Fur Fun: Riding Giants http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYQQtxb8wv0.

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Presentation transcript:

Fur Fun: Riding Giants http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYQQtxb8wv0

Class 28 WAVES IN THE OCEAN Origin/Types Parameters -- how we describe waves Orbital motion Wind-generated waves

Waves: Origins/Types 1. Wind-generated waves -- most common 2. Tsunamis -- earthquake-generated (Pacific) 3. Tides -- gravity of Moon, Sun; forces in Earth's rotation 4. Seiches -- standing waves, “bathtub”

Wave Parameters: How do we state the height, spacing, etc? Crest and Trough Height = H Wavelength = L Steepness = H/L

More Wave Parameters: Period (time between crest arrivals) = T Speed of an individual wave: S = L/T Speed of a wave group = V (V < S) Water Depth = D

Interference between two waves Destructive Interference

Interference between two waves Constructive Interference

Orbital Motion of Water in Waves Circular motion of water as a wave passes Amount of motion decreases with depth No motion at D > 1/2 L In deep water, waves are unaffected by the ocean bottom

Orbital Motion: Shallow Water Waves In shallow water, the circular motion becomes “flattened” near the bottom The wave “feels bottom”, and motion is impeded by the bottom

Shallow Water Waves If D < 1/20L --> Shallow-water waves If D >1/2L --> Deep-water waves In between 1/20L and 1/2L: intermediate waves

http://www.montereyinstitute.org/noaa/lesson09.html

Shallow Water Wave Model Deep Water Wave Model is different from Shallow Water Wave Model Deep water wave model applies when D > ½ x L Shallow water wave model applies when D < 1/20 x L (no simple model for the in-between waves)

Shallow Water Waves If D < 1/20L --> Shallow-water waves If D >1/2L --> Deep-water waves In between 1/20L and 1/2L: intermediate waves

WAVES IN THE OPEN OCEAN Caused by wind D > 1/2 L Deep-water waves H = 1 - 15 m L = 50 - 500 m T = 5 - 20 sec S = 30 -100 km/hr

Deep Water Waves: 1. Wavelength, L, depends on period, T L = (g/2π)T2 (g = 9.8 m/s2) 2. Speed = S = L/T, so.... S = 1.56 m/s2 x T The bottom line: a) Both C and L increase with increasing T b) If you measure T, you can calculate S and L

Size and speed of wind-generated waves Wind speed (most important) Wind duration Wind fetch (the distance over which wind blows in one direction) Increase speed, duration, fetch --> increase H, T, L, C

Dispersion: Waves moving away from a stormy area Waves with long L have highest speed Short L waves weaken Long waves dissipate more slowly This gives us "swells" -- long-T waves