Waves.

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Presentation transcript:

Waves

Waves Waves – caused by wind and the shape of the ocean floor Wind transfers energy from air to water molecules through friction Waves of water only move up & down, not horizontally

Waves

Wave Motion Particles in the wave move in a circular motion

Breakers Breaker- where the bottom of the wave hits the shoreline and the top keeps moving forming an arc

Breaker

Breaker

Waves Direction Waves start at an angle with the wind, and slow down to become parallel with the shore when breaking.

Wave Direction

Long Shore Currents Waves strike shore at an angle causing a current to flow parallel to the shore.

Long Shore Current

Rip Tides form when a sandbar is broken apart causing water to rush back to sea.

Rip Tide

Whitecaps vs. Swells

Tsunami (Tidal Wave)

Tides rise and fall of sea level caused by gravitational pull of the moon and sun tidal cycle= 24 hours and 50 minutes 2 high tides & 2 low tides a day approx. 6 HRs & 15 Min apart

Tides

Types of Tides Spring Tide- occurs twice a month at full and new moon Causes highest high tide and lowest low tide

Types of Tides Neap Tide- occurs twice a month at first and last quarter Causes low high tide and high low tide