Chapter 3 Common Chemicals

Among the products included in this definition are skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup preparations, cleansing shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, and deodorants, as well as any substance intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.

Source: http://research.unc.edu/endeavors/spr2005/soap.php Soap Fat + Base Mode of Action One end = polar, dissolve in water Other end = non-polar, dissolve in oil Surfactant = stabilize suspension of non-polar oil in water In hard water leaves mineral deposits Source: http://research.unc.edu/endeavors/spr2005/soap.php

Soap Dissected Sodium tallowate: soap made from animal fat Ingredients: sodium tallowate, palm kernelate, aqua, parfum, stearic acid, glycerin, sodium chloride, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium etidronate, FD&C Blue No. 4, FD&C Yellow No. 5. Sodium tallowate: soap made from animal fat Palm kernelate: soap made from palm kernel oil Aqua: water Parfum: mixture of natural and synthetic fragrances Stearic acid: fatty acid, improve soap texture Glycerin: moisturizer, keep soap from drying out Sodium chloride: improve soap texture Tetrasodium EDTA: chelating agent, prevent soap scum Tetrasodium etidronate: preservative FD&C Blue No. 4 and Yellow No. 5: artificial colors

Detergents Synthetic Contents Non-biodegradable detergents banned No mineral deposits, even in hard water Contents Synthetic surfactant Examples: Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), sodium laryl/laureth sulfate, benzalkonium chloride Stabilizers Fragrance

Softeners & Bleaches Fabric Softeners Bleaches Layer on clothes 1 molecule thick Lubrication Electrically conductive (cancel out static electricity) Bleaches Sodium hypochlorite (NaClO) Oxidation of color molecules in stains Brighteners (Color-safe “bleach”) reflect blue light, clothes look white

Source: www.visitwaupaca.com Cleaning Products Acids Toilet bowl cleaner (HCl, citric acid) Cleaners containing vinegar Bases Oven cleaner Drain cleaner Glass cleaner (ammonia) Bleach Source: www.visitwaupaca.com

Source: http://www.lyndhurstnaturals.com/Naturals2.aspx Cosmetics: Lotions Emollients: soften the skin by coating and protecting Moisturizer: form a physical barrier to hinder evaporation Sunscreens Humectants: hold water by hydrogen bonding Source: http://www.lyndhurstnaturals.com/Naturals2.aspx

Lotions Dissected Aqua: water, adds moisture directly to skin Glycerin: moisturizer, softener Cetearyl alcohol: emollient, emulsifier, stabilizer Petrolatum: moisturizer, emollient Mineral oil: moisturizer Ceteareth-20: emulsifier, surfactant Dimethicone: moisturizer, anti-foaming agent Carbomer: emulsion stabilizer Methylparaben: preservative Sodium Hydroxide: pH adjuster Titanium dioxide: white colorant, coverage, reflectant Octyl dimethyl PABA: UV absorber

Images source: www.wikipedia.com Sun Protection Ultraviolet light 3 “near UV” wavelength ranges Therapeutic uses Psoriasis, vitiligo, eczema Cancer treatment (phototherapy) Dangers DNA damage Cancer Ageing Images source: www.wikipedia.com

Sun Protection Cosmetics Body’s defenses Sunscreens Sunblocks SPF During sun exposure After sun exposure Image source: http://msnbcmedia2.msn.com/j/msnbc/Components/Photos/060605/060605_sunscreen_vmed_1p.widec.jpg

Cosmetics: Other Skin Care Exfoliant: remove surface skin cells Chemical Mechanical Astringent: constrict pore openings Antiperspirant: retard perspiration Complexes of aluminum and zirconium Acne Salicylic acid, triclosan, benzoyl peroxide: antibiotics, can be very drying Anti-aging Alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids: chemical exfoliants

Cosmetics: Makeup Mascara: oils, waxes, colors, thickeners Lipstick: oils, waxes, colors, moisturizers, often with UV protection Powders: pigment, binders, mineral powders (aluminum, titanium, zinc) Foundation: oils, colors, pH balancers, emulsifiers, surfactants All have preservatives! Source: http://www.commessuniversity.com/images/Nala%20in%20makeup%201.jpg

Source: http://www.webhealthcenter.com/general/..%5Cimages%5Coral1.gif Oral Care Toothpaste Sodium dodecyl (laurel) sulfate: detergent Artificial sweeteners, flavors Fluoride Abrasive Mouthwash Antimicrobials Surfactants fluoride Source: http://www.webhealthcenter.com/general/..%5Cimages%5Coral1.gif

Source: http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_73.htm Hair Care Composition of hair Protein Shape is determined by hydrogen bonds, salt bridges and disulfide bonds Only root of hair is alive: all visible hair is dead Slightly acidic Hair damage: brushing/combing, blow drying, environmental attack, chemical damage Source: http://www.pg.com/science/haircare/hair_twh_73.htm

Hair Care: Hair Products Shampoo Mild detergent (surfactant) Most are gentle enough to not harm hair structure Conditioner Coats the hair shaft with moisturizers Dimethicone, silk proteins, collagen: smooth hair shaft Hair care myths and facts

Hair Care: Hair Products Hairspray Semisolid organic polymers that form sticky resin on hair Dissolved in a solvent that evaporates Perms Reducing agent breaks disulfide bonds in hair Oxidizing agent allows bonds to reform with hair in a new shape Depilatories Strongly basic—destroy peptide bonds in hair & skin Source: http://www.turbostipend.com/bileta/hairspray.jpg

Hair Care: Hair Products Hair dyes Hair is naturally colored by melanins Coloring: benzene-amine compounds soak into hair shaft Bleaching: hydrogen peroxide oxidizes natural pigments (melanins) into colorless products Avoid contact with skin! Source: http://www.west-coast-beauty.com/unjimages/veroChromeColor/tube.jpg

Source: http://www.rohmhaas.com/images/2ndlevel/i_percare.jpg You The Consumer Types of products are often the same! Beware of outrageous claims Beware of unnecessarily expensive products Read the ingredients and compare Be a well-informed consumer Source: http://www.rohmhaas.com/images/2ndlevel/i_percare.jpg