Cleansing creams and Lotions Chapter 5 week 11 Cleansing creams and Lotions   Cosmetics for make-up

History of Cleaning Many years ago and even today in the third world, clothes are cleaned by beating on rocks in a river or stream. Some plants such as soapworts or soapberries contain saponins, which produce a soapy lather. Wood ashes contain potassium and sodium carbonate, which form alkaline solutions in water with some detergent properties. Sodium carbonate is still sold today as washing soda.

Fat + Base → Soap Soap is made by reacting animal fat or vegetable oil with base (NaOH).

Fat + Lye → Soap Soap works because one end of the molecule is hydrophilic (water attracting) and the other end is hydrophobic (water repelling).

Fat + Lye → Soap The hydrophobic “tail” dissolves into oil, leaving the hydrophilic “head” on the outside. This spherical structure is called a micelle.

Fat + Lye → Soap Oil and water form an emulsion, with the soap acting as the emulsifying agent. Any substance, such as soap, that stabilizes the suspension of nonpolar substances in water is called a surfactant (surface-active) agent.

Fat + Lye → Soap Disadvantage of Soap Water that contains calcium, magnesium, and iron ions is called hard water. These ions will react with and precipitate soap, reducing its effectiveness.

Fat + Lye → Soap Water Softeners Additives such as washing soda (Na2CO3 . 10 H2O) and trisodium phosphate (TSP = Na3PO4) will raise the pH of water and precipitate calcium and magnesium ions.

Fat + Lye → Soap Water Softeners Water softening tanks are also used in homes and businesses. They contain a polymeric material that hold the calcium, magnesium, and iron ions and exchange them with sodium ions.

Synthetic Detergents During World War II, the raw materials for soap production became scarce. Synthetic detergents were developed with cleansing action similar to soap, but without the negative effects of hard water.

Synthetic Detergents ABS Detergents: Nonbiodegradable The first synthetic detergents were alkylbenzenesulfonates (ABS) detergents. Unfortunately, they are nonbiodegradable and produced a foam that appeared on natural lakes and rivers as well as in wells and sewage treatment plants. ABS detergents were banned and replaced by biodegradable detergents.

Synthetic Detergents ABS Detergents: Nonbiodegradable

Synthetic Detergents LAS Detergents: Biodegradable Linear alkylsufonates (LAS) detergents have linear chains of carbon atoms that can be broken down by microorganisms.

Laundry Detergent Formulations Laundry detergents contain a variety of compounds designed for specific functions. These compounds are classified as surfactants, builders, and brighteners.

Laundry Detergent Formulations Surfactants emulsify the soil and oils. They can be either anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric. Amphoteric surfactants carry both a positive and negative charge on the same molecule. A betaine is an example of an amphoteric surfactant. CH3(CH2)nCH2NH2+CH2COO-

Laundry Detergent Formulations Builders are added to detergent formulas to increase the detergency of the surfactant. Examples include sodium citrate (Na3C6H5O7), sodium tripolyphosphate (Na5P3O10), and sodium hexametaphosophate. These compounds act by causing the sequestration of the calcium and magnesium ions.

Laundry Detergent Formulations Brighteners are added to detergent formulations to make clothing appear bright and new.

Laundry Detergent Formulations Liquid laundry detergents have captured much of the market in recent years. Liquid laundry detergents can either be built formulations with sodium citrate, sodium carbonate, or zeolites, or they can be unbuilt formulations high in surfactants and have no builders.

Dishwashing Detergents Liquid dishwashing detergents, for handwashing, usually contain one or more surfactants, such as LAS or cocamido DEA [CH3(CH2)nCON(CH2CH2OH)2]. Dishwashing detergents for automatic dishwashers are usually strongly alkaline. They can contain sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium carbonate, sodium metasilicate, and a bleach, along with a small amount of surfactant. Sodium hydroxide may also be present.

Fabric Softeners: Quaternary Ammonium Salts Quaternary ammonium salts with two long alkyl chains are used as fabric softeners. They attach to clothing fibers, forming a layer one molecule thick, which gives the clothing a smooth flexible softness.

Laundry Bleaches: Whiter Whites Bleaches are oxidizing agents that react with colored stains on fabrics. The more common bleaches are chlorine bleaches containing sodium hypochlorite (NaOCl). Oxygen-releasing bleaches contain either sodium percarbonate (2 Na2CO3 . 3 H2O2) or sodium perborate (NaBO2 . H2O2). These bleaches liberate the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide in hot water.

All-Purpose Cleaning Products A number of all-purpose cleaning products are commonly found in the home. These include household ammonia solutions, baking soda, and common vinegar.

