GARMENT SIZING AND PATTERN MAKING GM-2042 Lecture 2

Human Figure Types There are 8 main body shapes Straight Body Type Pear Body Type Spoon Body Type Hourglass Body Type Top Hourglass Body Type Inverted Triangle Body Type Oval Body Type Diamond Body Type

Human Figure

Human Anatomy Anatomy is the study of the shape and form of the human body. The human body has four limbs (two arms and two legs). A head and a neck which connect to the torso. The body's shape is determined by a strong skeleton made of bone and cartilage, surrounded by fat, muscle, connective tissue, organs, and other structures.

ANATOMICAL TYPES Anatomical means “Relating to Physical Structure” i.e. relating to or showing the physical structure of the body. Anatomically, there are three types of human body: Endomorphic Mesomorphic Ectomorphic

Endomorphic The body of the extreme endomorph is round and soft. The physique presents the illusion that much of the mass has been concentrated in the abdominal area. This may or may not be true. The arms and legs of the extreme endomorph are short in length. The hands and feet of the endomorph are comparatively small.. The body has a high waist.

General characteristics Endomorph Soft Body Round Physique Weight Loss is Difficult Gains Muscle Easily Like the Mesomorph

Mesomorphic The Mesomorphic has well-defined muscles and large bones. The torso tapers to a relatively narrow and low waist. The bones and muscles of the head are prominent. Features of the face are clearly defined, such as cheek bones. The face is long and broad in shape. Arms and legs are developed.

General characteristics MESOMORPH Hard Body Hourglass Shaped (Female) Rectangular Shaped (Male) Mature Muscle Mass Muscular Body Excellent Posture Gains Muscle Easily Gains Fat More Easily Than Ectomorphs Thick Skin

Ectomorph The extreme ectomorph physique is a fragile and delicate one. The bones are light, joints are small and muscles are slight. The limbs are relatively long in proportion and the shoulders drop. The ectomorph is a linear physique. Straight up and straight down, and may appear longer than he or she really is, due to the length of limbs coupled with lack of muscle mass developed on those limbs. The ectomorph is not naturally powerful and will have to work hard for every ounce of muscle and every bit of strength he or she can gain.

General characteristics Ectomorphic Delicate Built Body Flat Chest Fragile Lean Lightly Muscled Small Shouldered Takes Longer to Gain Muscle Thin

Landmark terms Landmark terms are essentially they words used to identify parts of the body, or dress form, that are referred to when measuring the body. Generally, we measure from one landmark to another. Center front neck + Center back neck Center front waist + Center back waist Bust points Center front bust level (between bust points) Side front (princess) + Side back (princess) Mid-armhole front + Mid-armhole back Shoulder tip Shoulder at neck (shoulder/neck) Armhole ridge or roll line Plate screw Armhole plate

Pattern Making tools Straight pins: for draping and fittings. Straight pin holder Pincushion, or magnetic holder. Scissors Paper scissors. Fabric scissors Pencils and pens Mechanical pencil and sharpener. (Use #4-H lead for pattern work. Red and blue colored pencils to identify pattern changes. Black, green, red, and blue felt-tip pens for pattern information

Pattern Making tools Japanese Ruler Curve rules French curve Sleigh curve Hip curve rule to shape hipline Vary form curve to blend and shape armhole neckline

Pattern Making tools Hanger hooks or ringers:

Pattern Making tools Push pins Stapler and remover scotch tape Black twill tape Notcher Measuring tape 60 inches long Tailor’s chalk

Pattern Making tools

Pattern Making tools Pattern paper Pattern paper has code numbers to indicate its weight from heavy to light Heavy-weight Paper—Weight Code Heavyweight pattern paper is called tag board, manila, or hard paper and is used primarily for production patterns Light-weight Paper—Weight Code Lightweight paper is called marking paper. Marking paper is used for making markers and to develop first patterns.

FABRIC TERMS Muslin. A plain-woven cotton made from bleached or unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights Coarse-weave: Used for draping and testing basic patterns. Light-weight: Used for softly draped garments. Heavy-weight: Firmly woven, used for testing tailored garments, jackets, and coats.

Terminologies Grain. The direction in which the yarn is woven or knitted (lengthwise grain, or warp; crosswise grain or weft). Lengthwise grain (warp). Yarns parallel with selvage and at right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the most stable grain. Crosswise grain (weft). Yarns woven across the fabric from selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics. Crosswise grain yields to tension Selvage. The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric. Clipping selvage releases tension.

PATTERN GRAINLINE The pattern grainline is a line drawn on each pattern piece (from end to end) to indicate how the pattern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric. where the grainline is drawn on the pattern, it will always be placed on the fabric so that the grainline is parallel to the selvage edge