Unit 7 Waves & Beaches.

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Presentation transcript:

Unit 7 Waves & Beaches

Topic 3 Wave Sets Wave trains - groups of waves with the same wavelength that travel together. When two wave trains intersect, they are called Interference Patterns. Interfering waves sets can produce exceptionally high waves when the crest of two waves come together. Very low troughs are created when 2 troughs come together. http://users.dickinson.edu/~richesod/waves/train.html

Wave reinforcement - the combining of the energy of the wave sets is Surf beats - regular series of low waves followed by several high waves within a 2 to 3 minute period. caused by wave interference patterns. due to the varying height of groups of waves breaking on the shore.

Topic 4 Wind Waves Wind is the primary source of energy for waves. Light winds blowing over calm waters causes the water to ruffle. As it continues to blow ripples begin to appear and they grow into waves. The force of the wind depends on: duration – length of time the wind has been blowing fetch – the distance over which the wind is blowing average speed of the wind over the fetch

Sea States – Wave conditions at Sea Wind blowing over the surface produces friction which drags the water into: Ripples – small wavelets averaging about 8cm in height Chop – develops when wind pushes rippples into waves about 1 meter high (winds increase in velocity) Storm waves – form when winds are of gale force intensity (more than 70km/hour)

Fetch – the distance over which the wind is blowing

The longer the storms duration and fetch and the greater the storms intensity, the higher the waves. Hurricanes (typhoons and tropical cyclones) – violent storms with winds exceeding 105 km/hour Form huge waves of over 14 meters high. - Hurricanes with winds of over 200 km/hr may reach fetches of 240 to 345 km from the center of the storm.

Sea Swells Term used to describe a confused mixture of waves. Seas can include ripples, chop, wind waves, storm waves and swells. Swells Waves that have traveled beyond their generation area or fetch. They do not need any more wind to push them along. (mature waves)

Ocean Wave Organization Ocean waves are organized in a variety of ways. These include: wave trains cross seas developing seas fully developed seas

Developing seas means that waves are growing larger. Cross Seas are interference patterns formed when 2 or more wave trains intersect. Waves may cross each at different angles or they may come from the same direction but have different wave lengths and periods. These are sometimes called confused seas. Developing seas means that waves are growing larger. Waves do not continue to grow indefinitely. When the waves stop growing the sea state is described as fully developed seas.

Fully developed sea is one where the energy supplied by the wind is equal to the energy lost in breaking waves. Recall wave trains are groups of waves with the same wavelength that travel together.