The Dynamic Ocean.

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Presentation transcript:

The Dynamic Ocean

The Dynamic Ocean Surface Circulation Deep-Ocean Circulation Waves & Wave Erosion

PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Surface Circulation

PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Surface Circulation Surface ocean currents are “rivers” with very different temperature and density than surrounding water Driven by wind blowing across ocean surface Ultimate energy source: Sun Carry warm water from tropics to poles and vice versa

Surface Current Patterns PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Surface Circulation Surface Current Patterns

Influence on Climate: The Gulf Stream PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Surface Circulation Influence on Climate: The Gulf Stream Moves warm water north from tropics Gives British Isles a temperate climate North America Water movement

Upwelling Vertical movement of water PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Surface Circulation Upwelling Vertical movement of water Deeper water moves up to replace surface water moved away by winds Depths: 150-1,000 feet Replenishes nutrients

Upwelling Upwelling along African coast PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Surface Circulation Upwelling Upwelling along African coast

Deep-Ocean Circulation PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Deep-Ocean Circulation

Deep-Ocean Circulation PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Deep-Ocean Circulation Much deeper than surface circulation or upwelling – can affect ocean floor Vertical motion driven by density differences If upper layers become denser, they sink Density controlled by temperature and salinity aka “thermohaline” circulation

Deep-Ocean Circulation PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Deep-Ocean Circulation Cold, dense surface water in polar regions sinks, driving deep-ocean circulation

PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean Waves and Wave Erosion

Ocean Waves Created by wind PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Ocean Waves Created by wind Energy propagating along water-air boundary Waves move differently in deep and shallow ocean Deep: no net movement of water, circular motion Shallow: water is displaced, linear motion

Ocean Waves PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Wave base Wave base: depth below which water does not “feel” wave Wave base = ½ wavelength

Deep ocean wave motion is circular PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Deep ocean wave motion is circular 1 5 2 6 3 7 8 4 Boat returns to starting position

Shallow ocean wave movement PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Shallow ocean wave movement Wave base

Wave Erosion Direct impact of water Abrasion by sediment in the water PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Wave Erosion Direct impact of water Abrasion by sediment in the water Rocks polished by abrasion Cliff undercut by wave impacts

Shoreline Sediment Movement PSCI 131: The Dynamic Ocean: Waves & Wave Erosion Shoreline Sediment Movement Longshore transport Beach drift Longshore currents

End of Chapter

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