Hair Cutting Reference Points are used to establish design guidelines and create the same haircut over and over again

Reference Points Highest point of head Easily located by placing comb on top of head; comb will rest on highest point Place comb flat on sides and back of head Corners are located where the combs meet

Reference Points cont. The bone that protrudes at the base of the head To locate place comb vertically against head; where comb leaves the head you will find the occipital bone Place comb vertically against head where comb leaves head is the parietal ridge

Areas of the Head Mark where the surface changes These points are used to establish design lines Finds a balance within design so both sides are even Develops ability to create same hair cut over again TOP- locate parietal ridge. You can find hair that grows on the top Part hair at parietal ridge go all around Front – divide hair from parietal ridge to back of ear

Areas of the Head Sides –all hair from back of ear forward and below parietal ridge Bang Area- Fringe –triangular section; begins at apex ends at 4 corners Crown- area behind apex and above parietal ridge Back – from apex to back of ear; hair falls naturally behind the ear Nape –part of the neck; Consists of hair below occipital bone

Sections of the Head

Lines and Angles Line- thin continuous mark used as a guide Angle- space between the two lines of surfaces that intersect at a given point Horizontal- add weight to hairstyle Low elevation hair cuts Diagonal- located between horizontal and vertical: blending Vertical- up and down opposite horizontal Remove weight to graduate hair cuts

Beveling AKA Stacking: technique using diagonal lines to create angles by cutting ends of hair with slight increase or decrease in length

Real Life Examples

Elevation: Haircutting Angles Elevation is lifting to an angle or degree from head when cutting Control during cutting Put hair in uniform sections Each sec. divides into small subsections called partings

More elevation = more graduation Blunt haircut: no elevation 0-degrees Example: Bob or one-length haircut More elevation = more graduation Means Layers 90’: Below 90’ building weight Above 90’ remove weight Most common 45’ and 90’

Elevations as Cutting Angles Builds weight Remove weight

Cutting Line Vertical cut line Angle at which fingers are held when cutting hair to create shape Aka cutting position, finger angle Horizontal, vertical, or diagonal Horizontal

Layered shape: 90’ w. vertical cutting line 45’ graduations with a diagonal cutting line

Guidelines Section of hair that determines the length Perimeter- outer line or interior, inner line or internal line of the cut Stationary guideline does not move; all sections combed back to meet it: blunt or over-direction Traveling guideline moves as the hair cut progresses: layers or graduation

Overdirection Combing hair away from its natural fall position Used in graduated and layered haircuts Creates a length increase in haircut

Client Consultation Face shape Profile Hairline Growth pattern Density and texture Wave pattern Where do you want hair to fall: chin or shoulder length Remember weight and volume draw attention to a certain area Remember: hair shrinks about ½ inch more if curly

Density and Texture; consider during consultation

Haircutting Tools Shears or Scissors: steel Texture shears Razors Used to cut blunt or straight lines in the hair Can also: slide-cut, point-cut, or other texturizing techniques Texture shears Mainly used to remove bulk Sometimes called thinning shears, tapering shears, or notching shears Razors Straight or feather blades Used to achieve a softer effect Can be used with or without guards Clippers Mainly used for short haircuts, short tapers, fades, and flat tops Can be used with or without a guard Trimmers Smaller versions of clippers Also known as edgers Mainly used to remove unwanted hair at the neckline and around the ears Create crisp outlines

Tools cont’d Sectioning Clips Wide tooth Comb Barber Comb Styling Comb Either plastic or metal Jaw/butterfly or duckbill Wide tooth Comb Mainly used to detangle the hair Rarely used when performing a haircut Barber Comb Mainly used for close tapers on the nape and sides with clipper over comb Narrow end allows shears to get very close to head Styling Comb Called “all-purpose” comb or cutting comb Used for most haircutting procedures Can be 6 to 8 inches long and has fine teeth at one end and wider teeth at the other

Forged Shears Made by working metal to a finished shape by hammering or pressing Metal is heated to temps between 2,100 F and 2,300 F Metal is then cooled in water and repeated until process is complete Creates a more durable shear than casting Easier to repair if dropped or bent

Cast Steel Molten steel is poured into a mold Metal cools and takes the shape of the mold Disadvantage: is that sometimes tiny air bubbles develop in molding process If dropped, can cause shears to shatter If bent, cannot be bent back without risk of breaking Very Brittle Positive: Less expensive

Hard as Steel Steel is manufactured in 3 main countries USA Japan Germany Must have a Rockwell hardness of at least: 56 or 57 (Ideal) 63 is too hard and could break if dropped! The harder the steel, the sharper it will stay!

