A brief editorial on the history of the Scottish Tartan Tartan Madness A brief editorial on the history of the Scottish Tartan 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Fake News Everywhere! Is the Scottish Tartan only a recent invention? Did Clan Tartans exist before the 19th century Tartans are over 3,000 years old Prince Charles & Barbara Streisand love affair – (National Enquirer) 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee A Real Thread The “Tartan” is a thread weaving together the history of Scotland, running from the ancient highlands, through the wrenching changes of the mid-18th century, onto resurgence of royal pageantry of the 19th, to forming the background to modern cultural identity of modern Scotland. 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Define “Tartan” Is it French “Tartarin” meaning “Tartar cloth” or Scot’s Gaelic “Tarsainn” meaning “across”? Plaid, derived from Scot’s Gaelic “Plaide” meaning “blanket” – not a pattern 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee If not for the Weavers Alternating bands of pre-dyed threads Warp & Weft cross each other at right angles Warp advances one thread per pass, Weft two over and two under, creating the Sett 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Old and Ancient Tartan fabric dating to 1200 BC found with mummified Caucasian remains in Urumchi, China The Falkirk “tartan”, dated to 230 AD, found in a jar of Roman coins near the Antoine Wall (found in 1933) 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Old and Ancient Starting in the late 17th century, evidence shows Clan Chiefs and Lords requiring common Setts among their retainers Tartans more associated with Highland culture, rather than Lowland or Border regions. The “Acts of Union 1707” is unpopular more Tartans associated with the Lowland 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Old and Ancient Until the late 18th, early 19th Centuries, colors relating to vegetable dyes indigenous to that region. Far more muted than what we have today Patterns based on local weaver talents and creativity 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee The ‘45 and Aftermath The Dress Act of 1746: That from and after the first day of August, One thousand, seven hundred and forty-six, no man or boy within that part of Britain called Scotland, other than such as shall be employed as Officers and Soldiers in His Majesty's Forces, shall, on any pretext whatever, wear or put on the clothes commonly called Highland clothes (that is to say) the Plaid, Philabeg, or little Kilt, Trowse, Shoulder-belts, or any part whatever of what peculiarly belongs to the Highland Garb; and that no tartan or party-coloured plaid of stuff shall be used for Great Coats or upper coats, and if any such person shall presume after the said first day of August, to wear or put on the aforesaid garment or any part of them, every such person so offending ... For the first offence,shall be liable to be imprisoned for 6 months, and on the second offence, to be transported to any of His Majesty's plantations beyond the seas, there to remain for the space of seven years. 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Repeal to the Modern Era 1778 Highland Society of London is formed and is instrumental in the repeal of the Acts of Proscription in 1782 1790 Sees the first systematic naming of Setts by William Wilson & Sons of Bannockburn 1822 George IV visits Edinburgh, creating “Clan Panic” to wear tartan finery to the Royal Levee. 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Repeal to the Modern Era 1842 The Sobieski brothers, alleged grandsons of Bonnie Prince Charles publish the “Vestiarium Scoticum” of old Clan Tartans – many are outright inventions 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Repeal to the Modern Era 1842 Also sees the visit to Scotland by Victoria and Albert, the beginning of the Victorian love affair with Scotland. 1853 The first of the Royal Tartans are produced. Designed by Prince Albert. Balmoral Stewart Old  11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Repeal to the Modern Era Through the Industrial Revolution, Chemical Dyes introduce wider variation and brighter colors, leading to the Tartans we see today. Modern, Ancient, and Muted (1970s), refer to a style of color dye and not pattern or date of the Tartan Modern Ancient Muted  11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Repeal to the Modern Era In honor of Veterans, Remembrance, & Armistice Day US Navy (Edzell) Royal Navy   USMC Black Watch  11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee

Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee Questions? 11/11/2017 Scottish Society of Middle Tennessee