Change Fashion Workshop Session B: Production/Manufacturing Location: Auditorium Co-Leads: Katarina Rimarcikova, London College of Fashion Scott Echols, ZDHC Foundation Roadmap to Zero Program Laura Hall, Collective Growth Partners

Production/Manufacturing: Definition and Scope Fashion production/manufacturing is a complex global system, employing over 140 million people. Two big issues: Benchmarking for most sustainable/best practices in apparel production Measuring the impact of apparel manufacturing on the environment Scope: In order to better focus on key issues within production, we decided to identify and look at two key apparel items that are the most relatable and most manufactured: T-shirt and Jeans. We want to identify and create a roadmap for the most efficient and sustainable solutions through natural and social science within the manufacturing of these two key items.

Production/Manufacturing: Current State Apparel manufacturing is complex, not fully transparent and rather old fashioned – it is still based on a system that originated in the 'industrial revolution' There has been some innovation - however is not scaled up or scalable Manufacturing is not presenting a business case; the various aspects of production and manufacturing are siloed in most companies Over and under production issues are both affecting the environment

Production/Manufacturing: Ideal State Monitored manufacturing – you are what you monitor and measure Using proven ideas from other industries ( “Toyota way”) New innovative business models based around and starting with production and how to invent a better model New solutions and technologies embedded in fibres and raw materials for more efficient manufacturing Customized technology solutions for various manufacturing processes IOT for manufacturing projections Best practices for chemical use, water use and waste management

Production/Manufacturing: Bridging the Gaps Opportunities/Actions: Understanding and defining the problem clearly – using the same language Simultaneous action – parallel processing Bridging the Execution Gap Social science can be the ‘soft’ science facilitator NYAS incubator for existing innovations to to be identified, nurtured, and implemented Solutions - business friendly and low cost Barriers/Resource Requirements: clear and common language between fashion and science tools for scientific information vertical approach

Production/Manufacturing: Priority Area #1 Description: Deal with the end of use of SPANDEX Key Actions: Test Different approaches (through synthetic biology, material science ) Success Metrics: Eliminating non-degradable fibre and being able to re-use cotton/natural fibers Next Steps: Issue a research brief related to this describing the problem and calling for action- ZDHC has a research brief format we could use as a template. The research brief could be prepared by describing the desired performance features of a material (stretch, biodegradable, etc.) needed. Another request would be for a biodegradable non-isocyanate based PU. There is much research in this area, these have much less toxicity and you would then be addressing front end toxicity to workers and back end degradation. *There are a number of reports of microbial degradation of polyurethanes going back 20 years, certainly the ability to modify bacteria has changed in interim so what is possible now.

Production/Manufacturing: Priority Area #2 Description: Flame retardant and waterproof treatments for natural fibers - Finding alternatives for chemicals for existing finishing processes Key Actions: The Outdoor Industry Association (OIA) Sustainability Working Group has projects in both these areas – link to or join their work to avoid duplication. The ZDHC is developing a chemical innovation platform database to promote better chemistries. NYAS could link and help shape this project. Success Metrics: replacing harming chemicals that might be banned in next few years Next Steps: NYAS could co-sponsor a meeting session at the Winter Outdoor retailer show with OIA in November to further explore working together.

Production/Manufacturing: Priority Area #3 Implement “White list” science principles AND Science based target setting Key Actions: Provide raw material components and processes that are not harmful or toxic. Provide clear dashboard for all fashion companies and manufacturing - you are what you measure Success Metrics: measuring impact of making changes in chemistry is difficult and would be a good thing to working on measuring. ZDHC and AFIRM have lists of banned chemicals. Next Steps: a science based criteria for setting limits would be useful as for the most part the limits in product or chemical formulations are based on what is detectable or an arbitrary 100 or 1000-ppm

Production/Manufacturing: Questions Definition and Scope: How should we define production/manufacturing for the purposes of the Change Fashion Challenge? What is the scope of this working group? What processes, products, areas, etc. will we focus on? Current State: What is the current state of sustainable production for fashion? What are the “hot spots”? Ideal State: What are the main needs and expectations from business and industry? What would the ideal state for sustainable production in fashion look like, assuming required solutions could be developed? Bridging the Gaps: Opportunities/Actions What are the opportunities for science and technology to improve sustainable production for fashion? Of these, what are the top 2-3 priority areas? Barriers/Requirements What are the barriers to enabling science and technology to improve sustainable production for fashion? Priority Areas (up to 3): For each area: What are the key scientific issues? What are the key research questions that need to be answered? What are the critical areas for innovation? What data is needed and what are the gaps in data currently (reliability, integration, frequency)? What would a research roadmap look like (key actions)? What would success look like? What are the next steps?