20th Century

Key Terms Standardized Sizes- In 1937, the U.S. Department of Agriculture prepared to conduct a study of women's body measurements for the purpose of creating a sizing system which the entire industry could follow. Before, there were no standardized sizes and there were no guidelines for sizing patterns or clothing. In the mid 1940’s companies asked the National Bureau of Standards to do research and provide a reliable industry sizing guide. The resulting commercial standard was distributed by NBS to the industry for comment in 1953, formally accepted by the industry in 1957, and published asCommercial Standard (CS)215-58 in 1958.

World War I (1914-1918)-The wartime economy, the change in population demographics, the expanding domestic economy (with more people working), and the shift to women in the workforce all had a tremendous impact on fashion. Before WWI, France was the main fashion house. People looked to French designers to see what was in style. The most lasting change happened to women's hemlines. Hems which had risen from floor length to ankle length prior to the war, rose to mid calf length by 1916, and have stayed that high, or higher, ever since.

World War II(1939-1945)-The government found it necessary to ration food, gas, and even clothing during that time. Nylon and wool were both needed by the military and Japanese silk was banned in the USA after the attack on Pearl Harbor. New York Emerged as a Fashion Leader. Girdles were out as the rubber was needed for the war effort. Pants became a staple of women who worked in factories and soon gained widespread acceptance for casual wear In February of 1947, Christian Dior introduced his New Look, a style that shocked and outrages some and thrilled others.

Christian Dior- a French fashion designer whom is one of the most important couturiers of the twentieth century. In 1947, he launched his first collection which featured the “New Look” The “New Look” consisted of rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and a very fully skirt. A very feminine look. After years of military and civilian uniforms, restrictions, and shortages, Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook.

Coco Chanel- A famous French Fashion designer. She is the only fashion designer to appear in Time Magazine’s 100 Most Influential People of the 20th Century Chanel was credited with liberating women from the constraints of the "corseted silhouette" and popularizing the acceptance of a sportive, casual chic. Chanel popularized the “little black dress”. Chanel No. 5 is still one of the top grossing perfumes.

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