BHUTAN : SNOWMAN TREK 6/6 : KM 205 TO KM 300

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Presentation transcript:

BHUTAN : SNOWMAN TREK 6/6 : KM 205 TO KM 300 The presentation of this trek is divided in 6 chapters. Here is chapter 6 covering the last leg of the trek, still in remote Lunana region & then thru 4 high passes, from Thanza to Sephu. This part of the trek is the hardest and the most dangerous. Highlights on this section are views over Pho Chhu valley, 3 passes over 5000 m (Jaze La, Loju La & Rinchen Zoe La) and pristine glacial lakes. The mythical Snowman Trek is said to be one of the most difficult (if not the most !) treks in the world. Only about 300 people a year attempt this trek, and fewer than half of them eventually finish it, either because of problems with altitude or heavy snowfall on the high passes, or just because its lengh (some do not go further than Laya) : the combination of distance, altitude, remoteness and weather makes this trek a tough journey. It more or less follows the northwestern border of Bhutan with Tibet. Some figures : altogether 300 km (as measured with my GPS, although ‘official’ distance is announced as 400 km) not including some interesting side trips, 12 big passes (5 above 5000 m), a 14000 m cumulative ascent (same for descent). I did the trek in 21 days (although 24 days would be more appropriate, but I had to rush during the last days as there was a risk to be blocked by snow). In some places, especially in Lunana region, you might be trapped between 2 high passes (the only way out is then by helicopter). The only reasonnable time to tempt this trek is from late September to mid October (beforehands : monsoon rains, afterwards : snow …). Some words : Chhu = river, La = pass, dzong = fort/monastery, tsho = lake Dominique LAURENT Meet me on mosttraveledpeople.com or thebesttravelled.com AUTOMATIC NO COMMERCIAL USE WITHOUT PRIOR APPROVAL

Day 16, km 205 : Toencha village, Pho Chhu valley, near Thanza

Day 16, km 205 : Toencha village, Pho Chhu valley, near Thanza

Day 17 : south side of Pho Chhu valley, up to Jaze La

Day 17 : south side of Pho Chhu valley, up to Jaze La

Day 17 : south side of Pho Chhu valley, up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) (north side of Pho Chhu valley), up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) & Pho Chhu valley with Thanza village ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) & Pho Chhu valley with Thanza village ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Pho Chhu valley with Thanza village ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Pho Chhu valley with Thanza village ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Pho Chhu valley with Toencha village ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : frosted rhododendron shrub ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : Zongaphu Gang (Table Mountain) (7094 m) & Pho Chhu valley with Thanza & Toencha villages ; walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La

Day 17 : walking up to Jaze La (view backwards)

Day 17 : approaching Jaze La ; up to Jaze La

Day 17, km 218 : Jaze La (5220 m), 9th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 17, km 218 : NW, view from Jaze La (5220 m), 9th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 17, km 218 : SE, view from Jaze La (5220 m), 9th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 17, km 218 : SE, view from Jaze La (5220 m), 9th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 17 : glacial lake (5100 m) ; down from Jaze La (5220 m) to Tshochena

Day 17 : another glacial lake (5060 m) ; down from Jaze La (5220 m) to Tshochena

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : Tshochena lake (4377 m) (view backwards) ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : glacial lake (north side of the pass), up to Loju La ; between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18 : view of Loju La, between Jaze La (5220 m) & Loju La (5111 m)

Day 18, km 226 : Loju La (5111 m), 10th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 18 : glacial lake viewed from Loju La (5111 m) (south side of the pass), 10th main pass on the Snowman Trek

Day 18 : between Loju La (5111 m) & Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m)

Day 18, km 235 : view N from Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m), 11th main pass on the Snowman Trek (the highest pass)

Day 19, km 239 : a broad glaciated valley at 5080 m just under Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m)

Day 19 : broad glaciated valley at 5080 m between Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m) & Chukarpo

Day 19 : between Rinchen Zoe La & Chukarpo

Day 19 : glacial lake (5080 m) between Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m) & Chukarpo

Day 19 : yak caravans bring goods to Thanza (this is the only way to supply the Pho Chhu valley …). There are no villages for nearly a week between Thanza & the end of the trail at Sephu. I met nobody except these yak caravans (twice in 5 days).

Day 19 : glacial lake (5000 m) between Rinchen Zoe La (5297 m) & Chukarpo

Day 19 : down to Chukarpo campsite & Thampe Chhu valley

Day 19, km 251 : Chukarpo (a camp site at 4600 m) above Thampe Chhu valley

Day 20 : down in the Tampe Chhu valley (the trail twists down to 3681 m before climbing up again to Thampe La)

Day 20 : my mules in a snowstorm crossing Thampe La (4649 m), 12th main pass on the Snowman Trek (last main pass …)

Day 20 : Thampe La (4649 m), 12th main pass on the Snowman Trek (last main pass …)

Day 21, km 277 : from Maurothang (3681 m), Nikku Chhu valley

Day 21 : from Maurothang, Nikku Chhu valley

Day 21 : despite lower altitudes, it is a very long & tiring day, from Maurothang to Sephu : an awfully muddy trail all the way ; the worse I ever seen ! The end of the trail is at Sephu (about km 300) a village reached by a small drivable track. This was the Snowman Trek which sometimes I thought would be more aptly be named the MADMAN TREK !!! END 6/6