We certify who works for a better world

September 2000 ICEA - Institute for Ethical and Environmental Certification, was founded in Rome as a Consortium with external activities Carries out control and certification activities of organic and typical products, and in general for all products and services with a high ethical, social and environmental value ICEA members AIAB – Italian Association for Organic Agricolture ANAB – National Association for Bioecological Architecture ACU – Consumer Association Banca Popolare Etica - Ethical Bank CSQA – Certification Institution FAIRTRADE Italy – Equosolidarity Standard DIO’ - the most important inspection and certification body in Greece

Some ICEA numbers: 12000 certified operators - 300 inspectors -24 offices in Italy and abroad Non Food Sectors eco textiles (GOTS), corporate social responsibility (social value and SA8000), eco furniture, sustainable tourism, Biowellness, ecological building materials Cosmetics and Detergents (170 Cosmetic Companies with more than 2000 certified products) We certify who works for a better world

CERTIFIED ORGANIC AND NATURAL COSMETICS

CERTIFIED ORGANIC AND NATURAL COSMETICS

Egypt : the land of makeup Man, women and children all were using cosmetics and particularly makeups. Every time an old Egyptian tomb was found and its content revealed to the world, statues appear with fard on their eyes and beautiful makeup color palettes. When those fards were subjected to modern analysis, it was evident that Egyptians were masters in the cosmetic art, that was considered also therapeutic as demonstrated by the many recipees contained in the old papirus documents that were found. For example malachite (copper carbonate) and galena (lead mineral) despite their toxicity were widely used for the eyes and were present in almost all makeups, contributing to protect those delicate organs from the hot and sunny climate. By grinding very accurately those minerals in extremely fine particles and by reacting and mixing them with vegetable derivatives, mainly fats, it could be obtained a product that not only it was not toxic but, on the contrary, possessing a healing power.

Ancient Greece We owe to the old Greek civilization the etymology of the word cosmetics. Some authors refer it to the term “kosmetikos”, meaning a nice combination, and “kosmos” or universe, thus giving to aesthetics and body care a true spiritual meaning. The great doctor Hippocrates, the founder of modern medicine, in his writing about female illnesses was recommending to use rose and lylium oil to diminish wrinkles. The old Greek society considered beauty as an attribute of a well trained healthy and neat body ; hair and teeth and nails were carefully kept clean, and only later on makeups started to appear on their visages due to Egyptian influence.

The Romans A clear skin and strong colors were characteristics of the Roman attitude. Women would use rice starch powder on their skin and carmine on their cheeks; onion and honey were used to make cataplasms for visage care. Grape juice was known to be performant against wrinkles. Hygiene was extremely important at that period; bathing was a matter of cult and tooth pastes based on deer horn or pig nails were known, and vegetable butters used to keep hair dressed. The great poet Ovidius wrote the first known poem concerning cosmetics : “Your lover should never see your makeup bottles on the table : art is worth using to improve your appearance only if it doesn't show up” he was wisely writing 2000 years ago.

COSMOS CERTIFIED ORGANIC AND NATURAL COSMETICS TODAY COSMEBIO France ECOCERT France – BDIH Germany SOIL ASSOCIATION UK - ICEA Italy (BIOFORUM Belgium - ACO-Australia)

The Natural and Organic Cosmetic Standard Setter GERMANY – BDIH The oldest (>60 years), Association of Natural Cosmetic producers, 500 companies are BDIH members (from pharmaceuticals, food supplements, healthcare products and cosmetics), and 180 companies (not only from Germany, but worldwide) have certified more than 7.000 products to BDIH Standard, FRANCE – COSMEBIO The Association of French Organic Cosmetic Producers, it groups more than 400 cosmetic companies that have at least one organic certified product among their cosmetic productions. It developed the first Organic Cosmetic Standard at the end of the nineties

