Southern Methodist University The Crinoline Period 1850-1870 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013 Cutaway view of crinoline, Punch magazine, August 1856

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Historical Background England Queen Victoria exemplified the British ideal of womanhood Mid-century Britain enjoyed great prosperity Britain hosted the Great Exhibition of 1851 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Historical Background France Louis Napoleon becomes Napoleon III and the Second French Republic becomes the Second Empire France experienced economic growth and Paris was rebuilt Paris again became the center of European fashion with the help of Charles Frederick Worth Napoleon III abdicated and fled to Britain in 1870 The Second Empire vanished and was replaced by the Third Republic The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Historical Background United States Abraham Lincoln elected President in 1860 Southern states secede and form the Confederacy North vs. South in the American Civil War Lincoln issued the Emancipation Proclamation in 1863 Lincoln Assassinated in 1865 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Charles Frederick Worth The Father of Haute Couture Empress Elisabeth in Courtly Gala Dress with Diamond Stars, 1865 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873) The Empress Eugénie (Eugénie de Montijo, 1826–1920, Condesa de Teba), 1854 Franz Xaver Winterhalter (German, 1805–1873) The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture presently the Fédération française de la couture Originated in 1868 and is still active today The governing body of the French fashion industry Sets the dates and location for French fashion week Establishes industry standards on clothing Establishes standards on the use of the word “haute couture” The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Sewing Machine The Singer Sewing machine hit the market in 1851 The number of sewing machines doubled between 1860 and 1865 Became a vital factor in the development of industry The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume for Women The Crinoline Period Fashion Plate, 1853 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume for Women Cage Crinoline Steel Cage Crinoline, 1858 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Undergarments Getting Dressed Chemise Drawers Corset Crinoline Corset cover Petticoat The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume for Women Daytime dresses Day dresses, 1861 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume for Women Evening dresses Charles Frederick Worth, circa 1860 Portrait of Princesse Albert de Broglie, née Joséphine-Eléonore-Marie-Pauline de Galard de Brassac de Béarn, 1853 Jean Auguste Dominque Ingres (French, 1780-1867) The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Fashion & Celebrity The Garibaldi Blouse Giuseppe Garibaldi Past patterns #709 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Dress Reform The “Bloomer” Costume Consisted of a short skirt over Turkish Trousers Initially adopted by feminist Elizabeth Smith Miller after a trip to Europe Named for Amelia Bloomer who adopted the style and wrote about it favorably Provoked much ridicule The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume for Women A caricature sequence of posed joke photographs, circa 1860, showing five stages of putting on a crinoline The Media A packing dilemma The hazards of public transportation The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870 Costume Evolution 1850-1870 The Crinoline Period: 1850-1870

The Bustle Period and the Nineties 1870-1900 Chelsea Bell Southern Methodist University MSA 3325 Spring 2013

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Historical Background 1870-1890 England France United States Victoria had already been queen for over 30 when the bustle arrived as popular fashion Industrial England was experiencing an economic boom England experienced a gradual extension of voting rights The period began with the shock of the Franco-Prussian War Napoleon III surrendered to the Prussian armies and fled to England The Second Empire ended and was replaced by the Third Republic Paris endured a bloody Civil War known as the Commune The Civil War had ended The country was united from East to West by railroads Settlers were rapidly moving westward Industrialization, urbanization, and immigration were continuing at a rapid pace The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Evolution of the Bustle 1870-1878 1867 1873 Daytime dress, 1874 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Evolution of the Bustle 1878-1883 1877 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Evolution of the Bustle 1884-1890 1885 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Evolution of the Bustle A Visual Timeline The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Undergarments 1870-1890 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Active Sports & Clothing 1870-1890 Bathing costume, 1874 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Manufacturing Textile and Clothing Production Power looms replaced handlooms Synthetic dyes became common and were more reliable Silks were weighted Cotton fabrics were improved with mercerizing Women’s ready-to-wear clothing became available in department stores Mail-order catalogs proved successful for rural shoppers The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Visual Arts & Costume Pre-Raphaelite Dress May Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1872 Jane Morris by Dante Gabriel Rossetti, 1868 Symphony in White No 1 by James MccNeill Whistler, 1862 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress Oscar Wilde, 1882 Countess Brownlow, 1879 Couple in Aesthetic Dress, 1880s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Visual Arts & Costume Aesthetic Dress A Private View at the Royal Academy 1881 William Powell Frith The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Visual Arts & Costume Art Nouveau House of Worth, 1898 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Costume for Women The 1890s Fashion Plate, 1892 Evening gowns, 1893 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Costume for Women The 1890s Tailor-mades, 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Costume for Women The 1890s 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Costume for Women The 1890s Walking Suits, 1894 Bicycle suit, 1890s The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900

The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900 Costume for Men 1870-1900 The Bustle Period and the Nineties: 1870-1900