Fit Problems and Solutions

Basic construction standards A. Quality 1. Seams 2. Seam finishes 3. Closures 4. Hems 5. Facings 6. Sleeves/cuffs 7. Collars B. Fit and/or function 1. Garment fit 2. Function of apparel item

Hook and Loop Tape Facing Hook and Bar Snaps Vocabulary Hook and Loop Tape Facing Hook and Bar Snaps Bound (Hem or Seam) Finish Nap Clipping Pinked Finish Grading Hem Notching Waistband Trimming Turned and Stitched Finish Interfacing (different weights and uses) Easing Gathering Casing Cuff Under stitching You are responsible for researching and defining each term and suggesting uses for each. Some sources are your textbook, www.husqvarnaviking.com (go to USA, then click Education tab on left and go to sewing room, click on assistance at top and then look up term in dictionary at bottom of page), or any sewing resource book available in classroom.

Quality of Seam Construction Seams in manufacturing should have at least a ½” seam allowance Appearance Bulk Finish Fullness Placement Pressing Reinforced Stitch length Tension Thread Width Seams in manufacturing should have at least a ½” seam allowance Appearance - flat and smooth (whether straight or curved) & free from runs, pulls and puckers Bulk - seams graded, comers trimmed, curves clipped and/or notched Finish - appropriate for fabric and style of garment Fullness - eased and smooth (as in sleeves, princess seam) Easing - a way of making one piece of fabric fit on to another by evenly pulling in the extra fabric with out making any gathers or tucks in the larger piece of fabric Placement - crossed seams meet Pressing - open in correct direction for purpose Reinforced - at ends with backstitching, knotting, or very short stitches Stitch length - uniform, appropriate to fabric and purpose Tension - balanced Thread - appropriate type and fiber, matching color unless decorative Width - seam allowances even

Reducing Bulk in Seams for Proper Fit Clip inside curve to allow seam to lie flat. Notch outside curve to eliminate bulk Trim outside corner to eliminate bulk Trim seam to eliminate bulk Grade seam to eliminate bulk, eliminate ridge from showing on right side Term Where Done Definition Purpose Clip Inside Curve To cut perpendicular through seam Allow seam allowance at regular intervals, close to lie flat. to allowance but not through line of stitching. Notch Outside Curve To snip out small wedge-shaped bits Eliminate bulk. of fabric in the seam allowance, close to but not through the line of stitching. Trim Outside Corner To cut off the corner of the seam Eliminate bulk. allowance, close to but not through the point of the comer formed by the line of stitching. Trim Seam To cut a seam allowance Eliminate bulk. to a narrower width. Grade Seams To cut seam allowances in graduated Eliminate bulk, widths. eliminate ridge from showing on right side.

Quality of Seam Finishes Seam Finishes - finish according to fabric, design, and use of garment Appearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling Types of Seam Finishes Unfinished Pinked Edge stitched Zigzag Appearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling Types of Seam Finishes Unfinished - for fabrics that do not ravel (usually only stable knits and bonded fabrics) Pinked - provides a decorative effect; not always a functional seam finish as it sometimes ravels, particularly if garment is laundered frequently Edge stitched - for fabric with slight degree of raveling; stitching is straight and even, 1/8 to 1/4" from edge Zigzag - desirable for many fabrics; on plain seams overcast edge of seam allowance using stitch size appropriate to weight of fabric; on sheer and open fabric stitch both seam allowances together with small stitch close to seam line and trim close to zigzag

Quality of Seam Finishes continued Hand overcast Clean or Turned and Stitched Double stitched Bound Serged Hand overcast - same as zigzag; stitches even, single thread, thread not drawn tight Clean or Turned and Stitched - satisfactory for lightweight fabrics; edge of seam allowance turned to wrong side and stitched close to edge of fold, seam allowance even width Double stitched - appropriate for sheer fabrics; second row of stitching 1/8" from seam line straight and even, trimmed close to second row of stitching Bound - appropriate for unlined jacket or coat, often used with heavy, bulky fabrics (especially those that ravel easily, such as heavy woven woolen coat or suit fabric); binding appropriate for fashion fabric, stitching straight and even Serged - appropriate for most fabrics and weights; both seam allowances are serged together unless very heavy fabric is used; stitching straight, even selvages

