OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE New Emulsifier of Vegetal Origin Good afternoon. The topic I’m going to discuss concerns two new emulsifiers of vegetal source.

Steps Vegetal Path Emulsifying properties How to use Sensory profiles In the steps of the presentation we will see something about the natural source of the two ingredients. Then we will evaluate the emulsifier properties studied in a systematic approach. After that I will summarize their characteristic in order to show how to use the two emulsifiers in a easy way. Finally we will see the sensory characteristic that the two ingredients give to the finished formulas.

OLIVOIL PRODUCT Cold pressing: Olive oil 75% OILS SATURATED LIPID CHAINS MONO-UNSATURATED LIPID CHAINS POLY-UNSATURATED LIPID CHAINS OLIVE OIL 16% 75% 9% PEANUT OIL 19% 53% 28% SUNFLOWER OIL 11% 33% 50% CORN OIL 5% 31% SOYA OIL 4% 23% 59% COCONUT OIL 87% 6% 2% The main characteristics of both ingredients is the presence of a complex of lipid derived from Olive oil. As we known the olive oil is widely preferred to other vegetable oils for its high amount of mono-unsaturated fatty acids, that exhibits well-known properties of integration with the body physiology.

OLIVE OIL 75% Mono-unsaturated ~ 2% Unsaponifiable fraction Better stability Body physiology ~ 2% Unsaponifiable fraction (Tocopherols, Polyphenols 18-35%) Powerful Antioxidant Reducing oxidative stress Avoiding lipids peroxidation Moreover the mono-unsatured fraction guarantees a better stability of the total lipid complex. The stability and the functionality of the complex of lipids is also guaranteed by the relatively high content of unsaponifiable fraction rich in polyphenols and tocopherols. This fraction is kept unchanged in the finished material.

Multi-functional combination Olive Oil Vegetal source Lipidic chains complex Hydrophilic molecules Indeed the idea is the chemical combination of the complex of the lipidic chains, derived from olive oil, with hydrophilic molecules of known performances. In this way a multi-functional ingredients suitable for innumerable cosmetics formulations can be created. Hydrophobic Tail Hydrophilic Head

+ OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE Vegetal source Amino-acid: Glutamic Olive Oil Vegetal source Amino-acid: Glutamic Lipo-amino-acid Sodium salt Natural Source – No GMO Environmentally friendly In the case of Olivoil Glutamate, the hydrophilic head was obtained by linking to the lipid chains complex with an amino acid, Glutamic acid derived from vegetable. This ingredient can be a valid alternative to that ingredient containing hydrolyzed protein. However the bio-compatibility with the skin and the environmentally friendly properties are kept.

OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER SODIUM OLIVOYL GLUTAMATE 25-50% CETEARYL ALCOHOL 25-50% GLYCERYL STEARATE 25-50% ECOCERT (pending) Starting from the sodium salt of the lipo-amino acid molecule, the emulsifier was obtained adding the two listed co-emulsifier.

EMULSIFYING PROPERTIES Glutamate Low, Medium, High Polarity OILS Production Methods Stabilizing Polymers 10%, 20%, ...... 50% Oily Phase 2.5%, 5%, 7.5% Emulsifier Let’s pass on to emulsifier properties of the two ingredients. We evaluated their characteristics using a systematic approach: Changing the polarity of the oily phase; Changing the sequence of addition of the ingredients; evaluating the compatibility with stabilizer polymer; Changing the amount of the oily phase; finally, changing the percentage of the emulsifier.

EMULSIFYING PROPERTIES Glutamate Emulsion Homogeneity & Size Microscope Accelerated Stability Centrifuge Standard Stability 1 month @ 4°C, RT, 43°C Each emulsion was evaluated by Microscope for the homogeneity and particle size; Centrifuge for accelerate stability and STD stability for 1 month at ………

Homogeneity & Size Microscope A B C As far as the particles size and homogeneity concerned, the pictures show how we evaluated an emulsion as not fine and not homogeneous, quite fine and quite homogeneous and very fine and homogeneous. Quite fine Quite Homogeneous Not fine Not Homogeneous Very fine Homogeneous

Accelerated Stability Centrifuge 7000 G, 35°C, 30 minutes Oily phase In the accelerate stability we put the samples for 30 minutes at 35°C and 7000 Gravity force. Then we evaluated the test tube and considered the emulsion stable like in the first picture, separated like in the second picture or not physically stable like in the last picture. Water phase Stable Separation Creaming

OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE EMULSIFIER ……. briefly to the second emulsifier using the same systematic approach.

POLARITY INFLUENCE Oils @ 20% Size Centrifuge STD Stability Hydrogenated Polydecene 10-20 µ >50% - S NT Dicaprylyl Ether 6-10 µ C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3-7 µ <10% - C C Dicaprylyl Carbonate 4-6 µ Octyldodecanol 9-15 µ Sweet Almond Oil 10-20% - C OK C = Creaming NT = Not tested S = Separation

PRODUCTION METHODS Oils Size 1 2 3 Hydrogenated Polydecene 10-20 µ 5-10 µ C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 3-7 µ <2 µ 8-20 µ Sweet Almond Oil 2-5 µ 15-25 µ Accelerated stability Methods 2: Improvement with non-polar oils

HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE XANTHAN GUM Oils Size Centrifuge STD Stability Hydrogenated Polydecene <2 µ < 10% - C OK C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Sweet Almond Oil HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE Oils Size Centrifuge STD Stability Hydrogenated Polydecene <2-4 µ < 10% - C OK C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate <2 µ Sweet Almond Oil

CARBOMER Xanthan Gum Hydroxyethylcellulose Carbomer Oils Size Centrifuge STD Stability Hydrogenated Polydecene 2-4 µ < 10% - C OK C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate <2 µ Sweet Almond Oil Xanthan Gum Hydroxyethylcellulose Carbomer

% GLUTAMATE & % OILS OILY PHASE GLUTAMATE 10 – 20% 4 – 5% 30 – 40% Less powerful, so we need to use 4-5% for 10-20% of oily phase, and 6-7.5% of emulsifier for 30-40% of oily phase. 30 – 40% 6 – 7.5%

How to use: GLUTAMATE No Hydrolized Protein Emulsifier into oily phase 4 – 7.5% 10 – 40% of oily phase with polymer  L, M, H polar oils Stable @ high pH & with Salts Unstable @ low pH & with Silicones No Hydrolized Protein

Sensory Profile

Sensory Profile Olivoil Glutamate Initial perception  Very Light emulsion Spreadability  Oils related Final perception  Oils related

Formulae

Sunscreen  SPF 25 A OLIVOIL AVENATE PHASE TRADE NAME INCI NAME % w/w A OLIVOIL AVENATE POTASSIUM OLIVOYL HYDROLYZED OAT PROTEIN, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL OLEATE, GLYCERYL STEARATE 5.00   OLIVOIL GLUTAMATE SODIUM OLIVOYL GLUTAMATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.50 UVINUL A PLUS DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE 9.00 UVINUL T150 ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE 3.00 CETIOL B DIBUTYL ADIPATE 8.00 DUB 1215 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE MYRITOL 331 COCOGLYCERIDES Antioxidant q.s. B DEMIN. WATER AQUA 52.55 HYDROTROPES 0.30 ACTIVES INGRED. 0.25 COMIXAN ST/HV XANTHAN GUM C Preservatives

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