The Standard Setter FRANCE– ECOCERT Greenlife Today the leading world standard for organic cosmetic. Ecocert is an accredited Certification Body with more than 800 licencees (cosmetic producers of ingredients and finished products) and a database of more than 3000 approved cosmetic ingredients ITALY - ICEA Organic and Ethical Certification Body n. 1 in Italy, absolute leader for cosmetics with more than 220 certified companies (producer of finished products, third parties, cosmetic ingredient producers). It has a prominent position in the Mediterranean area and in Russia UK – THE SOIL ASSOCIATION The Soil Association, founded in 1946 by a group of farmers, scientists and nutritionist, is the UK's leading membership charity campaigning for healthy, humane and sustainable food, textiles and cosmetics. It certifies as organic more than 200 companies

The importance of Natural and organic certification Organic standards and certification have grown over the last 40 years, from informal, farmer-owned beginnings to a sophisticated and comprehensive system that is regulated at the international level. Starting with agriculture, then adding food processing, it has now widened to include aquaculture, textiles and cosmetics. Unlike in the field of food there are no laws defining the requirements for the use of the terms „natural“ and/or „organic“ in the advertising of cosmetic products. Therefore there was and there still exists misleading advertising Claims like „natural“, „nature“, „bio“ „green“ are often used for products which contain no or only few natural or organic ingredients Also the use of a green / natural packaging often gives a false impression

Why does the COSMOS Standard fit in? To harmonize existing standards (crucial for producers and for public awareness) To develop a common, internationally recognized Standard for Organic and Natural cosmetics Two Certification levels : Natural and Organic (to recognize the importance for cosmetics to be “natural” if not yet “organic”) Independent ISO 65 accreditation of certification bodies One common signature

Meaning : Principles, Rules and Tools : Green Chemistry No GMO Adoption of Precaution Principle (nanoparticles) Natural and Organic content consistent and reliable way of calculation No petrochemistry Packaging requirements Databases of approved ingredients Inspection and Control : To grant consumers all over the world, when they look for a natural and organic cosmetic product, that all the ingredient sources and the production process are subject to external surveillance, by an ISO 65 Accredited Organic Cosmetic Certification Body ( subject to external surveillance activity by a third accredited party) Market and Objectives : Transparency for consumers, clear labelling, improve the use of organic raw materials, increase public awareness for new production models and new consumption patterns

And for the extensive chemical synthesis which is used to obtain always “new” active cosmetic molecules

Green chemistry at work : 100% cold pressed Organic Pinus Sibirica Oil Pine amidopropylbetaine Pine polyglyceryl Esters

The Cosmos Standard (www.cosmos-standard.org) Representing the great majority of world certified cosmetic companies 5 well-known European organisations BDIH, COSMEBIO, ECOCERT Greenlife, ICEA, SOIL Association more than 1,400 companies more than 24,000 products in more than 40 countries worldwide

COSMOS-standard at a glance Rules Environmentally friendly processes, green chemistry principles, high biodegradability and low aquatic toxicity of synthesized molecules, proper waste management and recycling, packaging materials requirements, information about company policy on energy savings and CO2 footprints Labelling : claims must not be misleading, the use of the term “organic” is strongly regulated, proper use of the logo. Organic transparency : true organic percentage on total weight must be printed on packaging for organic certified products

COSMOS-standard tools Committees Certifiers committee Harmonization of certification procedures, documents etc… All approved certifiers can be involved. Technical committee Recommend appropriate interpretations on technical questions that emerge Identify standards issues that need to be amended due to inconsistencies in the COSMOS-standard or recent developments that suggest a review of the standard

COSMOS-standard objectives Launching a world wide standard

COSMOS-standard objectives Launching a world wide standard

COSMOS-standard tools Databases (organic and non organic approved ingredients) to help formulators

The COSMOS Standard a tool for the future to stimulate and establish a sustainable development, to reconcile economic progress, social responsibility and maintain the natural balance of the planet. The application of those principles in economic activities implies: Changing patterns of production Changing consumption practices

The COSMOS Standard a tool for the future to stimulate and establish a sustainable development, to reconcile economic progress, social responsibility and maintain the natural balance of the planet. The application of those principles in economic activities implies: Changing patterns of production Changing consumption practices

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