Effect of Knitting Variables on Reference Dimensions STARFISH Workshop

Reference Dimensions The dimensions of a fabric, i.e. Courses per unit length Wales per unit width Weight per unit area measured after laundering using the STARFISH Reference Relaxation procedure STARFISH Workshop

Reference Dimensions Are determined by the key knitting variables Yarn Quality (type, count, twist) Average Stitch Length STARFISH Workshop

Yarn Quality Variables that affect the Reference Dimensions are Average Yarn Count Yarn Type Twist Multiple Fibre Quality STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Count on Loop Size Finer Yarn Heavier Yarn STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Count on Stitch Density 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 Courses or Wales / cm Relaxed Plain Jersey, dyed & finished Courses Ne 18 Ne 28 Ne 38 Wales 2.2 2.4 2.6 2.8 3.0 3.2 3.4 3.6 3.8 4.0 4.2 Loop Length mm STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Count At the same Stitch Length Finer Yarn: Fewer Courses More Wales Lighter Weight Coarser Yarn: More Courses Fewer Wales Heavier Weight STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Type: OE Rotor vs Ring Plain Jersey, Ne 1/30 65 60 55 Courses Ring spun Courses or Wales / 3cm 50 Rotor spun 45 40 35 Wales 0.28 0.30 0.32 0.34 0.36 Loop Length, cm STARFISH Workshop

Ring Spun vs OE Rotor Spun At the same Yarn Count & Stitch Length Ring Spun yarn: Fewer Courses More Wales Rotor Spun yarn: More Courses Fewer Wales STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Type: Singles vs Folded Single Jersey Grey Reference 65 1/30 Ne 2/60 Ne Courses 55 Stitches per 3 cm 45 Wales 35 0.27 0.29 0.31 0.33 0.35 0.37 Loop Length cm STARFISH Workshop

Singles vs Folded Yarn At the same Yarn Count & Stitch Length Singles Yarn More Courses More Wales Heavier Weight Folded Yarn Fewer Courses Fewer Wales Lighter Weight STARFISH Workshop

Yarn Twist Multiple Influenced by basic fibre quality fibre preparation method of spinning efficiency of spinning properties required end use STARFISH Workshop

Yarn Twist Multiple Influences basic Yarn Properties strength bulk hairiness stiffness abrasion resistance but also affects Yarn Twist Liveliness STARFISH Workshop

Twist Liveliness For yarns of similar quality Twist Liveliness is related to the Number of Turns per unit length More turns - more twist lively Fewer turns - less twist lively STARFISH Workshop

High Twist Liveliness Causes SPIRALITY in Single Jersey fabrics twisting in garments Higher Density of Courses & Wales in all fabrics Greater SHRINKAGE up to about 3 percentage points STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Twist on Courses Interlock Ne 1/30 Bleached 52 TM 3.8 48 TM 3.4 TM 3.0 Relaxed Courses / 3cm 44 40 36 0.32 0.34 0.36 0.38 0.40 Loop Length, cm STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Yarn Twist on Wales Interlock Ne 1/30 Bleached 45 TM 3.8 43 TM 3.4 TM 3.0 Relaxed Wales / 3cm 41 39 37 0.32 0.34 0.36 0.38 0.40 Loop Length cm STARFISH Workshop

Cotton Fibre Quality Fibre Quality determines Yarn Strength Yarn Regularity Amount of Twist Dyeing properties but also affects Reference Dimensions STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Cotton Type Two matched sets of 27 different Interlock qualities averaged over Twist Multiple & Stitch Length Courses Wales Ne 22 Texas California 12.82 12.59 10.42 10.62 Ne 26 14.09 13.69 15.03 14.88 11.44 11.59 12.20 12.48 Ne 30 Mean Fibre Effect % +1.9 -1.8 STARFISH Workshop

Effect of Cotton Fibre Micronaire Value Interlock: Ne 1/30, three twist levels Courses or Wales per cm 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 Seven different cottons Courses Wales Micronaire Value 2.4 2.8 3.2 3.6 4.0 4.4 STARFISH Workshop

Stitch (Loop) Length The KEY Dimensional control parameter is the average LENGTH of yarn in the KNITTED LOOP STARFISH Workshop

Stitch (Loop) Length Shorter Longer STARFISH Workshop

Courses & Wales vs 1 / Loop Length Relaxed Plain Jersey, Ne 18 to Ne 50 9 12 15 18 21 24 27 Courses or Wales / cm Courses Wales 2.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 Reciprocal Loop Length 1/L STARFISH Workshop

Stitch (Loop) Length For a given Yarn Count Shorter Stitch More Courses More Wales Heavier Weight Longer Stitch Fewer Courses Fewer Wales Lighter Weight STARFISH Workshop

Crosstuck (piqué) Fabrics Single Double Six-thread knit tuck STARFISH Workshop

Run-in Ratio (piqué fabrics) For Crosstuck fabrics with an all-knit course Knit & Tuck Course Length All-Knit Course Length Run-in Ratio = Run-in Ratio greater than 1.0 K&T longer than All-Knit Run-in Ratio less than 1.0 K&T shorter than All-Knit STARFISH Workshop

Run-in Ratio (piqué fabrics) Affects fabric appearance Affects Reference Dimensions because stitch length is different between courses Affects Reference Weight because total yarn length per unit area is different Size of the effect depends on Construction STARFISH Workshop

Single Crosstuck (piqué) Compared to Run-in Ratio = 1.0 Increasing K&T Stitch Length decreases Courses & Wales decreases Weight Decreasing K&T Stitch Length increases Courses & Wales increases Weight STARFISH Workshop

Six-thread Crosstuck (piqué) Compared to Run-in Ratio = 1.0 Increasing K&T Stitch Length decreases Courses & Wales increases Weight Decreasing K&T Stitch Length increases Courses & Wales decreases Weight STARFISH Workshop

It Follows That … For Crosstuck fabrics with an all-knit course both the All-Knit stitch length, and the Knit & Tuck stitch length must be … Correctly specified Accurately measured Effectively controlled STARFISH Workshop

Two-thread Fleece Compared to Plain Jersey … the presence of an Inlay (backing) yarn causes Reduced Course Density Reduced Wale Density Increased Weight Wales are affected more than Courses STARFISH Workshop

Two Thread Fleece: 24 Ne Series Finished, Reference State Psj Courses or Wales / cm 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 Inlay = 20 Ne 16 Ne 14 Ne 12 Ne Courses Psj Wales Reciprocal Loop Length 1/L 2.6 2.7 2.8 2.9 3.0 3.1 STARFISH Workshop

Compared to Plain Jersey Two-thread Fleece Compared to Plain Jersey The heavier the Inlay yarn count, the greater is the reduction in stitch density The greater the difference between Face and Inlay yarn counts, the greater is the difference between Plain Jersey and Two-Thread Fleece STARFISH Workshop

Two-thread Fleece For a given combination of Face & Inlay Fabric Weight is influenced mainly by the Stitch Length of the Inlay yarn Fabric Dimensions are influenced mainly by the Stitch Length of the Face yarn Correct specification, accurate measurement and effective control of both stitch lengths is essential STARFISH Workshop

Knitting Machine Variables Machine Gauge & Diameter Do not affect the Reference Dimensions provided that the knitted Yarn Count and Stitch Length are the same Number of Needles Determines the Reference Width Width = Needles / Wales Knitting specification must always include Number of Needles not just Gauge & Diameter STARFISH Workshop

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