Installation Instructions

Important notice before you begin The PinzSSI system requires the correct voltage in order to run properly. If your alternator is weak or one of the batteries is weak or has a bad cell, the ignition system WILL NOT function correctly, or possibly not at all. You could experience backfiring and a lack of power. It is advised that you verify the voltage and charge rate before installing the system. The red coil wire must have 12 volts minimum and the yellow wire must have 22-26 volts at the solenoid to operate the internal ECM relay. The alternator diodes have to be in good condition to prevent AC from entering the vehicle wiring harness, just like any computer controlled car or truck. Proper testing the charging system is not complicated or difficult. Note- a defective starter drawing excessive current can lower ECM voltage to the point where the module will not function- no start! Be sure the fan belt is tensioned correctly. Also, the green wire from the harness MUST be grounded properly or the system may not function correctly. This means the engine must be properly tied to the frame electrically. A weak or missing ground strap could cause problems. Run a second ground to the frame if necessary. PinzSSI will not solve other mechanical issues such as carburetor jetting errors or improper synchronization, low compression, valves burned or set wrong, low fuel pressure, or electrical malfunctions! If problems persist after installing PinzSSI, have a qualified mechanic check your vehicle over before contacting us.

Original distributor, coil, and plug wires- old, inefficient 70s technology.

Your PinzSSI kit will contain these items.

Packing List Coil assembly Spark Plugs (4) Spark Plug Wires (4) Module/Harness Assembly Aluminum Stem Black plastic cap w/disc ¼” Wire loom (5’) Printed Instructions Red wire for battery tap Cable zip ties L-bracket Parts package* *Parts package includes: Butt sleeves Boot grease Vacuum plug Heat shrink Plug wire spacers Ground connection screw Drill bit Insulated wire cap Be sure to use the correct tool for crimping the butt sleeves. Otherwise, the connection may eventually fail. Don’t use pliers! This is very important! Use heat shrink on all connections.

Crimp here This heat gun and crimping tool can both be purchased at Harbor Freight Tools if you want to properly install connectors and heat shrink. Around $24 total.

Cut ignition feed here and install insulated cap. Begin by removing the coil and bracket, suppressor, and distributor. Cut off the ignition power source wire at the suppressor connection and cap.

Plug vacuum port Remove spark plugs and wires. Remove vacuum line and block the vacuum port with the provided plug. Remove the pinch clamp from the distributor and save for use on the new ignition module.

Remove the bolt near the top of the driver’s side coil spring Remove the bolt near the top of the driver’s side coil spring. This holds the heater hose clamp in place as shown. Installing the bolt is the most difficult step in installing PinzSSI.

Using the longer provided bolt, install the mounting L-bracket.

Place the pinch clamp onto the stem, move to the point where it contacts the collar. Oil lower shaft lightly, especially on the O-ring. Be sure the clamp is positioned correctly as shown, not upside-down. Remove the screw, lock washer, and flat washer from the shaft and set aside. These are used later to install the slotted disc.

Notches It is important to line up the notches correctly before installing the stem into the block. Remove the small spring visible inside the block. When the module is fully seated, install the 13 mm bolt and tighten. Note-there will be a gap between the pinch clamp and the shoulder of the stem, do not try to force it all the way in. The stem shaft can be rotated as required to line up the notches. When the stem is seated correctly, the shaft will not turn by hand, you will feel that it is engaged correctly. Never force the stem down, it should seat correctly with minimal effort. Don’t use a hammer!

This is how the stem should look once installed and fully seated This is how the stem should look once installed and fully seated. Verify that the clamp is snug and the 13mm retainer bolt is tight.

C-clip Remove screw On the module assembly, remove one screw as shown and set it aside. Loosen the other screw just enough to where no threads show through the nut insert. This will allow the c-clip to swing freely so it can be mounted on the stem. If you can’t get it to seat, remove the other screw and reinstall individually while holding the c-clip in place by hand. Note- do not install the c-clip upside down, or else the inserts will pull out when you tighten the screws.

Preparing to install the module onto the stem.

For clarity, these two photos are taken on a work bench instead of on the engine. There is a slot near the top of the stem. Carefully install the module onto the stem until the c-clip lines up with this slot and can be rotated into place. (Note- the harness must line up with the exit opening in the base. Position so the harness is as close to the engine as possible where it exits) Be patient, the clip will fall into place when the module is momentarily oriented correctly. When the clip is in place, rotate it until it engages the slot completely. (Note- the metal inserts in the c-clip must face downward as shown.) Install the screw that was removed previously. Tighten both screws equally, but do not overtighten. The module should sit square and centered on the stem.

