Wire Jewelry design

What is jewelry? Personal ornaments such as necklaces, rings or bracelets that are typically made from or contain jewels and precious metal.

What is the purpose of jewelry? functional, generally to fix clothing or hair in place, or to tell the time (in the case of watches) as a marker of social status and personal status, as with a wedding ring as a signifier of some form of affiliation, whether ethnic, religious or social to provide talismanic protection (in the form of amulets) as an artistic display as a carrier or symbol of personal meaning – such as love, mourning, or even luck

origins Jewels were always part of human culture. Even from the times when humans first started using clothes and tools some 100,000 years ago, jewels were produced from any kind of materials that were available: Stones, animal skins, feathers, plants, bones, shells, wood, and natural made semi-precious materials such as obsidian. Advancing technology enabled artisans to start taming metals and precious gems into works of art that influenced entire cultures and many modern jewelry styles The purpose of wearing jewelry always remained the same Development of early jewelry can be roughly divided across three ancient civilizations - Egypt, India and China.

india Around 5000 years ago, people had the desire to adorn themselves, leading to the origin of jewelry. Since then, Indian women and jewelry have gone hand in hand. There cannot be a woman in India, who does not adore herself with minimum jewelry. In all kinds of traditional dance forms, jewelry has been a significant part. The sheer number of items forming the jewelry of an Indian woman is numerous, ranging from earrings and necklaces to pieces for adorning the hair, hip, face, and feet. Jewelry made with emeralds, diamonds, pearls, rubies, sapphires and other precious and semi-precious stones have been in practice for long.

Indian jewelry

China China started producing jewelry around 5000 years ago and as the time went on their civilization grew, and new jewelry designs rose to such popularity that all the Asian surrounding countries soon found themselves under heavy influence of Chinese culture which preferred silver over gold, and jade over any other precious gemstone. Chinese jewelry designs focused greatly on the use of Jade, which was thought to protect the bearer and provide a status symbol. The most popular decorative items in china were amulets, pins, headdresses, headbands, rings and earrings, worn by both males and females. Dragons and phoenix became one of the most popular designs that could be found in Chinese jewelry.

Chinese jewelry

egypt The first signs of established jewelry making was around 3,000–5,000 years ago. The Egyptians preferred the luxury, rarity, and workability of gold over other metals. Jewelry soon began to symbolize power and religious power in the community. Although it was worn by wealthy Egyptians in life, it was also worn by them in death, with jewelry commonly placed among grave goods. In conjunction with gold jewelry, Egyptians used colored glass, along with semi-precious gems. The color of the jewelry had significance. Green, for example, symbolized fertility. Lapis lazuli and silver had to be imported from beyond the country’s borders. Egyptian designs were most common in Phoenician jewelry. Also, ancient Turkish designs found in Persian jewelry suggest that trade between the Middle East and Europe was not uncommon. Women wore elaborate gold and silver pieces that were used in ceremonies.

Egyptian jewelry

Tools of the trade Bent chain nose - Chain nose pliers with a 45 degree bend for getting into tight places. Can also be used for picking up small parts, and opening and closing jump rings. Chain nose - Pointed flat nose pliers, used for gripping and tucking in wire ends, and getting into tight places. Round nose - Smooth, round jaws used for making loops and round bends in wire. Flat nose pliers - Broad, flat jaws used for gripping and holding wire and creating angular bends. Also great for opening and closing jump rings.

Tools of the trade Flush cutter - A flush cutter is a jewelry wire cutter that is made to cut wire leaving one side of the cut to be flush (or flat) and the other side of the cut to be sharp (pointed).  A conventional cutter will cut the wire leaving both sides semi-sharp.  One side of the jaws on a flush cutter is flat, the opposite side is beveled.  End Cutter Nippers – Cutters used to cut wire and findings. They create a close, even cut. Side Nippers – Use these to cut wire right next to an object. Jig - A jig is a jewelry making tool with a series of pegs used to form or shape wire.

Gauges Wire diameter is measured In gauges. The larger the gauge number, the thinner the wire.

Findings A finding is a jewelry making component, frequently made of metal.   Ear wires, head pins, eye pins and clasps are examples of findings.  Ear Wire - A finding used to allow the wearing of earrings.  The ear wire connects the earring body to the wearer's ear Jump Ring - A jump ring is a metal finding that is round.  Jump rings can be open like the one shown at right or they can be soldered closed Yoke - A yoke is the center piece in a necklace.  In the necklace at right you can view two yokes.  This necklace is a project that allows you to interchange the yoke in a necklace. 

Techniques A loop is essentially a circle made in a wire segment. Made with Round Nose Pliers.  Open loop - Opening a loop is a jewelry making technique for using Chain Nose or Bent Nose Pliers to open a loop without distorting the shape.  By opening a loop you can connect other components to this loop, then close the loop while retaining the round shape of the loop.  A "P" loop is a loop made in wire where the loop is on one side of the wire.  The shape of the loop and the wire makes this look like the letter "P", hence the name. Made with Round Nose Pliers. "U" shaped bend refers to bending wire in the shape of the letter "U".  This bend is frequently made with the tips of your Round Nose Pliers.  This technique is frequently used when wrapping fine gauge wire around another wire component as shown at right.  A spiral is a wire component made by wrapping wire around itself in a flat plane.  An example of a spiral is shown at right.  Spirals are made with Round Nose and Flat Nose Pliers.

CLASPS and Connections The highlighted clasps are referred to as “simple”. They were made with Round Nose Pliers

earrings and pendants What tools do you think the artists used to make these?

chain necklaces, bracelets What tools do you think the artists used to make these?

Bracelet made by using Round Nose Pliers with a combination of Jump Rings and U-shape variations

rigid jewelry (no chains & not flexible) rings

Bracelet

Necklace

Earrings

Helpful tips for this project Do not open Jump Rings by prying apart. They will lose their round shape.

Jewelry work Write this down in your notebook Must complete these before you can start your final project work. 2 simple clasps : One loop, P loop and an open loop A simple chain, 4 jump rings minimum: A spiral: A wire rapped object: or use of beads and wire:

homework Bring in 3 images of jewelry that you like. Printed images or SAVED in your cellphone. This and the notes will be checked at the beginning of next class.

today -Begin researching for your homework. Look up “how to” videos on wire jewelry making. -Complete your Dream Catcher Rubric and pin onto blue board. -You may make another Dream Catcher for a gift (the holidays are coming)

Assignment Create a wire jewelry (set) design of your choice. Must include two of the following: Necklace, Earrings, Bracelet, Ring or Pin.

Make 4 thumbnail sketches that demonstrate your jewelry project ideas. today Make 4 thumbnail sketches that demonstrate your jewelry project ideas.

HOMEWORK Decide on a theme or central idea For example: Chinese, recycled, ocean Bring in additional objects to add to your piece(s) of jewelry