Intermediate Glacier Travel Lecture 1: Introductions and Evaluation

Welcome! “The Intermediate Glacier Travel course teaches both the technical and non-technical skills needed to comfortably plan and lead a basic glacier climb.” Topics covered in course include: Cramponing, arrests, and techniques for managing for steep slopes Placing and equalizing snow protection (pickets, screws, etc.) Advanced haul systems and belay techniques Group management, camp site selection and camp construction Trip planning, route selection, and navigation

Who am I? Full-time professional guide for 6 years >100 summits of Rainier (14,411’) 6 different routes, 2 winter ascents 2 summits of Denali (20,322’) Multiple expeditions to Ecuador: Chimborazo (20,564’), Cotopaxi (19,347’), Cayambe (18,966’), Antisana (18,714’) Multiple expeditions to Mexico: Pico de Orizaba (18,491’), Iztaccihuatl (17,159’) Lots of alpine rock in the North Cascades

Who are you? 60 students Quick round of intros 30 are in the Intermediate package; 30 are not Variety of backgrounds; we’ll establish a common base to build on tonight Quick round of intros Name Climbing experience Any specific goals for the course? Dream climb?

What to Expect from this Course Three lectures: Today: Pre-requisite evaluation Lecture 2 (Jan 24 or 26): Trip Planning, “Potpourri” of topics Lecture 3 (Jan 30, or Feb 2, 7, 9): Technical Skills Two days in the field: Run in small groups Heart of the course, lots of hands-on practice in the field You are encouraged to brainstorm beforehand and come up with additional topics or questions to cover if time permits on your trip Must be AIAIRE 1 certified before your first field day

Today’s Evaluation

Today’s Evaluation The goal is not to eliminate people from the course There are three stations that everyone must go through… … with three possible outcomes Pass: Nailed it! Marginal Pass: Pass, but could’ve been better Fail: Did not meet the standard Specific feedback will be provided if you receive an marginal or fail Opportunity to re-attempt stations at end of Lecture 3

Station 1: Knots and Hitches Overhand on a bight Figure-8: On a bight and rewoven Bowline Alpine butterfly Clove Hitch Munter Hitch Munter-Mule Prusik, Autoblock, Klemheist*

Station 1: Knots and Hitches We’ll do this one first; should go fairly quickly To pass: Tie all of the required knots without assistance from evaluators or students All knots/hitches should be properly dressed To fail: Don’t know how to tie all of the required knots Don’t dress your knots properly

Station 2: Rope Ascension We’ll have four stations set up upstairs To pass: Use your equipment properly Ascend a fixed line using standard glacier travel gear Maintain two load-bearing points-of-contact on the system Keep less than 2m of slack between the two points To fail: Don’t wear your helmet Don’t manage your slack as you ascend Don’t have a backup to your waist Prusik

Station 3: Crevasse Rescue Multiple stations set up downstairs in basement To pass: Perform a crevasse rescue, including a haul system of at least 2:1 advantage Standard is Drop-C, but safe alternatives are acceptable as well Prevent excess slack from accumulating during haul (less than 2m) Protect yourself and your partner at all times To fail: Disconnect yourself or your partner from the system at any point Don’t know how to build an appropriate haul system Leave the fallen climber attached to only one POC at any point

Scorecards Put your name on your card so you get credit! Instructors will initial one of the three results And provide any specific feedback for that event

Important: Make sure you turn in your score cards at the end of the session!

Questions?

For Lecture 2… Bring a compass suitable for navigation; we’ll need them for the exercises