+ Fashion

Fabric for Fashion / Clive Hallett and Amanda Johnston Section 2 Plant fibres: Cotton

Objectives Describe the history of cotton Understand the key fibre properties of cotton Explain the process of cotton cultivation and production Identify the different types of luxury cotton Summarize the ecological and sustainable issues regarding cotton

The history of cotton Cultivation started almost simultaneously in India and South America First produced 6000 years ago along banks of Indus River (now Pakistan) Exported to Mesopotamia (now Iraq) and on to Egyptians of Nile valley

The history of cotton Cotton also indigenous to Central and South America; important to the cultures of pre- Spanish Peru Important fibre in late medieval Europe Cotton well known around globe by 1500s All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

The history of cotton By 16th century cotton cultivated throughout warmer regions of Asia and the Americas  In 18th and 19th centuries, India’s important cotton industry sabotaged during British colonial rule; India only supplied less valuable raw material All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

The history of cotton Industry Industrial Revolution boosted manufacturing Spinning jenny (1764) and spinning frame (1769) enabled spinning of multiple yarns Invention of cotton gin in U.S. (1794) fundamental to mass production of cotton  

The history of cotton English weavers able to produce to higher and more consistent standard Textile production became Britain’s leading export Manchester capital of global cotton trade – nicknamed ‘cottonopolis’

The history of cotton American cotton after the Civil War Emancipation of slaves did not diminish importance of southern cotton Labour forces of black farmers worked on white- owned plantations for a share of the profits – sharecropping Cotton handpicked until the 1950s Sophisticated machines to pick cotton introduced in 1950s that would not damage crops

The history of cotton Cotton market One third of all global raw cotton is traded internationally  Production and export of cotton involves over 100 countries Employs 350 million people in its farming, production, transportation and manufacturing All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

The history of cotton China largest producer and consumer of raw cotton; supplements domestic production with imported raw material India, Pakistan and Turkey also supplement domestic raw cotton production to fulfil export of finished goods The cotton belt (southern U.S.) is second largest producer of raw cotton The U.S. and Israel are the two highest-cost cotton producers  

Cotton fibre Cotton most commonly used natural fibre Soft fibre that grows around the seeds of cotton plant Native of tropical and subtropical regions Untreated cotton fabric has a matt lustre, soft drape and smooth touch Cotton garments have a good level of moisture absorption All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Cotton production Cultivation requires long, frost-free periods, plenty of sunshine and moderate rainfall   Also cultivated in areas with less rain, water being obtained by irrigation 100 million rural households around the world involved in cotton production

Cotton production Cotton still mainly picked by hand in developing world Less than 10% picked weight lost in subsequent production processes Staple length, colour, cleanliness and micronaire determine price Once cleaned the fibre is carded and spun into yarn

Luxury cotton Longer staple fibres withstand extra combing processes Egyptian cotton: only if extra-long staple Gossypium barbdensa or hirsutum species Sea Island cotton (Gossypium barbdensa): anti-fungal properties Pima cotton (Gossypium barbdensa): Supima® 100% American-grown Pima cotton with guaranteed staple length (of more than 3.5 cm)  

Luxury cotton Mercerized cotton: treatment rendering yarn/fabric smooth and lustrous Cotton lisle: similar to mercerized cotton in that all the lint is burnt off Filo di Scozia®: top grade two-ply, combed long-staple double mercerized Cotton cupro: made from cellulose fibres from discarded lintners; cotton properties look and feel like silk

Ecological and ethical considerations Carbon footprint – 30% of harvested cotton for T-shirt production is shipped to a second country for manufacturing Pesticides/insecticides – prevalent in the developing world; some sources attribute deaths to their use GM cotton – reduces use of insecticides  Water consumption – thirsty crop presents problems to some countries  

Ecological and ethical considerations Subsidies – 53% of global cotton is government subsidized  FAIRTRADE® – certification that farmers receive market price for sustainable production Ethical trading – business model that aims to ensure acceptable minimum labour standards are met in the supply chain All images in this presentation are subject to copyright. Copyright owners are listed in the book. By downloading these presentations you agree that they are for classroom use only.

Ecological and ethical considerations Organic cotton   Organic cotton relies on crop rotation and use of natural enemies to suppress harmful insects More expensive to produce; represents small percentage of global production Naturally coloured cotton   Peruvian Pima and Tangüis cotton are naturally coloured and organically grown Requires minimal maintenance, no fertilizers, is insect resistant and less thirsty

Key points One third of all global raw cotton is traded internationally; China and U.S. are largest producers Cotton is a soft fibre; garments have a good level of moisture absorption Cotton cultivation requires sunshine and moderate rainfall; processing involves harvesting, ginning (to turn into fibre), spinning and weaving Egyptian, Sea Island and Pima cotton are marketed as luxury varieties; mercerized cotton, cotton lisle and Filo di Scozia® represent luxury processing techniques Ecological and ethical considerations include carbon footprint, the use of pesticides, GM cotton, and high levels of water consumption