Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process PATTERN DEVELOPMENT Pattern Types and Pattern Making Process

Key Concepts and Terms Apparel Design Technical Pack (Tech Pack) Block Pattern CAD-Computer Aided Design Costing Design Details Design Samples Drafting a Pattern Flat Pattern Garment Cost Sheet Grading

Key Concepts and Terms Logistics Pattern Maker Pattern Specification Sheet Production Samples Prototype Retail Reverse Engineered Pattern Sloper Pattern Sourcing Tariffs Wholesale

Pattern Making Process Consider the fabric construction type and design details of conceptualized garment or apparel product Create a pattern Select the materials (fabrication and trims) Construct the sample (prototype) Fit, revise and finalize the sample Create an apparel technical design pack Prepare pattern for mass production

Considerations Fabric Construction Type: Will the garment be made from a knit or woven fabric? Answer to the above question will determine how much ease is needed when creating the pattern. Design Details: Special seams and stitching detail Darts, pleats, and tucks Casings and waistbands Plackets, sleeves, cuffs, and collars Pockets Fasteners *Note: Presence of certain parts and/or design details in a garment, illustrate a particular style.

Design Details *Garment Parts and Styles Basic Dress Styles: Collar Styles: Shirt, Button Down, Sailor, Convertible, Peter Pan, Chelsea, Bertha, Mandarin, Band, Crewneck, Turtleneck, Shawl, Bow Tie, Stock , Jabot Sheath, Shift, A-line, Tent, Empire or Lower waistline Other Dress Styles: Princess, Blouson, Shirtwaist, Coatdress, Asymmetrical, Jumper or Sundress Sleeve Types: Set-in, Kimono, Raglan Neckline Styles: Decollete̒, Jewel, Boat, Scoop, Horseshoe, Cowl, Raised, Square, V, Off the Shoulder, Sweetheart, and Keyhole. Set-In Sleeves Types: Bishop, Pleasant, Bell, Lantern, Cape, Shirt, Puff, Melon, Cowl, Petal,, Roll-up, Leg-o-Mutton, Shirred, Juliette, and Two-Piece Tailored Shirt Styles: Dress, Sport, Polo, Western, T-shirt, Tank, Fitted, Hawaiian, Tunic, Tuxedo, Camisole, and Henley

Design Details *Garment Parts and Styles Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts, Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box Skirt Styles: Straight, A-line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap   Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap

Creating a Pattern Designers begin by creating a 2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: Flat Pattern Drafting Reversed Engineered Draping Computer Generated

Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block. Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.

Types of 2D Pattern Making Methods Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.

Types of 3D Pattern Making Methods Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making. Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www.lucianagrimaldi.com

Selecting The Materials and Costing Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc. Preliminary costing is completed to ensure profitability. Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.

Construct the Sample Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. They work closely to ensure fit and design integrity. Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.

FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE PATTERN Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com

Apparel Design Technical Pack The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized. Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.

Apparel Design Technical Pack 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc. 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color. 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics. 5. Measurement details. 6. Care Instructions for labeling 7. Color details and season information

Sample of an Apparel Design Technical Pack Date- Designer- Season- Style #- Technical Sketch- include design and construction details Body Measurements Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Care Label Information Comments Swatch of Fabrics

Prepare Pattern For Mass Production Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion. The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer, but can be done by hand. Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.