Presented By Adnan Mazari adnanmazari86@gmail.com TUL,CzechRepublic Sewing Machines Presented By Adnan Mazari adnanmazari86@gmail.com TUL,CzechRepublic

History:  1790:The first workable sewing machine was invented and patented by the British inventor Thomas Saint., Limitation:thread has to go all the way in the fabric with needle and mechanical fingers were used, 1830 : French tailor, Barthelemy Thimonnier (1793-1857), patented the first practical sewing machine. 1834 :The earliest idea for a double-thread sewing machine came from Walter Hunt (1796-1860) of New York in 1834. In 1851, Issac M. Singer (1811-75) patented the first rigid-arm sewing machine. 

1856:The sewing machine combination was formed consisting of Singer,Howe,Wheeler& Wilson and Grover &Baker, Other known names in the sewing machine history are Allen Wilson(reciprocating shuttle),Wheeler(Hook),Miller(button hole)

Machine: A machine is a thing that helps a person to do something by using or changing energy Definitions of sewing : Sewing or stitching is the fastening of cloth, leather, furs, and other flexible materials, using needle and thread. Sewing Machine: Any mechanical or electromechanical device used for fastening of cloth, leather, furs, and other flexible materials, using needle and thread.

Sewing machines Parts

Sewing Machine Basic Mechanism

Feed Dog and Bobbin Mechanism

Classification of Sewing machines Sewing machines can be classified or categorized by type of use (leather,button hole,carpet,etc ..) Bed shape (cylinder bed,flat bed,post bed, etc..) stitch formation (chain stitch ,lock stitch etc)

Classification of Stitch (Stitch Type):-

Class 100 - Chainstitch a : Needle thread slacks at the position where needle slightly goes up from its lowest position, and looper catches the needle thread which has become like a loop. b : Needle comes off the cloth and the cloth is fed.Looper rotates and removes the thread which the looper caught before while pulling in the needle thread. Needle bar continues going up and needlethread take-up lever lifts the thread.

c : Looper continues rotating and pulls c : Looper continues rotating and pulls in the thread in the centre of the looper and thread take-up lever tightens the thread which the looper removed before.   d : Cloth feed is finished and a stitch is formed. Needle penetrates the cloth to continue to next stitch,

Stitch Type - 101 Approximate Seam length:Thread Consumption ratio = 1:5 Single thread chainstitch’s are often used for temporary stitching

Class 200 - Hand Stitch This type of stitch is formed with one thread. It is a machine made version of traditional hand stitching sometimes referred to as Saddle Stitch. Applications of Hand Stitch Decorative stitch of suits or the like Kimono (Japanese national dress) Button sewing of coats, suits, etc. (FBS-340N-1)

Class 300 – Lockstitch Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1:2.5 for stitch type 301

Applications of Lockstitch General sewing ,2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, Decorative stitch, Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25), Pocket sewing (APW-196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210D).

Class 400 - Double Chainstitch For class 401. Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1:5.5

Stitch Type – 407 Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1 : 20 Applications of Double Chainstitch General sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc., Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600).

Class 500 - Over-edge Chainstitch Stitch Type – 503:Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1:10.5 Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-397/serging machine), Overlock sewing machine (MO-3904, Cylinder-bed overlock sewing machine (MOC-3914).

Class 600 - Covering Chainstitch Approximate Seam:Thread consumption ratio = 1:20.0 This type of stitch is formed with 4 threads: two needle threads (A) and (A1) ; one looper thread (B); and one cover thread (C). Loops of thread (A) and (A1) are passed through loops of thread (C) already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread (B) on the underside. Decorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc

Sewing Needles, A sewing needle is a long slender object with a pointed tip. The first sewing needles were made of bone or wood; modern ones are manufactured from high carbon steel wire, nickel- or gold plated for corrosion resistance. The highest quality embroidery needles are made of platinum. 1) Shank 2) Shaft 3) Groove 4) Scarf 5) Eye 6) Point

SHANK: The upper thick part of a sewing machine needle is called the shank. This part of the needle is inserted in the machine. Home sewing machine needles are composed of a flat and a round side, to assist in always having the needle in the correct position. SHAFT: The shaft of a sewing machine needle is the area from the bottom of the shank to the point. The shaft contains the groove, scarf, eye and point of the needle. GROOVE: A groove is in the side of the needle leading to the eye. The groove is a place for the thread to lay into the needle.

SCARF: The scarf is a groove out of one side of the needle. The scarf allows the bobbin case hook to intersect with the upper thread and form stitches. EYE: The eye of the needle carries the thread so the machine can keep forming stitches. POINT: The point of the needle is the first contact with the fabric and responsible for how the needle pierces the fabric.

TYPES OF SEWING NEEDLES 1. Hand sewing needles. 2. Machine sewing needles. 3. Special purpose needles. • Sharps are needles used for general sewing. They have a sharp point, a round eye and are of medium length. The difference between sharps and other sewing needles can mainly be seen in their length. • Embroidery needles, also known as Crewel needles, are identical to sharps but have a longer eye to enable easier threading of multiple embroidery threads and thicker yarns. • Betweens or Quilting needles are shorter, with a small rounded eye and are usually used for making fine stitches on heavy fabrics such as in tailoring, quilt making and other detailed handwork. •

2. MACHINE NEEDLES The most common machine needles for standard running stitch are universal &ball point needles, Category according to use are  stretch needles Jeans needles denim needles leather needles

SPECIAL PURPOSE NEEDLES:

DETERMINATION OF NEEDLE SIZE

Stitch Fault

References Grace Rogers Cooper ,the Invention of Sewing Machines,Washington 1968 Grace I. Kunz , Ruth E. Glock,Apparel Manufactruing ,Sewn product analysis,,4rth Edition, www.howstuffworks.com Thankyou