Backup Slides – Mild Surfactants Surfactant Chemistry Overview Modified Silicone Surfactants PEL-SIL Q-80/Q-80S These slides can be added to the presentation as you see fit. If your customer’s would benefit from a review of surfactant chemistry and how they work – move the 7 surfactant slides to the beginning of the slide deck after the Elé introduction slide. If your customer would like a better understanding of the modified silicone surfactants (PEG-Dimethicones) – insert the “Modified Silicone Surfactant” slides at the end of the anionic section. If your customer is interested in a strong conditioning silicone that is widely used in ethnic hair care and hair color conditioners – move the PEL-SIL Q80/Q-80S slides forward. Would fit well after the summary slide of cationic surfactants.

What is a Surfactant? The term surfactant is a portmanteau for surface active agent. Surfactants contain a hydrophilic (water-loving) head group and a hydrophobic tail group. Surfactants are substances that are attracted to surfaces (interfaces) and lower the interfacial tension between the phases. Portmanteau (pôrtˈmantō) – like brunch (breakfast & lunch) or podcast (ipod and broadcast)

What do surfactants do? Emulsifying Dispersing / Solubilizing Foaming Detergency/Cleaning Conditioning Wetting Thickening

Surfactants in solution Individual molecules are in the bulk solution and on the surfaces CMC => concentration above which micelles form Micelles act as a reservoir of surfactant molecules The hydrophobic tails of the surfactant molecules want out of the water so migrate to any surface – whether air/water, water/solid, or water/oil. After the surfaces are ‘covered’ so to speak with surfactant, if the concentration is high enough, the surfactant forms spherical groups called micelles, with the surfactant tails in the center of the spheres. This is the CMC – Critical Micelle Concentration. The individual surfactant molecules in the bulk solution can switch places with the surfactant on the surfaces or in the micelles and form an equilibrium with them. Micelles can act as a reservoir of surfactant molecules – if the concentration of surfactant swimming around as individual molecules begins to drop, they are replaced by molecules from the micelles.

How surfactants clean Insoluble oils and are attached to solid surfaces and don’t dissolve in water due to their hydrophobicity An insoluble grease or oil, like the surfactant tails, does not want to be in the water

How surfactants clean Hydrophobic surfactant tails are attracted to oil/water interface

How surfactants clean Oil is solubilized and displaced from surfaces Surfactants keep oil dispersed in solution

Surfactant Irritation Surfactants can also solubilize natural skin lipids Denature skin proteins Result is irritation and inflammation Sometime surfactants can work too well Thus the need for mild surfactants in personal care products

Modified Silicone Surfactants

Modified Silicone Surfactants Before moving on to the other surfactant types I want to mention silicone surfactants. These are surfactants where the fatty tails have been replaced by dimethicone. Dimethicone is combination of “dimethyl” & “silicone” Silicone surfactants can be nonionic, anionic, cationic, etc. Elé makes primarily nonionic silicone surfactants. Octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane (D4)- The D in the D4 siloxane molecule stands for dimethyl or di-substituted silicone. The 4, means 4 ‘D’ units. Reactants equilibrate to form a linear polymer Molecular weight is determined by the amount of end blocker (HMDS, hexamethyldisiloxane) Without MHF (methyl hydrogen fluid) ,would be straight dimethicone fluid. ’The Si-H (silicone-hydrogen) gives us a reactive site to further functionalize the molecule.

Modified Silicones PEG allyl ether Si-H reacts with terminal alkene, in this case PEG allyl ether in the presence of platinum catalyst in a hydrosilation rxn. The glycol side chains can be further derivatized just like other alkoylates, to esters, sulfosuccinates, etc.

Modified Silicones Siloxane Polyethers = Siloxane = Polyether This is an easier way to visualize the molecule. The comb structure is typical. If we picture each blue dot as a D unit, and each green dot as an EO unit, then this structure would represent PEG-8 Dimethicone

Modified Silicones PEG-8 Dimethicone However, the INCI name doesn’t specify either the length of the siloxane chain or the ratio of glycol to silicone, so all these structures (and others) are also PEG-8 Dimethicone. So if you need a silicone product duplicated, we would usually need a sample of the product to be matched, or detailed specifications.

Modified Silicones Increased PEG content increases water solubility Increased PPG content increases compatibility with non-polar organic ingredients Cationic functionality increases substantivity to skin and hair Anionic functionality increases water solubility & foaming Things to keep in mind about modified silicones.

PEL-SIL Q-80 / PEL-SIL Q-80S

PEL-SIL Q-80-S PEL-SIL Q-80-S INCI: Quaternium-80 (and) Propanediol PEL-SIL Q-80-S, combines the superior conditioning agent, Quaternium-80, with an environmentally friendly, plant-derived solvent, Propanediol. It is recommended for both hair and skin care products. In hair conditioners it provides improved combability, gloss, softness, and antistatic effect. In skin lotions, it improves moisturization and imparts a smooth supple feel.

Quaternium-80 PEL-SIL Q-80-S Quaternium-80 has a linear dimethicone core, capped with quaternary nitrogen groups which each carry permanent positive charge, and fatty groups derived from coconut oil.

PEL-SIL Q-80-S - - - - - - - - Q+ Q+ Q+ Q+ Q+ Q+ Q+ The surface of hair and skin has negative charges. Because oppositely charge substances are attracted to each other, cationic Quaternium-80 is electrostatically drawn to hair and skin. Damaged areas of hair tend to have the highest concentration of negative charges, so Quaternium-80 is deposited in the areas where it is most needed. Once the surface charges have been neutralized, additional Quaternium-80 is no longer electrostatically attracted, so build-up does not become a problem.

PEL-SIL Q-80/Q-80S (Quaternium-80 (and) Propolyene Glycol/Propanediol) Features/Benefits Cationic Superior conditioning Humectancy Emolliency Anti-static Provides gloss 70% renewable carbon content Applications Conditioners Shampoos Styling products Ethnic Hair Care PEL-SIL Q-80 is a quaternary organosilicone that is substantive to hair and skin. In hair care formulations, it acts as a conditioning and anti-static agent, improving the combability, gloss, and manageability of hair. In skin care products, PEL-SIL Q-80 performs as an emollient, a slip aid, and imparts a smooth feel. It is recommended for evaluation in shampoos, conditioners, lotions, and liquid soaps. Non-greasy Does not cause ‘build-up’

Thank you!