Wave Action Section 13.1.

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Presentation transcript:

Wave Action Section 13.1

What is a wave? Wave – movement of energy Wave size depends on: through a body Wave size depends on: strength of wind length of time wind blows distance over which wind blows

What is a wave? Wave molecules move in a circular motion Molecules at the surface move in a bigger circle than those that are deeper At a certain depth, water is not affected by the wave

What is a wave? Crest – highest point Trough – lowest point Wavelength – distance from crest to crest Wave height – distance from crest to trough

Wavelength Wave height Crest Trough Wave Depth is half the wavelength

How waves change near shore Breakers – white capped waves that crash onto the shore Friction on the bottom slows the wave down. Wave height increases and wave length decreases.

How waves change near shore Tsunamis – usually caused by an earthquake beneath the ocean floor

How waves affect the shore Longshore Drift – the movement of sand as water washes up and carries sand along the beach

How waves affect the shore Rip current - a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening

Waves and beach erosion Groins Barrier Beaches Sand Dunes