Unique Wave Dynamics of Teahupo’o, Tahiti

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Presentation transcript:

Unique Wave Dynamics of Teahupo’o, Tahiti Why is it special? Considered “Everest” of surfing, in surfing world in terms of difficulty, up to 40 foot faces Characterized as a surging wave due to sea-floor topography, but behaves like a plunging wave Result is a highly unique wave break Unique Wave Dynamics of Teahupo’o, Tahiti Max Pike

Approx 1:4 (Y:X), feet Approx 1:10 (Y:X), feet Approx 1:40 (Y:X), feet 3-4 wave types (spill, plunge, collapsing (surging/plunging hybrid) surging) Type depends on steepness Surging waves in real world (high tide), small Teahupoo is scaled up 100x Approx 1:40 (Y:X), feet

Tahiti is volcanic hotspot, steep drop off into deep water (greater than 1000 feet after only 1/3 of a mile) Wave doesn’t “feel” the bottom until ½ mile out 1:3 ratio until 150ft depth, then 1:1 Large, vertical coral reef 1:3 at 20ft depth, erosion Wave energy forced up, such force that water pulled off of reef/lagoon. Depth dropoff allows wave to break like plunging wave Wave breaks below sea level

No height to back of wave (crest/trough doesn’t exist) No height to back of wave (crest/trough doesn’t exist). Water hits bottom, has no place to go but up and back (pictures)

Normal waves break in water roughly 1 Normal waves break in water roughly 1.7x the wave height, Teahupoo only .5x height As wave size increases, water depth decreases even more (property of surging wave). Can be as shallow as 6 inches

Breaks in reef keep wave “clean” Water circulation Breaks about ½ mile offshore Shape of reef bends wave, focuses energy, “bowl”

Citation: www.surfscience.com www.surfline.com www.maps.google.com Casey, Susan. The Wave. New York: Randm House, 2010. Peralta, Stacy, dir. Riding Giants. Prod. Laird Hamilton. 2005.