A Guide to Japanese Patterns Otome Know Sewing A Guide to Japanese Patterns By Addie Sebastienne

About Me Lolita for ~8 Years Sewing for ~10 Years Using OnS for ~4 Years Reading Japanese for ~5 Years (Middle School Level) JSK made with Otome no Sewing Pattern

What is Otome no Sewing? Lolita-specific sewing pattern books Published by Boutique Cost around ~ ¥1300 ($12) per issue Volume One – March 21st, 2012 Volume Eleven – May 29th, 2017

Where to Buy Otome no Sewing ☆CD Japan ☆Amazon JP Ebay Amazon US LaceMarket E-hon.ne.jp (SS)

How to buy from Amazon JP Without a SS It’s surprisingly easy to make purchases from Amazon.co.jp without a shopping service, and many items are available to ship internationally. Here’s how to do it:

Step 1: Go to Amazon.co.jp and change your language to English.

Step 2: Search for whatever item you are looking for Step 2: Search for whatever item you are looking for. Use Microsoft IME or Google and copy/paste the Japanese.

Step 3: Refine your settings to include only items that are international shipping eligible.

Step 4: Add things to your cart, make an account & check out as you normally would! ☆ You will need to make an Amazon.co.jp account. You cannot use an Amazon.com account.

Shipping is cheaper on Amazon Japan, too!

How to use OnS Patterns (even if you don’t read Japanese!) Helpful Materials: Japanese Sewing Terms List Microsoft IME (for Windows Users) Google Translate Phone App Your Measurements in CM Knowledge of Pattern Adjustment (or tutorials) Required Materials: OnS Book Paper to copy Patterns Writing Utensil

Browsing the OnS Book ☆ Remember that Japanese books are read from right to left. The first thing you will see is the item index. Each item is given a number. You must also take note of the page number.

Finding the Pattern Patterns in the OnS book are identified by page number, then pattern number. For example, pattern number 10, which is pictured on page 6, is 6ページ10. For this presentation, I will be referring to the patterns by book, then page, then pattern, i.e. OnS 4, 6 page 10.

Browsing the OnS Book Continue to browse until you find your desired pattern. As you go through the book, you will also find advertisements and tutorials. Anything with a number next to it has a correlating pattern.

Beginning the Pattern Once you have decided on a pattern, find the part of the book (about 2/3 through) where the patterns are. They come on one big sheet that you have to cut out of the book. They are double-sided. This page also has the size guide. Keep this in mind.

Find the Page Locate the page where your pattern is listed. This page will tell you the amount of each material you need for the pattern. It will also give you the cutting diagram. The subsequent pages will give directions, with pictures.

Tracing the Pattern Because all of the book’s patterns are one big, double-sided sheet, you can’t cut them out. You have to trace them instead. ☆Keep in mind: Japanese patterns don’t have seam allowance! Either add it to your pattern or to your cutting. Before unfolding the pattern sheet, figure out which side your pattern is on. Do this by looking at the pictures, and reading the corresponding numbers.

Tracing the Pattern To trace the pattern, you have several options for paper: Sewing Pattern Paper Easy Pattern Fabric Tissue Paper Computer Paper ☆Parchment Paper

Measurements & Adjustments Check the measurement guide you saw earlier. If your measurements are within the OnS S, M, L scale, you can go ahead and trace your pattern along the corresponding labeled lines. If not, you will have to alter your pattern. There are plenty of tutorials online for how to do this!

A series of adjustments made by VanillaDrops to OnS6, 2 page 2

Tracing the Pattern Trace all parts of your pattern. You can do this just by looking for the number and ignoring the Japanese, but it is best to read the name of the piece, too. You can do this by referencing a Japanese Sewing Terms list, or by using the Google Translate app on your phone.

Special Note Sometimes, OnS will re-use a certain pattern piece for multiple patterns. For example, if, on the page your pattern is on, you see that “フリルA” (Frill A) and “フリルB” (Frill B) are on the cutting diagram, but you can’t find it labeled with your number on the pattern sheet, see if there are any pieces with those names, even if the numbers are different. Chances are, that’s it!

Side Back Side Front Front Back You’ll end up with something like this! Side Back Side Front Front Back

Mock-Ups You should make a mock-up or muslin of any new pattern, but this is especially true if you have adjusted the size of your pattern.

Sewing the Garment If you have prior sewing experience, you should be able to follow the pattern just by the photos, without having to translate the directions. But if you’re confused, try to translate it with Google Translate. VanillaDrops constructing the bodice from OnS4, 10 page 3

& That's It! VanillaDrops; OnS4, 10 page 3

I store my patterns in large envelopes, labeled with the OnS book number, page number and pattern number. Sometimes I also write the page number of the directions. I also write the measurements, if I have altered the pattern.

You can always change design elements, like bustles, pintucks, etc You can always change design elements, like bustles, pintucks, etc. to make a pattern look completely different!

I like to use the bodice patterns from Otome no Sewing, and then draft my own skirts to make unique JSKs.

Please take a business card! Feel free to send me questions any time! Good Luck & Happy Sewing! Please take a business card! Feel free to send me questions any time!