Quality of Closures (including zippers) Hook & Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks & "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops Hook & Bar – Two-piece metal fastening Snaps – Metal fasteners Hook and Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is a piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks, and a "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops. When the two sides are pressed together, the hooks catch in the loops and hold the pieces together. Not usually used in ready to wear but is good choice for anyone who has difficulty using hands to button (elderly, disabled, small children). Hook and Bar – A two-piece metal fastening. One side is a small hook, the other side is a raised bar on which the hook catches. Used for waistbands (Waistbands - A band of material encircling and fitting the waist of a garment, such as trousers or a skirt.) Snaps – Snaps are metal fasteners (fig. 6) that come in several sizes for lightweight to heavy fabrics. They can be covered with matching fabric if the metal snap is too obvious. Used in children’s clothing.

Quality of Closures (including zippers) Appearance Covering Placement Reinforced Spacing Stitching Suitable Appearance - neat, inconspicuous unless intended to be decorative. Garment lays flat when fastened Covering - snaps are covered when appropriate to garment (suit, coat, "dressy“ dress) Placement - correct placement for the two parts; hook side of Velcro is placed on top and loop side on bottom Reinforced - by interfacing on wrong side out outer fabric Spacing - good proportion between fastener and in relation to edges of garment; hooks are usually placed 1/8 inch from edge of overlap Stitching - small, even, secure, inconspicuous on right side of garment; on wire hooks, anchored under hook part as well as at ends; the buttonhole, blanket, or overcasting stitch may be used for applying fasteners Suitable - to fabric and intended use of garment; functional

Length Placement Spacing Width Quality of Closures Buttons Reinforced Shank Size Spacing Stitching Type Buttonholes Appearance Grain Length Placement Spacing Width Buttons Reinforced - by interfacing (between garment and facing) or reinforcement button Shank - proper length to eliminate pull on button or fabric; may be part of button or made with thread Size - appropriate to fabric and style of garment Spacing - good proportion between buttons and in relation to edges of garment; in appropriate place for design of fabric as in stripes or plaids Stitching - secure, uniform; double thread should be used Type - suitable to fabric and intended use of garment; functional Buttonholes Appearance - flat, uniform, fabric around buttonhole not stretched Grain - on grain of fabric (unless design requires variation) Length - uniform; large enough for button to pass through easily but small enough to hold garment closed Placement - on right side of woman's garment, left of man's Stitching - secure Spacing - good proportion between buttonholes and in relation to edges of garment Width – even

Hems should hang parallel to floor. To hem, cut edges are folded up, folded up again, then sewed down. Cut edges are enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravel Appearance Ease Hand stitching Pressing Seams Topstitching Width To hem a piece of cloth, the cut edges are folded up, folded up again, and then sewed down. The cut edges are thus completely enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravel (NO RAW EDGES). Appearance - flat, smooth, inconspicuous from right side unless decorative and free from raw edges Ease - fullness in flared hem controlled with ease and shrinking Hand stitching - even, secure, free from drawing, inconspicuous; single thread used; stitches about 3/8" apart Pressing - upper hem edge should not imprint or cause ridge on outer garment Hem fold pressed so hem hangs smoothly at lower edge. Seams - matched Topstitching - uniform, corresponds with other topstitching on garment; appropriate for garment Width - uniform; appropriate for fabric; style; provides enough weight to make garment hang well

Interfacings & Under stitching Interfacings can be used to: Stiffen or add body (crispness) to fabric Strengthen a certain area of the fabric Keep fabrics from stretching out of shape Under stitching ensures that a facing won't roll to the outside of your garment. Interfacing is a textile used wrong side of fabrics to make an area of a garment more rigid. Interfacings can be used to: Stiffen or add body (crispness) to fabric, such as the interfacing used in shirt collars Strengthen a certain area of the fabric, for instance where buttonholes will be sewn Keep fabrics from stretching out of shape, particularly knit fabrics Interfacings come in a variety of weights and stiffnesses to suit different purposes. Generally, the heavier weight a fabric is, the heavier weight an interfacing it will use. Fusible interfacing & non-fusible interfacing Under stitching ensures that a facing won't roll to the outside of your garment. Here's what to do: Clip and trim the seam allowances as necessary and press them toward the facing. Place the facing right side up under the foot of your sewing machine, allowing the rest of the garment to fall to the left. Sew the facing to the seam allowances using a straight stitch and sewing close to the seam. Reposition the facing as you sew so that it lies flat.

