra filling yarn has been added. Pile Fabrics have loops or yarn ends projecting from the flat woven or knit surface.

Pile Fabrics Corduroy (shown) Velvet Velveteen Fake Fur Terry Cloth

Knits Fibers are twisted into Yarns which are looped together into Fabric. 2 Methods of Knitting Fabrics Weft Knits Warp Knits

Knit Types Weft Knits- also called filling. Warp Knits Jersey (t-shirts) Rib Knits (used on necklines & sleeve cuffs) Interlock Knits Double Knits Warp Knits Tricot- (lingerie)

Knitting Terms Wales- Lines of loops that run the length of knitted fabrics. Courses- Lines of loops that run crosswise on the knitted fabric. Gauge- The number of stitches or loops per inch in a knitted fabric.

Wales The loops that run the length of the fabric.

Courses The darker loops going across the fabric.

Gauge The number of stitches, or loops per inch in a knitted fabric.

Knit Fabrics Jersey Double Knit Ribbed Knit Panne Velvet (shown) Pointelle Tricot French Terry Sweater Knit

Non-woven Fabrics Made directly from fibers rather than being made into yarns. Fabric Names- Felt Fleece Ultrasuede® Vinyl

Other Fabric Construction Methods Bonded Quilted Braided Laces & Net

Bonded Fabrics Method of permanently joining two layers of fabric together in some way such as with a chemical adhesive or fusible web.

Quilted Fabrics Quilted fabrics are made by “sandwiching” a layer of padding between two layers of fabric. These layers are then joined either with thread stitching or “ultrasonic stitches. (Basically stitches made my stitching with a heated pin that melts the layers together at the stitches.)

Lace Fabrics Lace is an openwork fabric made from a series of knots, twists, or loops.

Bibliography http://www.quiltdesigner.net/ http://fabricstockexchange.com/blog/fabric/apparel-textiles/lace-fabric-is-everywhere/ Threads magazine .com