to lower your shoulder & elbow and straighten your wrist Forged or Cast Steel Best Handle: 3 types Opposing grip -forces thumb under ring finger: creates stress Offset grip –moves thumb forward; rest below and ring finger and middle finger Full offset or crane grip most anatomically correct; pos. thumb under index Forged higher quality Must be 440- A steel at least Steel gets harder as you go up 440-C better than 440-A edges last longer Swivel thumb allows you to lower your shoulder & elbow and straighten your wrist

Parts of a Shear Finger Tang Bumper

Holding the Shear Holding the Shears Place thumb in bottom or moving blade Place ring finger in the still or top blade Rest index and middle finger on the shank Practice opening and closing the bottom blade Adjust tension Lubricate w/oil extends life Immerse in epa registered disinfectant

Fitting the Shears: Should be good fit; custom finger fitting systems

Ask Yourself: Are these shears a good fit for me? *Are they comfortable? *Do they feel too lose or too big? Remember: You need to be comfortable with your own shears!!

Palming the Shear Remove thumb to cut Shear is held in ring finger and palm Allowing the dominant hand to hold the comb to prepare next section to be cut To cut transfer comb back to thumb and index finger of non dominant hand

Blade Edges Convex Beveled Edge Very sharp edge Smooth and quiet Glides through hair easily Best overall edge for hairstylists Great for all kinds of cutting techniques Beveled Edge Dull edge style Not smooth, can be noisy Normally on lower-quality shears Not recommended for the professional Not recommended for prof. salon use

The Edges Convex Edge Beveled Edge

Shear Maintenance Daily cleaning and Lubrication Use soft towel saturated with scissor oil Wipe inside of blades Maintains the life of the shear Daily Tension Adjustment Make sure your tension isn’t too loose or too tight Use your adjustment knob Weekly cleaning Open shears to 90 degrees and loosen tension knob Remove all hair and debris with paper towel Oil the space between the blades Disinfecting Must disinfect after each client Sharpening As needed

Types of Texture Shears Chunking shear (5-9 Teeth) Great for taking out big sections The wider the space between the teeth, the more the hair removed Texturizing shear (14-19 Teeth) Adds increased blending Thinning shear (26-30 Teeth) Most universally used, consistent reduction of bulk Closer together the teeth, the more blended the cut Blending shear (38-50 Teeth) Great for scissor-over the comb cutting

The more teeth, the less dramatic results = Thinning Shear Chunking Shear Texturizing Shear If you are new to the cutting, use either a 28 tooth or 40 tooth shear! The more teeth, the less dramatic results = Safe!! Blending Shear

????????????????????????? Describe the blade that does the actual cutting Describe how to clean a pair of shears When do you palm your shear? What does the term dominant hand refer to? Why is important for a shear to fit properly

Razor Versatile tool used for entire haircut, detailing or texturizing Two methods for holding razor (demo) Straight handle L shape Razor must be palmed when combing

All Purpose Comb Both wide and fine teeth are used in haircutting Wide teeth- combing and parting Fine teeth- comb section before cutting; provide more tension; useful around ears, hairline and for curly hair

Tension Amount of pressure applied when combing and holding a subsection Pulling or stretching subsection Ranges –minimum to maximum Control tension w/fingers when holding subsection Consistent tension is important for even results Maximum on straight hair Minimum - curl or wavy hair; shrinks ½ -2 inches; also with hair that has strong growth patterns around ears and hairlines

Posture: Body Position Position the Client Sitting up straight Legs Uncrossed Move the chair Turning (swivel) Raising/lowering Center you weight When standing Keep your knees slightly bent but not locked Don’t bend at the waist, bend one knee! When sitting Keep both feet on the floor Work in Front of your section Stand or sit directly in front of the are you are cutting

Safety in Haircutting

Hand/Cutting Positions Cutting over your fingers On top of your knuckles Used most often when cutting uniform or increased layers Cutting below the fingers When cutting a blunt haircut or a heavier graduated haircut Cutting below your fingers or above your knuckles Cutting palm to palm

The 4 Basic Cuts are the foundation for all haircuts Basic Haircuts The 4 Basic Cuts are the foundation for all haircuts Blunt Wedge Layered Long Layered

Basic Haircuts Blunt- One length haircut, ends hang together Creates a weight line or “visual line” Zero-degree elevation cut or No Elevation Cut Stationary Guide Cutting line can be horizontal, vertical, rounded, or diagonal Excellent for finer and thinner hair

Basic Haircuts Graduated- Layered- Graduated shape or wedge Results from using tension, low to medium elevation, or over-direction Most common elevation 45 degrees Ends of the hair appear to be “stacked” Layered- Graduated effect achieved by cutting with elevation or over-direction Generally have less weight than graduated haircuts Ends appear farther apart Can be created with a stationary or traveling guide

Basic Haircuts Long layered- Cut at 180 degrees Gives more volume to hairstyles Can be combined with other haircuts Shorter layers at the top, with increasingly longer layers at the bottom