A Facing is the area of a garment or sewn item that turns to the inside, giving a finished appearance to what would otherwise just be a raw edge of fabric. The facing is usually interfaced to add shape to the edge of the fabric. Facings Appearance - flat, smooth, not visible from outside Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or notched Edge Finish - appropriate to fabric; Facing edges free from ravelling (NO RAW EDGES) Securing – under stitched where appropriate; tacked only at seam allowances and darts or stitch-in-the ditch method used where appropriate (as on shoulder seam) Width - even unless pattern requires variation

Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings Appearance Bulk Ease Gathers Pressing Reinforced Seam Finish Seams Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings Sleeves Appearance - curve of armhole smooth and gradual Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or wedged Ease - even, not puckered, puffy, or pleated unless pattern specifies this as part of the design; Fullness evenly distributed by easing Gathers - evenly distributed when gathering is intended design Pressing - both seam allowances pressed toward sleeve in set-in sleeve; seam allowances pressed open in kimono and raglan sleeves; elbow dart pressed toward wrist Reinforced - underarm of raglan and set-in sleeves - second row of stitching 1/4" from seam line between notches; underarm of kimono sleeve - stay tape stitched in underarm seam or gusset inserted Seam Finish - both armhole seam edges handled as one and finished appropriate to fabric Seams - free from pulling or drawing in kimono seam; underarm seam in set-in sleeve is double stitched between notches, then clipped or trimmed between notches. Seam smooth and even in width around cap Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings (A tunnel of fabric, usually made by folding over a cut edge or sewing an additional strip of fabric on at the cut edge. Elastic or a drawstring may be threaded through a casing.)

Cuffs should fit comfortably around wrists Appearance Bulk Interfacing A Cuff is the lower edge of a sleeve (or pant leg) turned back to show an ornamental border Cuffs should fit comfortably around wrists Appearance Bulk Interfacing Grain Shape Width Cuffs should fit comfortably around wrists Appearance - flat, smooth, only upper cuff visible Bulk - seams graded, comers trimmed, curves clipped and/or notched Interfacing - present in shirt cuffs (not used in pant cuffs), appropriate for effect desired Grain - lengthwise unless pattern requires variation Shape - points and curves even in shape on both sleeves Width - even

Collars Appearance Bulk Grain Interfacing Shape Under stitching Appearance - only upper collar visible (under collar and facing should not be seen); smooth (no rippling); enclosed seams not visible; patterned fabric is balanced on left and right side. Rolls smoothly or lays flat according to design Bulk - seams graded, comers trimmed, curves clipped and/or notched Grain - lengthwise unless pattern requires variation Interfacing - appropriate for effect desired Shape - same on left and right (curve of collar, angle of points, relation to center front or back) Under stitching - uniform, appropriately placed

- WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort Fit and/or Function - WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort - Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline) - Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body - Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor - Darts point to & stop short of fullest part of area they fit - Free from strain and/or excess fullness Garment Fit - sit, bend, & hold arms up in garment to check for wearing ease. - WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort. - Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline) properly located on body. - Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body. Chest and back fit smoothing with no binding. - Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor (according to style). - Darts point to and stop short of the fullest part of the area they fit. - Free from strain and/or excess fullness.

Fit and/or Function cont’d - Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.) - Crotch should be smooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending. - Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction. Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.) - Crotch should be smooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending. - Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction. When working with corduroy, velvet, suede fabric or any fabric with a pile, the fabric looks darker or has a slightly different color when viewed from one direction and then the other. Make sure all pieces of garments with nap run the same direction and the nap is running in the right direction.