Cape Wine Makers Guild Understanding German Riesling Riesling Review Cape Wine Makers Guild Understanding German Riesling

What makes German Riesling great?

German Riesling – ‘The Noblest Variety in the world’ Despite being steeped in vinous history and respected throughout the wine world, German Riesling as a wine category is often overlooked and underestimated. “Riesling is so digitally precise, so finely articulate, so pixilated and pointillist in detail that other wines seem almost mute by comparison,” However… New York Times wine columnist Eric Asimov flatly concedes that understanding German wines is “hellishly difficult.” But he, and every other Riesling lover, acknowledge the pursuit is “worth it.” ‘A gifted person can learn English in 30 hours, French in 30 days and German in 30 years’ – Mark Twain

Brief history Winemaking in Germany dates back to Roman times. The rise and fall (and rise again) of German Riesling in many ways mirrors European history. War has had the most profound effect on Germany’s wine. The First World War and the Second World War in particular totally destroyed the German wine industry. The negative effects of Liebfraumilch on the perception of German wines. The postwar economic recovery and mass-market consumerism fuelled demand for the bland, sugary white wine, named after a church in the nearby city of Worms. Much of it was produced from grapes grown in Rheinhessen and sold under kitschy brand names like Blue Nun, Black Tower and Goldener Oktober. New Wave Rieslings sparked a renaissance from the mid 90’s onwards – drier, more focused, very confidently constructed and highly distinctive Currently 90% of wines consumed in Germany are dry.

Three basic rules to understanding German wines Trusty classification system and terms Alcohol level: If it’s high, it’s dry 7.0-8.5% = fruity/sweet 9-10.5% = off-dry 11-14% = dry The older… the better!

Quality Classification 1) DEUTSCHER WEIN - German Wine Made from normally ripe and slightly under ripe grapes. Primarily consumed in Germany. These wines only have to comply with few restrictions and the wines are not officially tested. 2) DEUTSCHER LANDWEIN - German Country Wine A superior Deutscher Wein with a minimum of .5% more alcohol. The wine must come from one of 19 specified wine districts. A Landwein must not contain more than 18 grams of sugar per liter. 3) QUALITÄTSWEIN (QbA) - Quality Wine These wines have to obey the regional appellation laws and are tested for compliance by an official committee. These laws ensure that the wine is from one specific wine-growing region, is made of approved grape varieties and reached sufficient ripeness for a quality wine. These wines are chaptalized. 4) PRÄDIKATSWEIN - Wine with Special Attributes The German wine law refers to the following category as Prädikatswein representing graduating ripeness levels, which are in ascending order: These wines are all naturally produced, no chaptalization.

PRÄDIKATSWEIN Kabinett Grape sugar approx. 17 Balling  Potential Alcohol (% by vol.): 8.8% Usually light wines made of fully ripe grapes. Intended to be a light quaffing wine or to go with light food. Generally light in alcohol and calories. Can be dry, medium-dry or sweet. Spätlese - Late Harvest  Grape sugar approx. 19 Balling Potential Alcohol (% by vol.): 10% It literally means late harvest. Wines of superior quality made from grapes harvested after the normal harvest. Can be dry, medium-dry or sweeter style. Auslese - Select Picking   Grape sugar approx. 21,5 Balling Potential Alcohol (% by vol.): 12% Harvest of selected, very ripe bunches. Often resembling dessert wines, but they can be dry, medium-dry or sweet.

PRÄDIKATSWEIN Beerenauslese (BA) - Berries Select Picking   Grape sugar approx. 28 Balling Potential Alcohol (% by vol.): 16.4% Harvest of individually selected, overripe berries. Eiswein - Ice Wine Wines of at least BA intensity, made from grapes harvested and pressed while frozen.   Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) - Dry Berries Select Picking   Grape sugar approx. 38 Balling Potential Alcohol (% by vol.): 19% Harvest of individually selected berries that are overripe and dried up on the vine almost to raisins.

VDP Classification The Verband Deutscher Prädikatsweingüter (VDP) is the oldest national association of Premium wine-estates worldwide. It was founded in 191o and today has 200 elite producers committed to create top quality wines that reflect their terroirs. This a private organisation with strict rules determined by the VDP. Membership is by invitation only — Every five years the producers are extensively audited and it is possible to join the VDP or to be demoted from the association. In 2012, a new VDP’s classification system was created by its members. The quality of the wine is defined by its “terroir” and also by a set of quality criteria. The VDP’s philosophy combines the best components of the Burgundy and Bordeaux classification systems.

Four levels of VDP Classification GUTSWEIN — Versatile hand crafted estate wines for everyday drinking. Light, refreshing and fruit-forward wine that showcase the winegrower’s style. Large production, entry level. Regional wine. ORTSWEIN — Wines with regional roots. Accessible wine that highlight a village’s singular taste of place using typical grape varieties from the region. Food friendly. Village wine. ERSTE LAGE — Premium German wine. Sophisticated, terroir-influenced wine with significant ageing potential using only traditional grape varieties. Premier Cru wine. GROSSE LAGE /GEWAECHS (GG)— Grand wines from great vineyards. The essential expression of a singular site. Complex wine with an enormous ageing potential using only traditional grape varieties. Grand Cru wine.