Special-Purpose Cleaners Toilet bowl cleaners are usually acidic materials to remove calcium carbonate deposits. Scouring powders contain abrasive materials like silica (SiO2). They may also contain a surfactant and bleach. Glass cleaners contain isopropyl alcohol, ammonia, and sometimes vinegar. Drain cleaners usually contain sodium hydroxide to saponify grease. Some contain bits of aluminum that react with the NaOH to release hydrogen gas to agitate the clog. Many contain bleach to degrade hair. Oven cleaners contain NaOH to cut the greasy material on oven walls.

Organic Solvents in the Home Organic solvents are available for removing paint, adhesives, waxes, and other materials. Most are volatile and flammable.

Waxes Waxes are esters of long-chained fatty acids and long-chained alcohols. Paraffin wax is a mixture of long-chained hydrocarbons. Waxes serve both plants and animals as protective coatings. Many natural waxes are being replaced by silicones.

Cosmetics The U.S. Food Drug and Cosmetic Act of 1938 defined cosmetics as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance…” The main difference between drugs and cosmetics is that drugs must be proven “safe and effective” before they can be marketed.

Cosmetics Skin Creams and Lotions Cosmetics are applied to the dead cells of the corneal layer of the skin.

Current FDA Definitions Cream: A semisolid dosage form containing one or more drug substances dissolved or dispersed in a suitable base. Gel: A semisolid system consisting of either suspensions made up of small inorganic particles or large organic molecules interpenetrated by a liquid. Lotion: "The term lotion" has been used to categorize many topical suspensions, solutions and emulsions intended for application to the skin. Ointment: A semisolid preparation intended for external application to the skin or mucous membranes.

What are the distinguishing properties? Chemical Base Composition Physical Properties Appearance Feel Microscopy Physico-chemical Viscosity Loss on Drying (LOD) Specific Gravity Surface Tension Water Solubility Water Absorption Drying Properties Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA) Here I list the variables we looked at in the lab.

Cosmetics Skin Creams and Lotions A lotion is an emulsion of oil droplets dispersed in water. A cream is an emulsion of water droplets dispersed in oil.

Cleansers Cleansers are products that are intended to clean the skin by removing dirt, oil, makeup, and dead skin cells. They contain special ingredients that help to unclog pores and to prevent skin conditions such as acne. They may also contain moisturizers to prevent the skin from drying out. Cleansers leave the skin feeling clean and fresh. The safety of Cleansers is established by selection of ingredients that are safe and suitable for this purpose. In addition, Cleansers are assessed for their potential to cause skin irritation or cause allergic reactions. Product safety is also established though strict adherence to the principles of Quality Assurance and Good Manufacturing Practices. This includes testing the compatibility of the product with packaging as well as shelf-life stability. Finally, the safety of products is monitored in the market-place to track any reports of consumer injury. Companies include a phone number on their products where comments or complaints may be reported. A related topic of interest includes Triclocarban. -

COMMON INGREDIENTS:  Stearic Acid Dimethicone Glycerin Propylene Glycol Cocamidopropyl Betaine Sorbitol Citric Acid Polyethylene Polysorbate 20 Beeswax Butylene Glycol Dipropylene Glycol Cetyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Sodium Laureth Sulfate Triethanolamine Mineral Oil Allantoin Fragrance Botanical Ingredients Colorants Water

Body and Hand Creams and Lotions Skin Care Products (Creams, Lotions, Powders, and Sprays)

Body and Hand Creams/Lotions are products that are intended to moisturize and soften the body and hands. They are often semi-solid emulsions of oil and water. Body and Hand Creams/Lotions contain special ingredients that help to replace the oils contained in the skin or to protect against the loss of moisture from the skin. The safety of Body and Hand Creams/Lotions is established by selection of ingredients that are safe and suitable for this purpose. In addition, Body and Hand Creams/Lotions are assessed for their potential to cause skin irritation or cause allergic reactions. Product safety is also established though strict adherence to the principles of Quality Assurance and Good Manufacturing Practices. This includes testing the compatibility of the product with packaging as well as shelf-life stability. Finally, the safety of products is monitored in the market-place to track any reports of consumer injury. Companies include a phone number on their products where comments or complaints may be reported.

COMMON INGREDIENTS:  Stearic Acid Dimethicone Glycerin Propylene Glycol Lanolin Stearyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol Glyceryl Stearate Tocopheryl Acetate Triethanolamine Carbomer Mineral Oil Allantoin Fragrance Botanical Ingredients Colorants Water

Beeswax Borax Emulsion

Borax Anhydrous borax (Na2B4O7) Borax pentahydrate (Na2B4O7·5H2O) Borax decahydrate (Na2B4O7·10H2O)

Household products Borax is used in various household laundry and cleaning products, including the "20 Mule Team Borax" laundry booster and "Boraxo" powdered hand soap. Despite its name, "Borateem" laundry bleach no longer contains borax or other boron compounds. Borax is also present in some tooth bleaching formulas. It is also an active ingredient in indoor and outdoor ant baits and killers and used for killing cockroaches.