Fur Fun: Riding Giants http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYQQtxb8wv0.

Slides:

Advertisements

Similar presentations

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean ©2003 Jones and Bartlett Publishers.

Advertisements

WAVES disturbance caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas). THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT SIZES AND SHAPES.

Introduction to Oceanography Dynamic Oceanography: Waves.

Chapter 9: Waves and Water Dynamics Fig Waves are moving energy Forces cause waves to move along air/water or within water Wind (most surface ocean.

Waves. 2 3  Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force.  An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to.

How Waves Form When you watch the surfer's wave crash onto the beach, you are seeing the last step in the process of the wave's development. The process.

Chapter 21 Section 2.

  waimea-bay-cam

Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site. Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course.

Waves. 2 3 Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force. An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to return.

Waves and Tides. Wave Characteristics Most ocean waves are energy passing through water caused by the wind Crests are the top of the waves Troughs are.

Chapter 10 Waves Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Tsunamis, Internal waves

WAVES disturbance caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas).

Waves. Wave Terminology H = Height A = Amplitude = 1/2H L = λ = Wave Length ( distance 2 consecutive crests) T = Wave Period (Time between 2 consecutive.

Ocean Waves What causes ocean waves to form and move?

Lesson 9: Waves Physical Oceanography

OCEAN WAVES. OBJECTIVES Identify the generating force of different waves Describe the factors that influence wind wave development Describe the basic.

Chapter 8 Waves and Water Dynamics

Movements of the Ocean Section 2 Section 2: Ocean Waves Preview Objectives Ocean Waves Wave Energy Waves and the Coastline Tsunamis Wave Model of Refraction.

Wind Waves…. Presented by: Saira Hashmi Nov 18 th, 2005 EPS 131 Introduction to Physical Oceanography.

Waves and Water Dynamics

–wave –crest –trough –breaker Objectives Describe the physical properties of waves. Explain how tides form. Compare and contrast various ocean currents.

Waves and Tides December 8, 2015December 8, 2015December 8, 2015.

Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves

WAVES. Understanding wave physics is important for human life (and not just for surfing) 1. A wave is the transmission of energy through matter – in this.

Waves in the Ocean. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. Parts of a wave are, Wave crest,Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wave Amplitude,

Ocean Waves Capillary Gravity Wind generated Tides Tsunamis Seiches.

Ocean Waves Chapter 10 Oceanography.

Water and Weather. Water and Weather Chapter Seven: Oceans 7.1 Introduction to Oceans 7.2 Waves 7.3 Shallow Marine Environments 7.4 The Ocean Floor.

Unit 3: Waves and tides.

Unit 3 – Oceanography Section 3: Currents, Waves, and Tides

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean.

WAVES. Wave – propagation of energy through a medium. Speed is determined by the properties of the medium. Gravity waves – sufficiently large waves where.

Waves Chapter 9.

The Waves An Introduction to the World’s Oceans Sverdrup et al. - Chapter Ten - 8th Ed.

Waves. Waves Transport energy over a body of waterTransport energy over a body of water.

Waves. What is a wave?  a transmission of energy through matter.

Waves. Wave: A periodic disturbance in a solid, liquid, or gas as energy is transmitted through a medium (such as air, water, or rock).

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Key Ideas Describe the formation of waves and the factors that affect wave size. Explain how waves interact with the coastline. Identify the cause of destructive.

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Ocean Waves and Tides.

Lab 5 WAVES. What is waves ? how do waves form? Wave is a movement of upper surface of water due to transfer of energy from the wind into the water without.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Chapter 16.2 Waves and Tides.

Waves, Tides, and Currents

Waves and Tides Notes.

Ocean Waves Text Book Page #

16.2 – Waves and Tides.

Ocean Waves and Tides.

Waves in the Ocean.

Lets Review! Handout 10 Waves

Lesson 9: Waves Physical Oceanography

Tides Tides are long waves that move through the oceans in response to the forces exerted by the moon and sun. Tides originate near the middles of oceans.

Motions of the Ocean.

Waves And Tides.

Waves Transmit __________ (not __________) across the ocean’s surface

Parts of a Wave Defined:

Ocean Waves and Tides.

How do the oceans move? Waves, Currents, Tides

Ocean Movements 15.3.

Ocean Waves and Tides.

Presentation transcript:

Fur Fun: Riding Giants http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYQQtxb8wv0

Class 28 WAVES IN THE OCEAN Origin/Types Parameters -- how we describe waves Orbital motion Wind-generated waves

Waves: Origins/Types 1. Wind-generated waves -- most common 2. Tsunamis -- earthquake-generated (Pacific) 3. Tides -- gravity of Moon, Sun; forces in Earth's rotation 4. Seiches -- standing waves, “bathtub”

Wave Parameters: How do we state the height, spacing, etc? Crest and Trough Height = H Wavelength = L Steepness = H/L

More Wave Parameters: Period (time between crest arrivals) = T Speed of an individual wave: S = L/T Speed of a wave group = V (V < S) Water Depth = D

Interference between two waves Destructive Interference

Interference between two waves Constructive Interference

Orbital Motion of Water in Waves Circular motion of water as a wave passes Amount of motion decreases with depth No motion at D > 1/2 L In deep water, waves are unaffected by the ocean bottom

Orbital Motion: Shallow Water Waves In shallow water, the circular motion becomes “flattened” near the bottom The wave “feels bottom”, and motion is impeded by the bottom

Shallow Water Waves If D < 1/20L --> Shallow-water waves If D >1/2L --> Deep-water waves In between 1/20L and 1/2L: intermediate waves

http://www.montereyinstitute.org/noaa/lesson09.html

Shallow Water Wave Model Deep Water Wave Model is different from Shallow Water Wave Model Deep water wave model applies when D > ½ x L Shallow water wave model applies when D < 1/20 x L (no simple model for the in-between waves)

Shallow Water Waves If D < 1/20L --> Shallow-water waves If D >1/2L --> Deep-water waves In between 1/20L and 1/2L: intermediate waves

WAVES IN THE OPEN OCEAN Caused by wind D > 1/2 L Deep-water waves H = 1 - 15 m L = 50 - 500 m T = 5 - 20 sec S = 30 -100 km/hr

Deep Water Waves: 1. Wavelength, L, depends on period, T L = (g/2π)T2 (g = 9.8 m/s2) 2. Speed = S = L/T, so.... S = 1.56 m/s2 x T The bottom line: a) Both C and L increase with increasing T b) If you measure T, you can calculate S and L

Size and speed of wind-generated waves Wind speed (most important) Wind duration Wind fetch (the distance over which wind blows in one direction) Increase speed, duration, fetch --> increase H, T, L, C

Dispersion: Waves moving away from a stormy area Waves with long L have highest speed Short L waves weaken Long waves dissipate more slowly This gives us "swells" -- long-T waves