AIM: How do waves shape the Shoreline? Do Now: In your notes answer the following questions. Think about the times you were at the beach. Maybe you built a sand castle near the shore line. What would the waves do to your castle?

I. Formation of Waves Waves are created by the transfer of energy from the atmosphere to the hydrosphere (wind creates waves). Storms increase the activity of waves.

Longshore Drift: flows parallel to the beach and carries large amounts of sediment. - This current easily moves fine sediment and rolls larger sediment along the bottom.

II. Wave Erosion Waves pick up and move sediment from the shore line. The smallest sediment is carried the farthest. this sediment causes abrasion to occur forming Sea Arches and Sea Stacks

III. Wave Deposition - The accumulation of sediment along the shore is called the beach. A. Sand bars: shifting mounds of sand in the ocean near the shore. B. Barrier Islands (beaches): Permanent larger sand bars that create bays. - Long beach and Fire Island

IV. Beach Preservation - Groins, Jetties, sea walls and breakwaters all protect a coast from erosion by stopping the wave and making sediment deposit. Deposition Wave direction

- The side of the groin with deposited sand is where the wave is coming from. Wave path

N Where are the waves coming from? W E S

Closure: Obtain a worksheet on Waves. With the person sitting next to you use the notes to answer the questions on the handout.

1. Where is the longshore wave coming from? 2. Jetties keep sand from being eroded away from the beach. They catch the sand and force the wave to deposit it nea2 the jetties.

3. Wave erosion creates sea arches and sea mounts because of differential weathering by the waves. Wave deposition creates sand bars and barrier islands due to deposition of the sand.

Process Differences Similarities Glacier Wind Wave