Draping, Shampooing, and Scalp Massage Copyright 2013 © SAP

UNDERSTANDING SHAMPOOING Purpose To cleanse the hair and scalp Definition To subject the hair and scalp to cleaning and massaging with a cleansing agent

SHAMPOO SELECTION Hair Type Dry, oily, normal Hair Condition Overprocessed; chemically treated; damaged Home Maintenance Inappropriate products used at home can diminish the quality of the salon service

THE pH SCALE Potential hydrogen in a solution pH levels Acid—0 to 6.9 Alkaline—7.1 to 14 The higher the pH rating, the harsher the shampoo

CHEMISTRY OF WATER Purification—fresh water from lakes and streams must be purified for domestic use. Soft water—rain water or chemically softened water. It contains small amounts of minerals and will produce lots of lather. Hard water—contains minerals that lessen the ability of shampoo to lather.

CHEMISTRY OF SHAMPOOS Water—the main ingredient in all shampoos Surfactant Molecule Hydrophilic end Lipophilic end

Hydrophilic Is the “head” of the shampoo molecule Attaches to water molecules Causes debris to roll off

Lipophilic Is the “tail” of the shampoo molecule Is attracted to oil and dirt Causes oil and dirt to roll up into little balls that can be lifted off by a water rinse

TYPES OF SHAMPOO Acid-balanced shampoo (4.5 to 5.5) Conditioning or moisturizing shampoo Medicated shampoo Clarifying shampoo Balancing shampoo Dry or powder shampoo Color-enhancing shampoo Shampoo for wigs and hairpieces

CONDITIONERS Chemical agents that are applied to the hair to deposit protein and moisture Reconstructor Types Rinse-through Treatment or repair Leave-in Formulation Silicone and moisture- binding humectants Emollients Synthetic polymers Proteins

HUMECTANTS Are contained in conditioners Are substances that absorb moisture Help to retain moisture Penetrate the cortical layer of the hair shaft

CONDITIONERS Buildup not good Conditioning effects Product Types Smooth the cuticle Penetrate the cortex Product Types Instant conditioners Moisturizers Protein conditioners Deep conditioning treatments Other conditioning agents Spray-on thermal protectors Scalp conditioners

BRUSHING THE HAIR General Rules Benefits Brush as part of every shampoo. Do not brush before chemical service. Do not brush if scalp is irritated. Do not brush the scalp. Never use comb to loosen scales from the scalp. Benefits Stimulates blood circulation Removes dust, dirt, and product buildup from the hair Adds shine

BRUSHING THE HAIR Make center part from front to nape. Section half an inch off center to the crown of head. Hold strand of hair in nondominant hand between thumb and fingers. With dominant hand, lay brush with bristles close to scalp. Rotate brush from scalp to ends; repeat 3 times. Part hair half an inch from first parting; continue brushing until entire head has been brushed.

SCALP MASSAGE Two basic requisites for a healthy scalp are cleanliness and stimulation. Give massage to stimulate the scalp. Give massage with all scalp treatments. Give massage with continuous, even motion. Massage is most effective in a series of treatments. Thorough knowledge of the muscles and nerve points of the scalp and neck is necessary for the stylist.

SCALP MANIPULATION Relaxing movement Sliding movement Sliding and rotating movement Forehead movement Scalp movement Hairline movement Front scalp movement Back scalp movement Ear-to-ear movement Back movement Shoulder movement Spine movement

SHAMPOOING Implements Needed Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair Towels Shampoo cape Shampoo Conditioner Comb and hairbrush Shampooing Chemically Treated Hair Use mild shampoo Use conditioner

APPLYING DRY SHAMPOOS Seat client comfortably at station. Drape for chemical service. Follow product directions. Apply powder directly onto hair from scalp to ends and brush through.

SHAMPOOING CLIENTS WITH SPECIAL NEEDS Clients with disabilities or who are wheelchair-bound will usually tell you how they prefer to be shampooed. Some clients in wheelchairs will allow you to shampoo their hair while they remain seated in their wheelchairs, facing the shampoo bowl and bending forward. Always ask the clients their preferences and keep their comfort and safety a priority.

SCALP TREATMENTS Keep scalp and hair in a clean and healthy condition Should recommend only after a hair and scalp examination or analysis Can be given before or after the shampoo, depending on which treatment is given

GENERAL HAIR AND SCALP TREATMENTS Normal hair Dry hair Oily hair Dandruff treatment

SUMMARY Cleanliness is the key to attractive hair. Proper analysis of hair and scalp is essential. Product knowledge is important. Shampooing is the stylist’s opportunity to put the client at ease and prepare her for the service she is about to receive. Scalp treatments are useful in keeping the hair and scalp healthy.