Recovering the royal cuisine in Chosun Dynasty and its esthetics Hae-Kyung Chung, Dayeon Shin, Kyung Rhan Chung, Soe Yeon Choi, Nariyah Woo  Journal of Ethnic Foods  Volume 4, Issue 4, Pages 242-253 (December 2017) DOI: 10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001 Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 1 Reproduction of King Kojong's morning sangsik setting: The cooked rice eaten by the king and queen was called sura and was served as white sura or red sura. The word sura appears to derive from the Mongolian word sulleon [27]. The morning table setting contains both white sura (bap) and red sura alongside banchans (side dishes) including kuk (soup), tang (steamed dishes), bokkeum (stir-fry) and kui (roast meat), kamjeong, vinegar, skewers, jeon, slices of boiled meat, namul, sikhye, fresh jujube, jaban, jerky, jangkwa (pickled vegetables and fruits), kimchi and jang, as well as fruits and hwachae (fruit drink). The breakfast contained a total of 19 dishes. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 2 Reproduction of King Kojong's daytime tea ceremony sang (table) setting: The “ju” (晝) in judaryebalgi (daytime tea ceremony memo) means daytime, indicating that this was a table setting served at lunch. As shown in the diagram, the table setting does not contain sura and seems to be a pasta table with dishes such as mokmyeon (木麵, buckwheat noodles). A pasta table for lunch was commonplace in the palace, and King Kojong is known to have had a particular fondness for cold noodles. Accordingly, it is likely that he was usually served cold buckwheat noodle soup for lunch. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 3 Reproduction of King Kojong's evening surasang setting: The composition of the evening sangsik is similar to the table setting in the morning sangsik memo, containing a total of 19 dishes. Both white sura and red sura were served alongside kuk, pollack-tang, kalbi-chim (bone steamed dish), jeon, pyunpo-kui (roast meat), pyunyuk (thin slices of boiled meat), namul (green vegetables), jangkwa, kimchi, fruits and hwachae. The fruits and hwachae, served as dessert, were an essential part of the meal. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 4 Sura (bap, cooked rice) in the King Kojong ritual memos: red bean (jeokdujeommisura was made by steaming glutinous rice with red bean to produce a reddish color, and was also called hongban (red bap), patmulbap (adzuki bap), jeokdusuhwachui or jungdeungbap. Sura was cooked in a small pot called saeong. One bowl of boiled rice and one bowl of red bean rice were added to the pot, which was then placed above a charcoal brazier for simmering. Water boiled with adzuki (red) beans was poured into the glutinous rice in order to give it a reddish color. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 5 Main kuk and tang in the King Kojong ritual memos: Kuk or tang was one of the basic foods and was made with meat, fish and shellfish or vegetables. (A) In the palace, short rib tang was prepared as a gourmet dish using a variety of ingredients. The ingredients included mainly beef, cow's first stomach, konjasoni (the oily entrails at the end of cow's intestines), or buhwa as meat, abalone, sea cucumber as seafood and radish, mushroom, parsley, sesame oil, soy sauce, onion, sesame, ground pepper, pine nuts and eggs as vegetables. (B) The Pollack-tang served in the evening sangsik was a clear fish kuk. When fish was used in kuk, the meat broth was boiled first and then fish and onions were added to create the desired taste. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 6 Kimchi in King Kojong's ritual memos: Kimchi was considered an important banchan in the palace and was served in ordinary cuisine as well as during banquets. In particular, it is mentioned in the jinchanuigwe (Royal Protocols) between 1848 and 1877 under the name sungchimchae. Sung (菘) means kimchi made with Chinese cabbage. The palace usually served traditional kimchi, timchae and hyesukchimchae. Chimchae (沈菜) is the Sino-Korean word for kimchi [28], and the word was written in Korean script. Hyesukchimchae is less clear, but it appears to be a variety of kimchi that contains fermented fish (jeotgal) and seafood (Fig 6). Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 7 Namul as main banchan in the King Kojong ritual memos: Namul are usually divided into raw vegetables that are seasoned and cooked vegetables that are boiled and marinated. (A) Sukchae (cooked namul) were more commonly served in the palace. Sukjusukchae refers to mung bean sprouts and naboksuja refers to namu (蘿葍, radish) sprouts. (B) Taeachae refers to soybean sprouts. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 8 Main banchan (Bokkeum, stir fry) in the King Kojong ritual memo: The internal organs of cows were often used in royal cuisine during the Chosun Dynasty. (A) Dutaebokki is a stir-fried dish (bokkeum) made with ox kidney. The dutae (豆太) in dutaebokki is a borrowed word made up of the Chinese characters for soybeans (豆) and adzuki (red) beans (太). Dutaebokki is a stir-fried kidney dish, and the name is made up of a direct translation of the sino-Korean word for ox kidney, dutae (豆太) combined with bokki (stir-fry). (B) Cheongpobokki also called mukchae, was a stir-fried dish made with green-lentil jelly. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 9 Kui (roast meet) and dry banchan in the King Kojong ritual memos. (A) Uyukjeok is a type of jeok (skewer) made with beef, also called yuksanjeok or jeongyuksanjeok. It was also used in other dishes as utgi [a type of ingredient used to shape theok (rice cakes) in kuk] for noodles and theok-kuk. (B) Pyeonpogui was prepared by taking minced beef and molding it into a flat shape before adding marinade and spreading it on a wicker tray to dry jaban (salted dry fish) in several colors were prepared using a variety of ingredients. There were many types including dried yellow corvina jaban, dried pollack bopuraki, seasoned dried pollack and shrimp dasik. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 10 (A) Jeotgal (fermented fishes) in the King Kojong ritual memos: In the palace, the word kaksikhye referred to various kinds of fermented fishes or meats. Fermented fishes were commonly eaten in the palace, including seokhwahae (石花醢, fermented oysters jeotgal with red pepper), myeongnanhae (明卵醢, fermented pollack roe jeotgal with red pepper), seokeojeot (石魚醢, fermented yellow corvine jeotgal), hwangseokeojeot (黃石魚醢, fermented yellow croaker jeotgal), haphae (蛤醢, fermented clams jeotgal), hahae (蝦醢, fermented shrimp jeotgal) and jahahae (紫蝦醢, fermented tiny shrimp jeotgal). For pickled vegetables, (B) jangkwa in various colors jangachi were served. This dish was made by salting seasonal vegetables or drying and mixing them with beef and several kinds of seasoning. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions

Fig. 11 Miscellaneous dishes in the King Kojong ritual memos. (A) Mokmyeon (buckwheat noodles) was served either warm or cold as part of a pasta table for lunch. (B) Japkwa-nokdubyeong and jujube-jabakbyeong were served as dessert for lunch. Nokdubyeong is a rice cake made with nonglutinous rice and mung beans, while jujube-jabakbyeong is made by adding glutinous rice flour or nonglutinous rice flour to jujube powder and kneading it before steaming it. Main bapsang did not include theok (rice cakes), but they were served as dessert for daytime tea ceremonies, which used noodles as a staple instead of rice. Journal of Ethnic Foods 2017 4, 242-253DOI: (10.1016/j.jef.2017.12.001) Copyright © 2017 Terms and Conditions