Chapter 5 Developing a Negative

Negative to Positive Process 35mm Negative 8 X 10 Print

Negative to Positive-Workflow 1. Chose appropriate film and ISO setting 2. Expose the film to ensure shadow detail 3. Develop the film for optimal highlight detail 4. Carefully process, wash, dry, and sleeve film POSITIVE (PRINTS) 1. Contact negatives for a positive print reference 2. Carefully select negatives that are in focus, have detail in shadows and highlights 3. Enlarge negatives using exposure to control highlights, 4. Use enlarger filtration to control shadows and contrast.

The Negative: Step # 1 Choose a film speed Choice of sensitivity 100 is daylight film 800 more sensitive for very low light Relationship to grain 100 very little grain-fine detail 800 lots of grain-less fine detail ISO changes meter reading

The Negative: Step #2 Expose for shadow detail To get good detail in your shadows, which is very desirable, we need to be sure we meter those shadows. That means the shadow would be medium gray. We want the shadows, so me can step down 1 or 2 stops. That is, if our meter shows shutter between 60 and 125 then take the 125. This allows a little less light to the film and will darken However, to get the shadows looking like shadows,

Exposure for the shadows Almost all detail in the darker, or shadow areas of the print, is controlled by the amount of exposure given to the negative. Detail in the highlights, although effected by exposure, can also be easily controlled by altering film development. This ability to control shadows and highlights allows tone and contrast control.

Exposure To get a rich image with realistic tones, dark but detailed shadows, and bright, delicate highlights, you need to expose your film correctly

Exposure The ability to produce a fine print is first determined by sufficient exposure to render detail in the shadow areas of the print.

A correct exposure on negative film

Overexposed Too much light has reached the film Highlights are blocked up by too much density and will print pure white after losing important details Contrast level will be too high.

Underexposed Not enough light has reached the film Shadow areas are void of detail because insufficient density was rendered Print will be very low in contrast, visible grain will increase, shadows lifeless

Correct Exposure Overexposed Underexposed Thumbnail Light Shutter too slow or f/stop too large Shutter too fast or f/stop too small When the shutter is faster, less light hits the film and the negative is underexposed. When the shutter is open longer that 18% gray, the Overexposed Thumbnail Light Print need more time Underexposed Thumbnail Dark Print needs less time Correct

When exposed correctly, contact sheet looks like this

Film Curve - reciprocity

Reciprocity Failure Films respond predictably to exposure through a wide range of shutter speeds. Long exposures or extremely short exposures cause the film to fail to respond as calculated. If the exposure is 1 second give it 2 or 4 or more!!!!

The Zone System X IX VIII VII VI V IV III II I The zero here is middle or 18% gray. II I

Zone System Exposure

How film responds to light Recording an image on film involves a reaction between light and silver halide crystals. A photo-chemical reaction is needed to reveal the latent image.

The Negative: Step #3 Developing the film Highlight detail is controlled primarily by the development. (assuming correct exposure) Control is accomplished by Time Temperature Agitation (of the film during development) Dilution of the chemistry

Black and white film layers Surface Emulsion Adhesive Film base Anti-halation coating

Silver Halide Crystals Crystal are spread through the gelatin of the film emulsion. They are a compound of silver plus a halogen such as bromine, iodine or chlorine. Charged silver ions are effected by light and combine with impurities within the crystal to build areas of density.

Black and White Development Millions of the crystals are exposed converting the silver metal into areas of density where light strikes the film. In areas where no light strikes the film there is no silver density. In other areas there is a mixture of heavy and light density creating mid-tones. Development is the chemical process of building up this density.

Processing

Processing Steps Pre wash Saturate film emulsion Development Converts latent image Stop Arrest the development Fixer Dissolves silver halide crystals Clearing Washing aid to remove fixer Wash Remove all residue Wetting agent Prevent water spots Dry Clean dust free slow drying time

Step 1 Look for a button on the bottom of your camera Remove the film from your camera Look for a button on the bottom of your camera Hold button while winding until no tension in the winder Pull the winder and back should pop up Remove film Either replace the film or close the back of the camera

Loading the film Light proof bag You will need Light proof bag Under shelf along wall with refrigerator Silver on the outside Double zipper Bottle opener Scissors Tank and reel Film cartridge

What’s next Use bottle cap opener to open end of film cartridge In a bag Use bottle cap opener to open end of film cartridge Remove film from cartridge Cut film leader and attach to inside of steel reel Roll onto reel Place reel into steel container Put on the plastic cap Remove from bag

Chemicals to process film The first thing is to check the time and temperature chart. That is essential to a good development. Developer ½ developer and ½ water Stop bath Water Fixer Fill with fixer only, don’t dilute 10 minute wash Wetting agent Best to use distilled water

Dry film 20 minutes in dryer or 1 hour in box Cut film 5 prints wide Put into archive sleeve

Developer D-76 This is a time and temperature chart. They are on the wall in room 9. Arista 100 ISO 35mm film Water Temp   65 degrees 68 degrees 70 degrees 72 degrees 75 degrees Normal 9 1/2 min. 8 1/2 min. 7 1/2 min. 7 min. 6 min.

What happens? Developer Free metallic silver from the emulsion’s exposed crystals to form an image Metallic silver forms the dark part of the image Called silver halides At this point you can see the latent image on the film if you opened the canister. However, DON’T do that. It will ruin your negative.

After stop bath Fixer Silver halides will continue to turn dark if exposed to light Fixer stops this process by dissolving the crystals 5 minutes to fix Too much longer and image will bleach Too short or weak fixer the image will get darker when exposed to light

Develop too long Highlights become more dense. Increase in contrast. The image Highlights become more dense. Increase in contrast. Later you can use this to create a different print. Temperature affects outcome See chart Too cold the developer works poorly Too hot the gelatin can separate from the film

Agitation Gently agitation moves fresh chemicals over the film/emulsion Too little may cause chemicals to stop working Too little or too strong can cause uneven development Agitate 5 out of every 30 seconds In more than 1 direction. Put canister down in between agitations.

After fixing Film must be thoroughly washed. Remaining silver will darken/stain the film

Best Outcome When properly exposed and correctly developed, film… Makes printing/scanning much easier Begin by following the manufacturer’s recommendations Later you can may adjust exposure and developing

Exposure (more later) When there is no single subject and if you don’t have a gray card, expose for the shadows where you want detail. (develop for the highlights). In every case expose for the subject! Developing times have little effect on shadows Developing times have a great effect on the highlights For us…take shadows into account when setting your exposure if you want detail in the shadows Follow the directions (for now)when developing

Last Step The final step is making a contact sheet to see how your negatives look as thumbnails If you exposed each frame correctly, each thumbnail will appear clearly, without enhancement. First run a test strip on your archival sheet. Find the correct exposure time for your contact sheet Develop your contact sheet

Quiz review 1st thing you need when you are going to develop you film is the time and temperature chart. You can first see an image when in the developer, even though you won’t see it until the whole process is done. You can look at your film AFTER the fixer step.

More Quiz Review Density is a negative or print is The amount of silver built up on the surface The overall lightness and darkness of either the print or negative Is controlled by the exposure

Review Write the full stop shutter speeds from 1 second to 1/1000 sec. 1 2 4 8 15 30 60 125 250 500 1000 Which end is more light? Less light?

Next Step Today Watch video on film development Develop your own film-if you are ready.