EU Ecolabel Criteria revision for ‘Footwear’ EUEB Meeting EU Ecolabel Criteria revision for ‘Footwear’ Joint Research Centre (JRC) IPTS - Institute for Prospective Technological Studies Seville - Spain http://ipts.jrc.ec.europa.eu/ http://www.jrc.ec.europa.eu/

Discussion Points: Overall update on criteria development process: Stakeholder´s feedback- key issues 23 February 2019

Scope and definition The product group ‘footwear’ shall comprise all articles of clothing designed to protect or cover the foot, with applied sole which comes into contact with the ground. Footwear covered by PPE Directive are included in the scope. Functional unit: Female: 37 Paris points Male: 42 Paris points Children: 32 Paris points 23 February 2019

Emission from the production of materials 1. PROPOSAL: Content Crtotal Tannery waste water after treatment shall contain less than x mg/L total ChromiumC 2. BAT-AELs: average monthly values are 1-0.3 mg/l 3. Leather Working Group: -Not measured: 0 points >2 ppm : 0 points -1.6-2 ppm : 1 point -1.2-1.6 ppm: 2 points -0.8-1.2ppm: 3 points -0.4-0,8 ppm: 4 points -<0.4 ppm : 5 points 23 February 2019

Rubber/sythetic rubber/latex production The only reference found is Blue Angel for Footwear No feedback provided on ths criterion No other references have been found to set a benchmark 23 February 2019

1.Production stages: e.g. APEOs, Solvents, Biocides, RSL: structure 1.Production stages: e.g. APEOs, Solvents, Biocides, 2.Dyehouse and printing process: e.g. CMR Dyes, Halogenated organic carriers 3.Finishing process: e.g. Biocides (anti-microbial treatment), water repellents, flame retardants 4.Final product: (indication of material applicability): e.g. N-nitrosamines, PAHs, heavy metals Proposal received: Cr total in line with Blue Angel, and vinyl monomer residue

Possible derogation request communicated by stakeholders Nickel, Derogation requests No derogation following JRC template has been submitted Possible derogation request communicated by stakeholders Nickel, Biocide TCMTB, H400 in final product, Cross check with EU Ecolabel for Textile and Bed Matrasses 23 February 2019

A&V: Detection limit of testing methods proposed Stakeholders proposed to include the exact threshold limit is included. Quantification of substance content is linked to the state-of the-art of the detection limit of analytical procedure. Dynamism of threshold adjustment level is limitted Example Cr (VI): Test method ISO 17075 Detection limit 3 ppm, Allergy exposure 1-3 ppm 23 February 2019

VOC emission, Proposal: <18 g/pair, : Determination according to EN 14602 23 February 2019

Packaging Where cardboard boxes or paper bags are used for the final packaging of footwear, they shall be made of 100 % recycled material. When other material plastic bags are used for the final packaging of footwear, it shall be made of at least, 75 % recycled material, and it should be recyclable or reusable. or they shall be biodegradable or compostable, in agreement with the definitions provided by the EN 13432.   23 February 2019

Natural material Stakeholders proposed to introduce material weight/surface xx% threshold of for which the material origin criterion shall apply Alignment of cotton requirements with EU Ecolabel for Textile criterion Organic cotton min 10% content of for shoe uppers min 95% content for linings and children footwear IPM cotton min 20% content for shoe uppers min 60% content for linings and children footwear 23 February 2019

Leather: Market segmentation Material origin Leather: Market segmentation Source: FAO, 2011 Source: COTANCE, 2012

Feedback Proposed criteria not to be considered within the on-going revision revision: Use of recycled materials Post-consumer waste PVC usage Criteria proposed not to be change: Energy consumption: The energy consumption at the manufacturing stage shall be declared 23 February 2019

Thank you for your attention Follow-up contacts Oliver Wolf Tel +34 954 48 82 96 e-mail: oliver.wolf@ec.europa.eu Malgorzata Kowalska Tel. +34 954 48 84 26  e-mail: malgorzata-agata.kowalska@ec.europa.eu European Commission, Joint Research Centre (JRC) Institute for Prospective Technological Studies (IPTS) Sustainable Production and Consumption Unit Edificio EXPO C/ Inca Garcilaso 3 41092 Sevilla, SPAIN Website: http://susproc.jrc.ec.europa.eu/footwear