This is how the module should be positioned, with the harness exiting close to the engine, at about 10 o’clock from this angle. Note- the slotted disc is installed at a later step.

Harness Run the harness over the top of the engine as shown. Secure the harness into place by tying to the power brake vacuum line, using the cable zip ties. Secure near the module as required.

Mount the coil onto the L-bracket using the bolt and nylon nut, tighten securely. Drill a hole next to the coil, as indicated by the arrow, for the future ground connection.

The yellow marked wire connects to the fuel stop solenoid on the front carburetor. When the key is turned on this wire supplies 12 volts to the module. Since it only draws 1/20th of an amp, it has no effect on the solenoid or breaker. The other end if this wire is already connected internally in the harness. Note- this part of the harness contains a 1W resistor of about 300 ohms. This wire must never be replaced without this resistor installed, as the module will be damaged by 24v and is not warranted as a result. The lower photo shows how the harness should look when installation is complete.

Connect the 3 wires at the end of the harness as shown Connect the 3 wires at the end of the harness as shown. Note- these photos show the 12v wire from the battery already connected. This is actually done at a later step. Orange connects to A, white connects to B, green connects to the negative terminal. Route the green ground wire as shown and connect to the chassis at the hole previously drilled, using the stainless screw and washer provided.

This schematic shows the path that voltage takes to jump 2 plugs every time that pistons are at TDC in cylinders 1-4 and 2-3. Each plug fires 3 times to ensure complete combustion. The firing order is normally 1-2-4-3 every 720 degrees of crankshaft revolution using the stock Bosch system. With PinzSSI, the plug firing alternates between cylinders 1-4 and 2-3 every 180 degrees of crankshaft revolution.

Using a 27mm socket and ratchet, rotate the engine until the notch on the pulley lines up with the pointer. Always rotate the engine clockwise while facing as shown. Never rotate the engine backwards during the following procedure, as inaccuracies may result due to gear clearances.

Included with the kit is a small bag which contains a black plastic cap, slotted disc, and 2 screws to hold the cap in place after installation is complete. Position the disc as shown and slide it to the right over the stem shaft so it is centered on the hole. Install the washer, lock washer, and screw and tighten to the point where the disc still turns freely. Note- A small amount of blue Loc-Tite is OK on the screw.

Verify that the pointer is still positioned at the pulley notch. LED Verify that the pointer is still positioned at the pulley notch. Turn the key on, but do not crank the engine. Slowly rotate the disc until the red LED comes on. Tighten the screw while holding the disc stationary, being careful not to bend or distort the disc! Rotate the engine twice, carefully watching the LED. The light should come on exactly when the notch and pointer line up. If the light comes on before or after the pointer and notch line up, loosen the pinch clamp and adjust by rotating the module/shaft until the LED comes on. Rotate the engine again and check. Repeat until you get it right, it will take several attempts. Patience pays! Check again after tightening the pinch clamp, as the timing could have changed.

The module is a computer which takes readings from the optical sensor and sends the info to the ECM. This includes RPM and rate of engine acceleration/deceleration. The ECM adjusts the ignition timing based on the input information. The timing is 0 degrees BTDC while the engine cranks, then jumps to normal advance at about 300 RPM. From there the maximum total advance reaches 38 degrees at about 3500 RPM. It is important to set the timing statically (timing set with engine not running) at 0 degrees, or TDC, because this is the reference point that the computer uses for the rest of the curve. The spark plugs fire 3 times every time the piston is at TDC, which is why you can set the timing at either the compression or exhaust stroke. Unlike other ignition systems that must fire at the top of the compression stroke, the PinzSSI fires every time at TDC. Note- a standard timing light cannot be used to check timing with the PinzSSI system.

Battery box hole 12 volt feed Route the power feed from the battery box by either 1) using the existing hole as shown or 2) drilling a hole. The photo shows using the existing hole (from under the vehicle), the same hole that the other battery cables use. The fit is tight! Leave enough slack to reach the battery terminal as shown, but do not connect at this time. Be sure to verify voltage at 12v as there are several possible battery configurations. The photo shown is just one possibility, which reflects the original factory set-up. Do not connect the red wire the 24v+ post! This will eventually damage the module and void the warranty! This wire will supply power to the coil only. Use provided plastic wire loom to cover the all wire after installation, do NOT allow the red wire to contact metal at any point!