Tips in Haircutting Always take consistent and clean partings Watch your “danger zones” Always use consistent tension Pay Attention to head position

Tips Continued Maintain an even amount of moisture in the hair Always work with your guideline Always cross-check the haircut Use the mirror to see your elevation Check both sides

The Blunt Haircut Head should be upright and straight Hold the sections either with fingers or using the comb If hair is past the shoulders, use minimal tension For very long hair, have the client stand while you sit on a cutting stool

Basic Blunt Haircut zero degree elevation

Other Blunt Haircuts The classic A-line Bob Blunt cut with bangs Diagonal cutting line Blunt cut with bangs Horizontal cutting lines On longer hair use very little tension Blunt cut on curly hair The hair will naturally “graduate” itself when dry Classic blunt-cut pageboy or “bowl” Perimeter is curved, using a combination of horizontal and curved lines

A-Line Bob Diagonal Cutting Line

Blunt Cut with Blunt Bangs HORIZONTAL HORIZONTAL

Blunt Curly Hair Naturally Graduates when Dry Horizontal

Pageboy or “Bowl” Curved lines

Graduated Haircuts Stacked 45 Degrees Wedge Low Elevation

Tips for Graduated Haircuts Typically a center part Can use side part or bangs Stationary Guideline and Traveling Weight lines can look diagonal or rounded Use of overdirection

Layered Haircut Cut the hair with elevation 90 degrees and above Have less weight than graduated haircuts Ends of hair appear farther apart Use traveling interior guide, But may use stationary guide or both

Hair appears soft and rounded Layered Haircuts Hair appears soft and rounded Vertical sections fall softly No corners No build-up weight

Types of Layered Cuts Cutting the hair much shorter, 1” or less Will create “Pixie” or “Caesar”

Men’s Haircuts If you keep your fingers straight and vertical and DO NOT follow the head form you will create a square shape

Shag Cutting uniform layers on top Elevating sides and back straight up 180o Blend to top lengths

Tips Cut the interior first (layers) For short hair, best results are on medium to thick density Thin hair will show scalp if cut too short Coarse hair sticks out if cut shorter than 3 inches Want to leave thickness at the bottom? Keep top sections longer If hair is past shoulders, use slide cutting to connect top to the back

Long Layered Cut Hair is overdirected Held at 180 degrees Length is left long!! This is great for clients who want movement but also want to keep their long hair

Cutting Curly Hair Curly hair behaves in it’s own way! Behaves differently after it is dried You will get very different results with curly vs. straight even when using same angles and degrees Curly blunt cuts will appear graduated when dry

Tips for Cutting Curly Hair Use the graphic organizer to chart tips when cutting curly hair with your partner!

Fringe Detail The word “fringe” comes from England Much of our hair history comes from here Hair that lies between the 2 front corners Outer corners of the eye Need to know the client’s distribution\ Every client is different Only cut the hair that falls in the fringe area!

Let’s Look at Types of Bangs! Layered Bang Use a stationary guide Elevate hair at 90 degrees straight up Short bang Makes a strong statement Combined with a shorter layered haircut Low elevation Line can be curved

Long Bang Wispy Bang Very long Cut with slide-cutting Creates wispy effect Wispy Bang Only a few pieces Don’t cut all the hair in bang area Small portion Might even use a razor

Just remember….. The bang can be blended or not If you are working with a blunt haircut and the bangs are blunt…. Don’t blend If working with layered or graduated haircut…… May want to blend with sides and/or the top

Razor Cutting

Any haircut can be done with razor Can cut horizontal, vertical, and diagonal The guide is above the fingers Scissor cutting is generally below the fingers Two Methods for cutting Razor is parallel Razor is held at 45 degree angle Use only 1.3 of the blade to make small strokes If you don’t hold the hair at an angle, you will begin to “push” the hair and lose control When cutting a section Move from top to bottom, or side to side

Razor Cutting Tips Always make sure the hair is in good condition Don’t use on curly hair, coarse wiry hair, or over-processed, damaged hair Always use a guard Always use a new blade A dull blade will put stress on the hair and is uncomfortable to the client Keep hair wet Can make the hair frizz Painful to the client Always work the razor at an angle Never push through the hair

Texturizing with the Razor Removing Weight Use the razor to thin out the ends of the hair Tapers the ends of the section Can be used on any area of the haircut Free-hand slicing Used throughout the section or at the ends Should be done on wet hair Holding razor vertical = less hair removed Hold razor horizontal = more hair removed

Free-Hand Slicing with Razor Produces a softer perimeter when used on ends of hair Or creates separation throughout the shape

Razor Over Comb Using razor over comb: Removes or soften weight lines Causes hair to lie closer to scalp Great in the nape area Used mainly on shorter haircuts Comb is placed in the hair teeth down Razor follows the comb