Current state of German Riesling Hot off the press

The TELEGRAPH – 10 most expensive wines in the world 17TH aUGUST 2017 Fine wine has been one of the best performing asset classes of the last 20 years, and with some bottles fetching thousands of pounds at auction, buying high-end cases could be the answer to an early retirement. What should you be looking for? Cult Wines, one of the largest UK fine wine investment companies, has identified the 10 most expensive wines available to buy today. 1. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti – Romanee-Conti Grand Cru – Burgundy, France Average price per bottle: £11,793 - Most expensive vintage: 1990, £15,702 per bottle 2. Egon Mueller – Scharzhofberger Riesling – Trockenbeerenauslese – Mosel, Germany Average price per bottle: £8,183 - Most expensive vintage: 2003, £13,110 per bottle 3. Domaine Leroy – Musigny Grand Cru – Cote de Nuits, France Average price per bottle £5,824 - Most expensive vintage: 2012, £10,684 per bottle 4. Domaine Leflaive – Montrachet Grand Cru – Cote de Beaune, France Average price per bottle: £5,201 - Most expensive vintage: 2014, £8,885 per bottle 5. Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier – Musigny Grand Cru – Cote de Nuits, France Average price per bottle: £4,918 - Most expensive vintage 1990, £8,674 per bottle

The TELEGRAPH – 10 most expensive wines in the world 17TH aUGUST 2017 6. Domaine de la Romanee-Conti – Montrachet Grand Cru – Cote de Beaune, France Average price per bottle £4,176 - Most expensive vintage: 1988, £6,073 per bottle 7. Joh. Jos. Prüm – Wehlener Sonnenuhr – Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese – Mosel, Germany Average price per bottle £3,872 - Most expensive vintage: 1990, £5,701 per bottle 8. Fritz Haag – Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr – Riesling - Trockenbeerenauslese Goldkapsel – Mosel, Germany Average price per bottle £3,173 - Most expensive vintage: 1971, £3,773 per bottle 9. Domaine Leroy – Chambertin Grand Cru – Cote de Nuits, France Average price per bottle: £3,172 - Most expensive vintage: 1990, £5,512 per bottle 10. Domaine Leroy – Richebourg Grand Cru – Cote de Nuits, France Average price per bottle £2,838 - Most expensive vintage: 1949, £4,382 per bottle

The Mosel Vineyards in summer

The Mosel Vineyards in winter

Mosel – general info 5500 ha of Riesling 9500 ha in total 64 000 wine growers Over 3000 wineries An additional 2000 mini producers 31 VDP members Single post ‘Heart Binding’ trellis system used on steep terraced vineyards Terraced vineyards can have a gradient of 70 degrees Terraced vineyards are sprayed by helicopters

What makes the Mosel great? Being a continental climate, the Mosel is subject to light or heavy, spontaneous rains at all times of the year. Being one of the most northern growing regions in the world, the Mosel is one of the coolest. Vineyards here depend greatly on the slate to capture the heat of the sunlight during the day, and transfer the heat energy into the soil long after the sun has gone down. The reflection of the river also plays a supporting role in heat capturing. Since the river twists and turns almost backward on itself, the vineyards all face different directions, north, south, east, west. It has been said that the south facing vineyards get the most sunlight and the fruit ripens the best here. The other vineyards will more heavily depend on the Mosel reflection.

What makes the Mosel great? Slate - It comes in all different colours, mostly red, blue and gray, and it plays a huge part in the flavours of the wine. Devonian slate exemplifies Riesling with the classic aromas but are further recognized with some greenish yellow tones (mango, passion fruit) but also non fruit characteristics such as herbal, floral, and spiced aromas. Smoky characteristics and of course rocky minerality are also not uncommon in Riesling from Devonian slate. These wines are complex and have incredible aging potential. Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Graacher Domprobst and Graacher Himmelreich are all from blue Devonian slate. Red Slate, a softer slate contains much more loam than the dark slates, and have far less rocky density. Its ability to hold water is better for older vines. Red slate soil are also slightly less nutritious and vine roots have a much easier time finding the water supply as the soils are soft and easy to navigate without the dense rocky substance. With it’s dark colour, red slate soils are also able to attract heat well. The iron-infused slate leads to distinct aromas and minerality but also yellow fruit like peaches and exotic fruits like pineapple. The Ürziger Würzgarten vineyard is a famous example of red slate.

