Hair care 101 Grant Hall RA MJ 02.29.16

Not all hair is the same Hair is the manifestation of human diversity Thus, hair care products that work for your hair may not work for a friend’s This is an overview of hair care in general

Hair and scalp A lot of people think that these are separate, but they are intertwined Hair grows beneath the scalp, so scalp care is crucial Living parts: hair follicle, hair root, root sheath, and sebaceous gland

Actual hair The non-living parts, which is the hair that you see, consists of the cuticle which covers the cortex and medulla Because of this, damage done to the visible hair shaft cannot be repaired by a biological process However, much can be done to manage hair and ensure that the cuticle remains intact

Damage Because nothing biologically can change your hair shaft once it’s been damaged, products that claim to do this are false

Sebum Sebaceous glands in human skin produce sebum, which is composed primarily of fatty acids. Sebum protects hair and skin, and can inhibit the growth of microorganisms on the skin Sebum contributes to the skin’s slightly acidic natural pH (between 5 and 6.8) This oily substance gives hair moisture and shine as it travels naturally down the hair shaft, and serves as a protective substance preventing the hair from drying out or absorbing excessive amounts of external substances Also distributed mechanically by brushing/combing When sebum is present in excess, the roots of the hair can appear oily and darker than normal, and the hair may stick together

OILY HAIR? One of the causes may be that you are brushing excessively Brushing stimulates the sebaceous gland to produce and release sebum

Washing Washing hair removes: Sweat Oil Unwanted products/smells

But what does shampoo actually do? Shampoos work by applying water and shampoo to the hair The shampoo breaks the surface tension of the water, allowing the hair to become soaked What’s happening: The head of the shampoo molecule is attracting the water to the hair shaft Conversely, the tail of the shampoo molecule is attracted to the dirt and oil The physical action of shampooing makes the grease and dirt become an emulsion that is then rinsed away with the water. This is known as the emulsifying action. Sulfate free shampoos are less harming on color treated hair than normal shampoos that contain sulfates. Sulfates strip away natural oils as well as hair dye. Sulfates are also responsible for the foaming effect of shampoos.

How does dry shampoo work? Or does it? The alcohol or starch in the product soaks up the excess oil Traditionally, corn starch or baby powder has achieved the same effect Aerosol sprays can achieve similar effects, but at what cost…?

Dry shampoo Symptoms depend on the type of contact: Burning sensation Cough, shallow/slow breathing Diarrhea, nausea/vomiting Fever Irregular Heartbeat Lightheadedness/dizziness Loss of consciousness Skin irritation Weakness Touching propane results in frostbite-like symptoms

The “root” of hair damage Split ends, or trichoptilosis, happen when the protective cuticle has been stripped away from the ends of hair fibers Any chemical or physical trauma, such as heat, may lead to split ends Typically, the damaged hair fiber splits into two or three strands As hair grows, the natural protective oils of the scalp can fail to reach the ends of the hair Infrequent trims and lack of hydrating treatments can intensify split ends

Nutrition and your hair Genetics and health play a role in hair health The living part of hair is under the scalp skin and the entire follicle and root are fed by a vein (where the blood carries nutrients to the follicle/root) Health concerns of any kind from stress/trauma, medications, chronic medical conditions, heavy metals in waters and food, smoking, etc. can affect the hair, its growth, and its appearance When the body is under strain, it reprioritizes its processes (vital Organs are the first priority)

Your diet and your hair Generally, eating a full diet that contains protein, fruits, vegetables, fat, and carbohydrates is important (several vitamins and minerals require fat in order to be delivered or absorbed by the body) Any deficiency will typically show first in the hair A mild case of anemia (iron deficiency) can cause excess shedding and overall hair loss Among others, the B group of vitamins are the most important for healthy hair, especially biotin B5 (pantothenic acid) gives hair strength and shine and helps prevent hair loss and graying B6 helps prevent dandruff and can be found in fortified cereals, egg yolks, and liver Vitamin B12 helps prevent the loss of hair and can be found in fish, eggs, chicken, milk

Hair growth Scalp hair grows, on average, at a rate of about 1.25 cm/month Shampoos, vitamins, and other supplements have not been shown to noticeably change this rate Hair growth rate also depends upon what phase in the cycle of hair growth one is actually in; there are three phases

What affects hair growth The speed of hair growth varies based on: Genetics Gender Age Hormones May be reduced by nutrient deficiency (i.e., anorexia, anemia, zinc deficiency) and hormonal fluctuations (i.e., menopause, polycystic ovaries, thyroid disease)

DRY HAIR? Prevent a dry scalp and dull hair color: Omega-3 fatty acids Protein Vitamin B12 Iron Dark green vegetables contain high amounts of vitamins A and C Help with production of sebum and provide a natural hair conditioner

OTHER NUTRIENTS FOR SCALP HEALTH Legumes provide protein to promote hair growth and also contain iron, zinc, and biotin Protein deficiencies or low-quality protein can produce weak and brittle hair, and can eventually result in loss of hair color Dairy products are good sources of calcium, a key component for hair growth

Did you know? When an product (hair care product, skin care, make-up, etc) lists the ingredient “perfume” or “fragrance,” that one word alone can be the combination of up to 6,000 different ingredients/chemicals

Basic hair care tips Let your hair dry naturally as much as possible Try to minimize the use of any heat (curlers, straighteners) and style it naturally Instead of a curler, put your hair in braids overnight Avoid over-brushing Use a wide tooth comb or your fingers to brush your hair, minimizing breakage Be careful how you towel dry your hair

Thank you for coming Questions Sharing of knowledge