Wave and Current Erosion

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Presentation transcript:

Wave and Current Erosion Earth Science Mr. Cloud

How do waves form? waves passing through deep water create brief circular water movements when waves enter shallow water, they drag against the bottom, causing them to become unstable and eventually break! Wind Direction

Cowabunga ! What makes Hawaii such a great surfing location?

Why are the waves in Hawaii and California much larger than the waves on the east coast? the prevailing winds the continental shelf the ocean fetch

Wave Refraction Breaking waves continually pound against the shore, unleashing a great amount of energy Refraction, or bending, commonly occurs making waves arrive at an angle to the shore. Refraction concentrates energy on parts of the land protruding from the shore causing them to erode away.

Longshore Current water current moving parallel to the beach caused by refracting waves constantly hitting the shore at the same angle

Long Island Barrier Beaches (Photo taken by the Space Shuttle) Long Island Sound We are here- Barrier Islands <---------------------Direction of Longshore current Atlantic Ocean

Features of Wave Erosion/ Depostion Sandbars: mounds of deposited sediment near the zone of break sandbars barrier beaches barrier islands South Shore of Long Island

Features of Wave Erosion/ Depostion Sea Stacks Sea Caves Sea Arches Sea Stacks at Port Campbell National Park, southwestern Victoria, Australia

Features of Wave Erosion/ Depostion Sea arch Volcanoes National Park, Hawaii