Visit to Mosel – March 2017 Pieter Ferreira and myself went to: Heymann Lowenstein - Winningen Dr Loosen - Bernkastel Nik Weis St Urbans-Hof – Leiwen (Trittenheim)

Understanding German Riesling Riesling Review Cape Winemakers Guild Understanding German Riesling No Estate Region Vintage VDP Classification Wine Alc RS TA Rand   1 Rheinhessen 2009 GG Trocken 13,5% 2 Pfalz 2007 13,0% 8,5g/l 7,5g/l 3 Rheingau EG 4 Mosel 2013 Kabinett 7,3% 50,5g/l 10g/l 5 7,5% 50g/l 6 53,9g/l 11,1g/l 7 Mosel (Saar) 2008 8,5% 8 Spaetlese 80g/l 9 2012 9,0% 10 2006 66g/l 9,4g/l 11 Auslese 7,0% 120g/l 9g/l 12 Mosel (Ruwer) 2005 78g/l 7,6g/l

Riesling Review Cape Winemakers Guild Understanding German Riesling No Estate Region Vintage VDP Classification Wine Alc RS TA Rand   1 Wittmann Rheinhessen 2009 GG Trocken Morstein 13,5% R 1 050,00 2 Okonomierat Rebholz Pfalz 2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch 13,0% 8,5g/l 7,5g/l R 1 475,00 3 Robert Weil Rheingau EG Kiedricher Grafenberg 4 Mosel 2013 Kabinett 7,3% 50,5g/l 10g/l 5 7,5% 50g/l 6 53,9g/l 11,1g/l 7 Mosel (Saar) 2008 8,5% 8 Spaetlese 80g/l 9 2012 9,0% 10 2006 66g/l 9,4g/l 11 Auslese 7,0% 120g/l 9g/l 12 Mosel (Ruwer) 2005 78g/l 7,6g/l

Riesling Review Cape Winemakers Guild Understanding German Riesling No Estate Region Vintage VDP Classification Wine Alc RS TA Rand   1 Wittmann Rheinhessen 2009 GG Trocken Morstein 13,5% R 1 050,00 2 Okonomierat Rebholz Pfalz 2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch 13,0% 8,5g/l 7,5g/l R 1 475,00 3 Robert Weil Rheingau EG Kiedricher Grafenberg 4 Julian Haart Mosel 2013 Kabinett Piesporter Schubertslay 7,3% 50,5g/l 10g/l R 550,00 5 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich 7,5% 50g/l 6 Weiser-Kunstler Emkircher Ellegub 53,9g/l 11,1g/l 7 Egon Mueller Mosel (Saar) 2008 Scharzhofberger 8,5% R 1 250,00 8 Spaetlese 80g/l 9 2012 9,0% 10 2006 66g/l 9,4g/l 11 Auslese 7,0% 120g/l 9g/l 12 Mosel (Ruwer) 2005 78g/l 7,6g/l

Riesling Review Cape Winemakers Guild Understanding German Riesling No Estate Region Vintage VDP Classification Wine Alc RS TA Rand   1 Wittmann Rheinhessen 2009 GG Trocken Morstein 13,5% R 1 050,00 2 Okonomierat Rebholz Pfalz 2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch 13,0% 8,5g/l 7,5g/l R 1 475,00 3 Robert Weil Rheingau EG Kiedricher Grafenberg 4 Julian Haart Mosel 2013 Kabinett Piesporter Schubertslay 7,3% 50,5g/l 10g/l R 550,00 5 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich 7,5% 50g/l 6 Weiser-Kunstler Emkircher Ellegub 53,9g/l 11,1g/l 7 Egon Mueller Mosel (Saar) 2008 Scharzhofberger 8,5% R 1 250,00 8 Fritz Haag Spaetlese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr 80g/l 9 JJ Pruem 2012 9,0% R 650,00 10 Dr Loosen 2006 Urtziger Wurzgarten 66g/l 9,4g/l R 1 350,00 11 Auslese 7,0% 120g/l 9g/l 12 Mosel (Ruwer) 2005 78g/l 7,6g/l

Riesling Review Cape Winemakers Guild Understanding German Riesling No Estate Region Vintage VDP Classification Wine Alc RS TA Rand   1 Wittmann Rheinhessen 2009 GG Trocken Morstein 13,5% R 1 050,00 2 Okonomierat Rebholz Pfalz 2007 Birkweiler Kastanienbusch 13,0% 8,5g/l 7,5g/l R 1 475,00 3 Robert Weil Rheingau EG Kiedricher Grafenberg 4 Julian Haart Mosel 2013 Kabinett Piesporter Schubertslay 7,3% 50,5g/l 10g/l R 550,00 5 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich 7,5% 50g/l 6 Weiser-Kunstler Emkircher Ellegub 53,9g/l 11,1g/l 7 Egon Mueller Mosel (Saar) 2008 Scharzhofberger 8,5% R 1 250,00 8 Fritz Haag Spaetlese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr 80g/l 9 JJ Pruem 2012 9,0% R 650,00 10 Dr Loosen 2006 Urtziger Wurzgarten 66g/l 9,4g/l R 1 350,00 11 Schloss Lieser Auslese Niederberg Helden 7,0% 120g/l 9g/l R 1 000,00 12 Karthaeuserhof Mosel (Ruwer) 2005 Eitelsbacher 78g/l 7,6g/l