LESSON – 12 DRAFTING METHOD OF SHIRT BLOCK FOR ABNORMAL FIGURES

INTRODUCTION Human body - have different abnormalities – e.g. corpulent, stooping (forward-stance), erect, (backward stance ), square shoulder, prominent hips etc. While cutting shirt for abnormal figure, points keep on mind – must modify – otherwise fitting problems created – different figures need different modifications

CORPULENT FIGURE - waist round is more than chest - back pushes inside Salient features of a corpulent figure : - waist round is more than chest - back pushes inside - heavy body ( the SCALE is necessary for this figure- scale = 1/3 chest + 15 cm )

CONSTRUCTION LINES FOR CORPULENT FIGURE SHIRT Measurements : length – 76 cm, chest – 114 cm shoulder - 48 cm , waist length- 46 cm sleeve length –62 cm, cuff – 25 – 6 cm abdomen round – 120 cm neck – 40 cm abdomen point - 52 cm scale – 53 cm abdomen difference -6 cm ,

CONSTRUCTION LINES FRONT : 0-1= length + 4cm + 6-7 = 1/12 scale 0-2 = waist length 0-3 = abdomen point 0-4 = ½ scale – 1.5 cm 0-5 = 1 ¾ for button stand 0-6 = ½ shoulder +1 cm 6-7 = 1/12 scale 0-8 = 1/6 neck 0-9 = 1/6 neck 4-10 = ¼ chest + 5 cm 2-11 = ¼ chest + 4 cm 3-12 = ¼chest +5+½ 0f abdomen difference 5 – 13 = 4 cm for placket facing

CONSTRUCTION LINES BACK : 7 – 14 = 1 cm Join this point to centre back line on fold On hem, at side seam, decrease 1 cm BACK YOKE : 0-1 = 1/8 chest + 1.5 cm 0-2 = ½ shoulder + 1cm 1-3 = 0-2 0-4 = 1/6 neck + ¾ cm 0-5 = 1/6 neck 2-6 = 1/12 scale

CONSTRUCTION LINES SLEEVE : ( half ) 0-1 = sleeve length 0-2 = 1/4 scale 0-3 = ½ scale 1-4 = 4 cm for turning 4-5 = 0-3 5-6 = 2 cm COLLAR : 0-1 = 8 cm 1-2 & 0-3 = ½ neck 1-4 = 1.5 cm 4-5 = 4.2 cm 5-6 & 4-7 = 1-2 6-8 = 1.5 cm

CONSTRUCTION LINES STAND : 0-1 = 4.7 cm 0-2 & 1-3 = ½ neck A & B is the midpoint of 1-3 & 0-2 5-8 = 2 cm 8-9 = 0.5 cm PATCH POCKET : 0-1 = 1/6 chest + 1.5 0-2 = 1/6 chest 1-3 = 0-2