Basic Patternmaking & Style Interpretation-II

Collar- Terminology Neckline edge: The side of the collar that is stitched to the neckline of the garment. Collar edge: The outer edge or design of the collar. Collar stand: The height at which the collar rolls over itself. Roll line: The fold over at the collar stand.

Collar- Classification Regardless of the design of the collar, the neckline edge generally has one of two basic shapes: a. Convertible- these types of collars are Contrary to the neckline curve of the garment and spring open when unbuttoned (example- basic shirt collar). b. Nonconvertible- these types of collars follow closely to the neckline of the garment and stays in place when unbuttoned (example- peter pan collar).

Sleeve- Terminology Sleeve cap: Curved top of the sleeves from front to back. Cap height: Distance from biceps to cap at canter. Biceps level: Widest part of the sleeve dividing cap from lower sleeve. Sleeve ease: Additional allowance at biceps, elbow, and wrist levels accommodating the circumference of the arm and allowing ease for freedom of movement. Ease ranges from 1 1/2 to 2 or more inches. Cap ease: Difference between cap and armhole measurement (ranging from1to 1 7/8 inch). Elbow level. The location of the dart, level with elbow of arm. Wrist level. The bottom (hemline) of the long sleeve, level with wrist. Grain line. Canter of sleeve from top of cap to wrist level- straight grain of sleeve. Quartering sleeve. Sleeve divided into four equal parts from cap to wrist. Used as guidelines for spreading the sleeve .Quarter section are labeled X (see illustration). Notches. One notch indicates fort sleeve, two notches indicate back sleeve. Cap notch indicates where sleeve and shoulder meet (location can vary from centre grain line.)

Pocket classification Outside pocket: Pockets such as the patch pocket are attached to the outside of a garment. This of pocket can be designed in a number of sizes and shapes, with or without a flap.   Inserted pockets: Pockets are inserted into a straight or stylized seam, with the cavity or pouch on the inside of the garment. Inserted pockets can also be stitched to the inside of a garment, giving the appearance of a patch pocket on the right side of the garment. Welt pockets:These Pockets are characterized by a separate strip or flap stitched to the pocket opening with the pouch falling to the inside of the garment. The pockets can have a double welt or single welt, can be stylized with or without flaps.

Placket classification A placket is a finishing provided to an opening in a garment. Placket should be designed and styled in sufficient length to permit ease and convenience of dressing. Placket openings are used on sleeves, front or back neckline to allow for ease in wearing a garment. There are mainly three types of plackets 1.Pointed Placket with facing-in-one 2.Wing Collar Placket 3.Slit opening Placket

Pants classification On the basis of fit pants can be classified as follows: CULOTTE: This type of pants hangs away from abdomen and buttocks. TROUSER: This type of pants hangs straight from abdomen and buttocks. SLACKS: This type of Pants cup slightly under abdomen and buttocks. JEANS: This type of pants contours abdomen and buttocks

Pants classification On the basis of length pants can be classified as follows: Shorty-Shorts: 1 ½ inch below crotch at in seam & 1 inch above crotch level at side seam. Shorts: 2 inch below crotch level. Jamaicas: Midway between crotch & Knee. Bermudas: Between Jamaica & Knee. Pedal Pusher: 2 inch down from knee. Toreador: Between knee & ankle. Capri: 1 inch above ankle.

Skirt classification On the basis of fit skirt can be classified as follows: STRAIGHT: This type of skirt fall straight from hip line to the hemline. A-SHAPE: This type of skirt fall away from hip flaring out at the hemline. PEGGED: This type of skirt fall inward from hip level to the hemline. BELL SHAPE: This type of skirt clings to the figure curve at above or below the hip and breaks in to fluid movement along the hemline.

Skirt classification On the basis of Length skirt can be classified as follows: Micro-mini Mini Knee-length Midi Ballerina Ankle Length Floor Length