The red battery wire feed contains an in-line fuse holder and a 10-amp fuse. Carry a spare fuse! Connect the red wire that comes from the battery to the +12 terminal on the coil. Protruding from the harness is a short green wire. This is the tachometer wire, and gives 1 pulse for every 2 crankshaft revolutions. Your tachometer may have to be adjusted for this input signal. This is a digital signal that may not work with older tachometers that rely on an analog input. If you don’t have a tach you can leave the wire as is. Do not connect the red wire at the battery until later, this will help avoid a short-circuit at the coil terminals.

Gap the plugs at .028-.030” and install. The coil pack consists of 2 coils, side by side. The coil toward the front (left) fires cylinders 2 and 3, the rear coil fires cylinders 1 and 4. The plug wires connect to 1- #1 cyl, 2- #2 cyl, 3- #3 cyl, and 4- #4 cyl. Be sure to grease the straight boots to make connecting easier. If the boots are not greased they may not come off in the future without being damaged. Note- Make sure there is a solid connection at the plugs and coil, or a serious misfire can develop.

Route the spark plug wires as shown, using the wire spacers as required.

Battery jumper wire Reconnect the battery with the new power feed. Be sure it is a 12v connection! Connect the wires as shown in the photo on the lower right. The battery jumper is at the bottom, above it is the red wire to the PinzSSI harness, then a washer, and then the knob at the top. It is important that the washer is installed between the eyelet connector and the knob to minimize stress on the eyelet. If you connect the red wire to 24 volts the coil and/or module WILL fail and is not covered by warranty! Note- the inline fuse holder is not shown.

Installation is complete Installation is complete! Your Pinzgauer should start right up at this time. With the key on, there should be 9-12 volts at A and B terminals . Between +12 and ground there should be 12-14 volts at all times. If you suspect a problem with PinzSSI, check voltages at these 3 points first, then check timing. If everything checks out then there is a problem elsewhere, possibly in the electrical system. A weak battery will always cause problems! Check the timing again after running for a minute to verify that it has not changed.

This is a typical 4-cylinder OHC engine. The 1 and 4 pistons are at TDC while pistons 2 and 3 are at BDC. This design keeps vibration to a minimum. If this were a Pinzgauer engine, the plugs in 1 and 4 cylinders would be firing, regardless of which cylinder is at the beginning the of the power stroke.

Troubleshooting Trigger slot Optical pickup If you suspect trouble with the PinzSSI, take these troubleshooting steps before asking for assistance. To verify power to the module (at right), remove the fuse at the battery. Using a dry Q-tip, clean the tiny window under the optical pickup. Make sure that the ground connection next to the coil is good. Turn on the key, and rotate the engine until the trigger slot passes under the optical pickup. The red LED next to the pickup should turn on. If it doesn’t, verify 24 volts at the fuel solenoid. If there is voltage at the solenoid, the problem is with the module or harness. Trigger slot Optical pickup If the power to the module is good, rotate the engine until the LED goes out and reinsert the fuse at the battery. Key on, using a voltmeter, put the black lead on the negative screw (green). With the red lead on screw A there should be a reading of approximately 8-12 volts, the reading should be the same on B. The red lead from the battery should read battery voltage, about 12.6 to 13.6v. If it is 0 the fuse could be blown. Disconnect the yellow lead from the solenoid. While cranking the engine (it won’t start with the yellow lead disconnected), measure battery voltage between green and red. If it drops 5% or more, there could be a problem with the battery and it should be fully charged and then load tested. PinzSSI will not start if the battery voltage drops below a certain threshold, a bad alternator or bad battery can cause this.

CAUTION  NGK BPR6ES resistor spark plugs included with the kit MUST be used at all times, along with resistor plug wires. Always replace the spark plugs/wires with the same resistor type. Failure to do so could damage the module or result in poor performance. Or both! Replacement wires need to be 800 ohms/ft. PinzSSI has individual replacement wires in stock for $10 each or $35/set delivered. Add $15 for 4 new spark plugs.   Never crank the engine with any spark plug wires disconnected, unless you have the red wire disconnected from the battery. Failure to do so could damage the ignition coil or module very quickly. PinzSSI cannot give advice on how to repair your Pinzgauer other than how to install or troubleshoot this ignition. Contact a good mechanic if prior problems persist after installation. Questions? Comments? Need parts? Then contact us at pinzssi@outlook.com or call 760-775-5160. We promptly return all calls if you leave a message.