COSTUMES OF DIFFERENT CIVILIZATIONS Detailed study of Egyptian civilization: Before 4000 BC Egyptians emerged on the banks of river Egyptians were the first to open the record of costumes Garments were simple and triangular in shape

Female Attire Dresses were characterized by a high waistline Kalarasis- was a transparent skirt falling below waist till ankles. A thin shawl was also worn above kalarasis. Another ensemble that was popular consisted of 2 pieces.

Male Attire Male garment consisted of rectangular piece held by a belt. Lower class people wore a triangular piece of cloth called schenti.white material skirt was common among high class men. The sash was tied in different ways at different occasions.

Hairstyles Men shaved their heads but wore wigs Head coverings were common among royal families – symbolizing their ranks in office. Women had short hair. Soft curls were very common Colored ribbons, lotus flowers were twined around hair.

Jewellery Women wear earrings, armlets and ankle rings. Colored, embroidered necklaces, bracelets were common among both the sexes. Priests wore feathers, lotus leaves and birds to symbolize their rank

GREEK COSTUMES Fabric was more elaborated, included complex border designs. Greek dresses were often made of fine wool. Greek costumes were often draped. Dresses for all the classes were same but the quality of material and arrangement of cloth used to be different. Primary undergarment was Chiton- all over body garment made from a rectangular piece of cloth.

Women Costumes Peplos- a short tunic worn by women Palla- feminine outer garment worn upto waist, fixed at the shoulders with pins, leaving arms free. Karagouna- famous female wedding dress with bright colors. Desfina- peasant’s dress with tassels and fringes.

Men costumes Chlamys- light cloak worn by young men. Talaris- outer garment worn by both men and women. Himation- large cloak worn by both men and women.

Hairstyles Greeks were fond of curly hair and used to tie them in a knot with a net at the back. For decoration ribbons, flowers, beads, circles of metal were used. Pins were used to secure the hair.

Roman Period Roman costumes had a dominant influence on the costumes of entire world. Much of the roman clothing was designed to reveal the social status of the wearer. In the roman fashion, the dresses were distinctively marked according to the status of the wearer.

Men costumes Toga – was the most important garment of Roman period. Semi-circular piece of cloth measuring 12’ long and 6’ wide.the folds and pleats were neatly arranged. Tunica- the tunica was the Roman innovation. Comprised of a piece of clothhaving a slit for the head at its center point.

Women costume Stola- was the traditional outer garment worn by married roman women. Palla- yhis was a rectangular wrap. Usually worn by decent women for modesty and protection. Peplos- was made from two rectangular pieces of cloth partially sewn together on both sides.

Hairstyles Upper class women favoured curls, coiled braids or bun at the back. Wigs were also used. Adorned their hair with garlands of flowers, ribbons of various colours. Mature roman women used to always cover their heads with veil or part of palla

Footwears Both men and women used to wear a wide variety of shoes and sandals. Most of the shoes were constructed in military caliage style. Shoes were also made by cutting or punching circles, triangles, squares, ovals etc.

Jewellery Necklaces were either braided threads of gold or a series of amber, garnet or emerald beads. Use of pendants was very common Senators and equites wear a gold ring. Fibula- sort of safety pin for securing garments was also very common.bracelets and earrings made of gold were also worn.

Textile Science-II Basic knowledge of fabric structure, dying, printing and finishing , common fabric faults.

Knitting Technology Difference between warp knitting and weft knitting. Various types of knitting: Plain, Purl,Rib and interlock Tricot and Raschel

Finishing Definition: refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material

Classification of Finishing Basic Finishes: Bleaching: process to enhance the whiteness of the fabric and removing trace impurities. Calendaring: mechanical finishing process in which fabric is compressed by passing it between two or more rolls under controlled conditions of time, temperature and pressure. Tentering: process for setting warp and weft of woven fabrics at right angles to each other and sets the fabric to its final dimension by means of stretching. Scouring: process of removing natural impurities from fabric like oil, wax, dirt by means of soap solutions and chemicals. Weighting: the process of increasing the weight of the silk material is known as weighting. Singeing: is done to achieve a smooth and even surface by burning off projecting fibres.

Functional Finishes: Sanforization: it is anti- shrinkage finishing process to prevent the normal dimensional alteration of warp and weft. Mercerization: process applied to cotton to enhance its lusture and appearance. Crease Resistant:finishing process to improve crease resistance, breaking strength and tearing strength. Flame retardant: finishing process to withstand exposure to flame or high temperature. Waterproof: closing the pores of fabric by applying substances as insoluble metallic compounds, paraffin ets so as to make the fabric waterproof.

Dyeing Process of adding color to textile products like fibre, yarn and fabrics.

Stages of dyeing Fibre dyeing: is carried out at the fibre stage only. Yarn dyeing: is done after the fibre has been spun into yarn Piece dyeing: the constructed fabrics are piece dyed for the flexibility they provide. Garment dyeing: is the process of dyeing fully fashioned garments.