Waves and Tides.

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Presentation transcript:

Waves and Tides

Waves are caused by wind dragging on the surface of the water

The length of water the wind blows over is called the fetch The stronger the wind, the longer it blows for. The longer the fetch, the larger the waves will be. A B

Waves break in shallow water Waves break in shallow water. The water that rushes up the sand is the swash

Water that rolls back into the sea is the backwash

When the swash is stronger than the backwash, material is added to the beach.

If the backwash is stronger than the swash, then the beach is eroded.

The Tees – Exe Line River Tees Hard Rock Soft Rock River Exe Hard Rock

The rise and fall in water levels are called tides. High tide Low tide

The moon ( and to a lesser extent the sun) exert a gravitational pull on the sea; they pull the water nearest them upwards – so the water level falls elsewhere.

As the moon travels around the Earth, and the Earth around the sun, the combined pull of the moon and sun changes; so the heights of the tides change too.