How do waves erode and deposit sediment? Today’s Objective: How do waves erode and deposit sediment?

Do all beaches have sand? A beach is any area of the shoreline made from material deposited by waves. However, a beach does not have to be only sand? No Sand sized particles Pebble sized particles

The shoreline is where the land and a body of water meet. What is the shoreline? The shoreline is where the land and a body of water meet.

What causes waves? Waves are caused by the interaction between the atmosphere and the hydrosphere.

Coasts are a balance between erosion and deposition Waves along the shoreline are constantly weathering, eroding, and depositing sediments. Coasts are a balance between erosion and deposition

Forces Acting on the Shoreline Wave Impact Abrasion Wave Refraction Longshore Transport

Forces Acting on the Shoreline Wave Impact Waves can throw thousands of tons of water against the shore causing cracks in coastal structures. Abrasion The grinding of rock fragments by the waves cause smooth rounded stones, pebbles and shells to land on the shore

Wave Refraction Waves hit the shore at a slight angle, because of this refraction headlands (or land that sticks out into the ocean) receive more erosion and the bays (areas between headlands) receive more deposition.

Longshore Transport The longshore current flows parallel to the shore and moves large amounts of sediments horizontally along the coastline. Video

Shoreline features that are caused by the removal of sediment Erosional Features Shoreline features that are caused by the removal of sediment Arches Cliffs Platforms

Depositional Features Sediments moving along the shore are deposited in areas where the water slows Spit A curved area where sand is deposited Sand Bar

Sand Bar vs Barrier Beach Barrier Beach - permanent land formation that forms between the mainland and the ocean Ex. Jones Beach and Fire Island Sand Bar – A temporary pile of sand at or above sea level Would YOU want to live on this barrier island?

Sand spits, sand bars, barrier islands, lagoons are ALL temporary features, just happening to be where the water is slow enough to drop its sediment.

Deposition due to WAVES is usually Sorted (lg to sm) Rounded Makes no sense without caption in book

Where would erosion happen? E and C Where would deposition happen? B and D

Hurricane Sandy Pre- and Post-Storm Photo Comparisons New Jersey/ New York Makes no sense without caption in book

Large erosional scarps are visible in the low cliff Deal, NJ. Large erosional scarps are visible in the low cliff

Mantoloking, NJ. Storm waves and surge cut across the barrier island, eroding a wide beach, destroying houses and roads, and depositing sand onto the island and into the back-bay. Makes no sense without caption in book

Seaside Height Pier, NJ. Storm waves and surge eroded the beach and destroyed the seaward edge of the pier and deposited the roller coaster superstructure in the ocean.

Bridgehampton, New York Bridgehampton, New York. This location is a very narrow and periodically opens during large storms. Makes no sense without caption in book

Cupsogue Beach, New York. The breach that formed during Sandy is just east of Moriches Inlet, which formed during a large nor'easter storm in 1931 and was stabilized in the 1950s.

Using this diagram complete your worksheet!