Razor Rotation

Scissor Techniques Slide Cutting Cutting or thinning the hair by gliding the fingers and shears along the edge of hair Removes Length Blends Shorter Lengths to Longer Lengths Texturizing ** Perfect for layering long hair and keeping weight around the perimeter Two Methods Hold the subsection with tension beyond the cutting line Place shears on top of knuckles and both hands slide simultaneously out the length to the ends

Scissor Techniques Scissor-Over-Comb A barbering technique that crossed over into cosmetology Used to create very short tapers Allows you to cut from extremely short lengths to long lengths Best to use on dry hair The comb acts as your guide

Scissor-Over-Comb How to Hold the hair in place with the comb Use the tip of the shears to remove length Comb and shear move up the head together One blade stays still and remains parallel to the “spine” of the comb Cut with an even rhythm Stopping causes visible “steps” in the hair or a weight line

Steps for Scissor-Over-Comb

Tips Work with small areas (no wider than the blade) Always start at the hairline and work upward to the length Cross-check by working on the area diagonally Use a barber comb to cut very close in areas such as: Sideburns and hairlines

Texturizing with Shears Remove excess bulk without removing length Can also add effect within the haircut Can be used to: add volume remove volume make hair “move” blend one are into another

Point Cutting Performed on the ends of the hair using tips, or points, of the shears Can be done on wet or dry hair Hold the hair 1 to 2 inches from the ends Turn your wrist so the tips of the scissors are pointing into the ends A more vertical angle removes less hair The more diagonal the shears, the more hair is removed

Notching Another version of point cutting More aggressive and creates “chunkier” effect Done towards the ends Hold section 3 inches from the ends Cut the hair 2 inches from the ends On very thick hair, repeat motion every 1/8 inch On medium to fine hair, place notches farther apart

Free-Hand Notching Still use the tips of the shears Don’t slide the shears through the hair Randomly snip out hair Usually used on the interior rather than ends Works well on curly hair Don’t want to add too many layers but want to release the curl and remove density

Other Techniques Slithering Slicing Carving Also known as effilating Thins hair to graduated lengths Slicing Removes bulk and adds movement through the hair Use the portion of the blades near the pivot Use wet or dry hair When working on surface of the hair, it’s best to work on dry hair Carving Best on short hair Creates visual separation in the hair The more horizontal your scissors, the more hair you remove

Thinning To remove bulk Removes weight without removing length Can be done vertically or horizontally

Clippers and Trimmers Battery operated or electric tool Uses 2 moving blades held in place by a metal plate with teeth Mainly used for short haircuts Can create tapers Sit very close to the head, get longer toward the top

Clippers Clippers Guard Attachments Can be used with or without guards Come in different shapes and sizes Guard Attachments Allow you to cut all hair evenly to that exact length Sizes range from 1/8” to 1” wide Can be used in different combos

Basic Care for Clippers Clean clippers and trimmers after each use with a clipper brush Apply one drop of clipper oil to the top of the blades while the clipper is running Disinfect the detachable blade and heel after each use Disinfect each guard as well

Basic Clipper Techniques Clipper-over-comb Allows you to cut the hair very close to the scalp Can create a flat top or square shape Use in same manner as scissor-over-comb Except clippers move across the comb The angle that you hold comb = how much hair you cut

Clipper Cuts with Attachments Will Leave 1 -2” Quick and easy way to create short haircuts Allows you to create many different shapes Can switch guards as you move around and up the head Leaves 1/8” to 1” Will Leave 1/8”

Clipper Cuts

Tips for Clipper Cutting Always work against the natural growth patterns, especially in the nape Always work with small sections The area should be no wider than 3 inches Remember: the angle of the comb determines the length of the hair left If the comb is parallel, you will cut the hair to the same length as you move up the head If the comb is angled, you will begin to increase the length up the head

Using the Trimmers Used around the ears: Used around the neckline: Use just the outer edge Arc the edger up and around the ear When working behind the ear, use the comb to hold the hair in place, continue arcing comb Used around the neckline: Clean up hair on the neck that grows below design line Helps to create more defined lines around the perimeter

Trimming Facial Hair Clippers and trimmers can be used When removing length, use the comb to control the hair Can use length guard attachments May want to keep a pair of shears just for facial hair Facial hair is coarse and can dull the blades Always remember to ask the client if he would like you to remove any excess hair Ears!!

Sectioning Quadrants Part straight from bang section to nape Part from ear to ear across top of head Make sure partings are even and neat

O Degree Elevation Use wide-tooth part of Comb to section ½” horizontal partings Cut the hair straight across Hold at 0° at all time until section is complete

Sides of Haircut Use back sections as a guide Make ½” horizontal partings Hold hair at 0° Complete haircut holding at this angle

The Slide Cutting Technique is used to remove the bulk of the hair without losing the line of the cut..