This workshop covers: . Benefits of composting . Composting options . How to cold compost . Tips and common problems

Benefits of composting . Produces rich organic matter. . Increases water retention by up to 30%. . Decreases the need for fertiliser. . Reduces methane production from landfill and acts as a carbon sink capturing carbon dioxide from the atmosphere therefore reduces global warming. Around 50% of our landfill waste could be composted or recycled. On the Mornington Peninsula, around 50% of our landfill waste could be recycled or composted. On average, each Australian produces around 180 kg of food and garden waste that could be composted.

Composting options Hot compost - needs at least 1 m 3, plenty of manures and regular turning. Can reach up to 70 degrees, will kill most weed seeds and can break down in around 6 weeks. Cold compost – Less manures used, less regular turning required, will not kill all weed seeds, takes 3 to 6 months to break down.

Basic steps to composting Locate your bin in a sunny / part sun location. Start you compost pile on bare earth to attract worms and other beneficial organisms. Lay twigs and straw first to help drainage and aeration Add compost materials in layers – ‘wet’ and ‘dry’ Add ‘activators’ (manure, green manure, blood and bone or comfrey) at the start to help start the composting process. Keep compost moist. Cover to ensure you can control moisture levels. Turn regularly to aerate.

1. Get the balance right . A mix of ‘greens’ and ‘browns’ ( nitrogen / carbon rich) . Rule of thumb: 2 parts ‘green’: 1 part ‘brown’ (compacted). I.e. For everyone compost caddy of kitchen scraps add ½ a caddy of leaves/shredded newspaper etc.

The right ingredients NB: It is best to add carbon rich materials as you go rather than weekly to ensure it is it not forgotten, and to aid with aeration. . The acid in rhubarb leaves breaks down quickly and does not damage the soil. So called weekly ingredients could be added daily – two large handfuls when emptying the compost. Ashes, lime, dolomite – all alkaline and therefore should be added sparingly when required. Activators – comfrey, blood and bone, chook manure – speed up the composting process.

The wrong ingredients . Dog or cat faeces - They contain pathogens. . Bread, cake or other processed food . Meat / bones and dairy products – These will attract vermin . Diseased plant material or invasive grasses . Weed seeds. However most weeds without seeds or bulbs are OK . Acid or resin leaves e.g. Gum leaves, bay, laurel, cypress, juniper . Glossy magazine paper Items to avoid or only add in moderation . Citrus or onions peelings. So called weekly ingredients could be added daily – two large handfuls when emptying the compost. Ashes, lime, dolomite – all alkaline and therefore should be added sparingly when required. Activators – comfrey, blood and bone, chook manure – speed up the composting process.

2. Aeration . Achieve aeration by adding dry materials, turning or inserting PVC or wire tubes

3. Good moisture levels . Compost should be similar to a squeezed sponge (40 – 50% moisture). Squeeze a couple of drops of water out but no more. . Never let a compost dry out . Layer wet (green) and dry (brown) will help with aeration and prevent waterlogging.

Common problems . Compost smells bad – too wet (anaerobic). Add dry material (carbon rich) . Vinegar fly - Too wet. Add dry material or cover with 10cm of soil. Alternatively add a handful of lime. . Too many ants – Too dry. Add water or ‘wet’ material. . Rodents – Possibly attracted to meat scraps, bread or grain. Avoid adding these and use a covered bin. Mesh may be needed under the bin to deter rodents.