COASTAL DATA INFORMATION PROGRAM 1975 - present Julie Thomas Scripps Institution of Oceanography La Jolla, CA February 26, 2008

CDIP XML METADATA – Runs on the fly from a MYSQL database

WAVE CONTENT – NOAA PROGRAM OFFICE – DIF Directional Waverider Buoy X,Y,Z Time Series Of Sea Surface “First 5” Parameters describing the 2D wave spectrum (a0,a1,b1,a2,b2) Z Time Series Frequency Spectrum, a0(f) (wave energy as a function of wave frequency) X,Y,Z Time Series First (a1,b1) and Second (a2,b2) Moments of the Directional Spectrum, expressed as infinite Fourier Series S(f,θ)= a0(f)·[a1·cos(θ)+b1·sin(θ) +a2·cos(2θ) +b2·sin(2θ) +a3·cos(3θ)+b3·sin(3θ)+a4·cos(4θ)+b4·sin(4θ) +………………infinity and beyond]

WAVE CONTENT The Big 3: X, Y, Z  Time Series Analysis  The First 5: a0(f),a1(f),b1(f),a2(f),b2(f) a0 Sample CDIP Spectral Data File

Coastal Data Information Program (CDIP) full wave spectral file sent to NDBC in XML format. Sample section from XML file. Integration with GTS/AWIPS allows dissemination to NWS offices.

NWS Eureka Forecast Wave Partitioning Model Allows for Depiction of varying swell directions. CDIP Spectral file is parsed, used as a driver for the wave model, and provides better interface with wave partitioning.

Now observations and models are talking the same language (i.e. based on spectral file input). Models Observations