FOLDERS USED IN SEWING MACHINES
Family of FOLDERS… Belong to the category of WORK AIDS…
What are WORK AIDS? Additional devices that can be added to basic sewing machines COMMON TYPES include Guides Specialized presser feet Stitching jig Folders Binders USES To improve productivity Improve or maintain quality standards Reduce training time of operator Reduce fatigue of operator
Understanding FOLDERS… Generally used in situations where fabric must be folded prior to sewing Can be used for folds ranging from simple to complex Mostly separate devices attached to machine Enable Great increase in productivity High standard of control over quality of finish obtained
Folders for SHIRTS 7 6 1 5 2 4 3 SHOULDER and YOKE joining POCKET hemming 2 CUFF HEMMING Long sleeve 3 Short sleeve 4 PLEAT gauges 5 Closing SIDE SEAMS 6 SLEEVE PLACKET 7
SHOULDER and YOKE joining… YOKING FOLDER Turns down the top ply and joins it to two additional ply The bottom ply is then turned back to form the yoke Special foot is needed SHOULDER JOINING FOLDER Foot and Guide assist in turning and top stitching front and back collar bands after they have been sewn to the collar Produces a consistent stitch margin along the bead
POCKET hemming… Used to hem the top of pockets
DOWNTURNED IMITATION CUFF UPTURNED IMITATION CUFF CUFF hemming (short sleeve)… DOWNTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER Produces tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts May be used on lockstitch or chain stitch machines Stripes and plaids are easily matched Piping and other types of trim may also be added UPTURNED IMITATION CUFF HEMMER Produces a tailored cuff on knit and dress shirts Must be used on lockstitch machines
CUFF hemming (long sleeve)… UPTURNED CUFF HEMMER Used on lockstitch machines with lining and face goods in short pieces Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods DOWNTURNED CUFF HEMMER Used on chain stitch machines with lining in rolls and face goods in pieces or rolls Hemmer is adjustable to allow for different size lining and face goods
Closing SIDE SEAM… LAP SEAM FOLDER Lap seam folders are used Folder with separate width adjustment are available Can also be made with a spring release which will allow sleeve seam to pass through freely
SLEEVE PLACKET… Used to sew a continuous facing around the sleeve opening. Designed for sewing short pieces in straight runs on side of sleeve
Folders For JEANS BELT LOOPS 1 Close SIDE SEAMS 2 Close INSEAMS 3 Set ZIPPERS 4 BOTTOM LEG hemming 5 Join RISER SEAM 6
For blind stitch machines (overlap style) BELT LOOPS… Used for producing belt loops on double needle cover stitch machines from short strips of material For blind stitch machines (overlap style)
Close SIDE SEAMS… Flat Bed Style Feed Off The Arm Style Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity
Close INSEAMS… LAP SEAM FOLDER WITH PIPING IMITATION LAP SEAM Used to attach ready made trim or piping to leg seam IMITATION LAP SEAM Produces an Imitation Lap Seam for decorative effects
Set ZIPPERS… FLY FRONT FOLDER Turns the lining down and stitches it to the fly in one operation Top Scroll and Bottom Guide adjustable Used to attach and topstitch left zipper fly on jeans and corduroys Top and bottom scrolls adjustable to achieve desired stitch margin Available for all lockstitch, needle feed and compound feed machines
BOTTOM LEG hemming… Used to hem bottom legs of dungarees and similar garments Has width adjustment and spring action for seams
Join RISER SEAM… FLAT BED STYLE FEED OF THE ARM STYLE FLAT BED STYLE Have width adjustment to allow operator to keep a very close stitch margin Available with spring front to allow seam clearance Can be made either right or left, in light, medium or heavy capacity
covered ELASTIC ATTACHMENT single TURN HEMMER BARREL HEMMERS (roll hemmers) ZIPPER attachment for Multi needle machines Multiple NEEDLE BANDING
Covered ELASTIC ATTACHMENT… Designed for use with covered webbing in making a shirred waistband on sportswear, pants It folds banding around the stretched webbing and simultaneously applies it to the garment
Single turn HEMMER… Single turn (Raw Edge) hemmers
BARREL HEMMERS ( roll hemmers)… Excellent for continuous Hemming on automatic sewing operations Made for most two needle machines
ZIPPER attachment for multi-needle machines… Designed to give greater production, with greater uniformity, from a less skilled operator OPERATION The individual zipper is pushed through the guide to the foot The garment parts are then placed in the folders and the whole section is sewn at one time
Multiple needle BANDING… Designed for banding skirts, shorts, etc. Made with an adjustable gauges so that the amount of 'bite' on the garment can be varied