This presentation represents a Partnership between Grays Harbor College and the Washington State University Master Gardeners of Grays Harbor and Pacific Counties

WSU MASTER GARDENERS PROGRAM PRESENTS

BACKYARD COMPOSTING

TOPICS THE SCIENCE OF COMPOSTING MANAGING THE DECAY PROCESS HOW TO MAKE COMPOST USING COMPOST COMPOSTING FOOD WASTES HEALTH AND SAFETY QUESTIONS COMPOSTING AND THE ENVIRONMENT

WHY COMPOST Gardeners have long made and used compost because of the way it improves garden soil . Today, we also compost plant and vegetable matter as it is a significant way to reduce the amount of waste that is burned or dumped in landfills. FACT: Yard wastes and vegetable scraps can make up as much as 20% of our household garbage. Composting effectively reduces that waste

THE SCIENCE OF COMPOSTING Composting carries out the earth’s cycle of growth and decay. GROWTH : Plants grow by capturing the sun’s energy along with carbon dioxide from the air and nutrients and water from the soil.

DECAY: When plants ( and the animals that eat them) die, they become raw materials for the composting or decay process. By consuming the decaying plant and vegetable matter, microorganisms, fungi, insects, worms, mites, and other creatures convert the carbon from dead plants into energy for their own growth and release carbon dioxide into the air.

RENEWAL: The aforementioned organisms recycle the nutrients from the decaying plants into their own bodies and eventually back into the soil. Other plants and microorganisms use the carbon and nutrients released by the composting process, and the cycle begins again.

The material that remains from the decay process is similar to organic matter. It holds water and nutrients in the soil and makes the soil more porous and easier to dig.

Fast or Hot Composting Manipulating the decay process to make it proceed quickly by balancing food, water and air inthe compost pile will favor the growth of thermophilic (high-temperature) micro organisms. One b-product of microbial activity is heat, up to 120 to 150 degrees F. Manipulating the decay process to make it proceed quickly by balancing food, water and air inthe compost pile will favor the growth of thermophilic (high-temperature) micro organisms. One by-product of microbial activity is heat, up to 120 to 150 degrees F.

BUILDING THE PILE MAKING HOT COMPOST TAKES EXTRA EF-FORT, BUT IT PRODUCES A HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCT QUICKLY. 1. COLLECT ENOUGH MATERIAL TO MAKE A PILE AT LEAST 1 CUBIC YARD IN VOLUME. (AN OPEN PILE 5 FT WIDE AT THE BASE BY 3 FT HIGH HOLDS ABOUT A CUBIC YARD.) USE ROUGHLY TWO PARTS BULKING AGENT TO ONE PART ENERGY MATERIAL. CHOP, SHRED, MOW, OR SMASH COARSE MATERIALS SO THEY WILL BREAK DOWN FASTER.

2. START THE PILE BY ADDING ENERGY MATERIAL AND BULKING AGENT 2. START THE PILE BY ADDING ENERGY MATERIAL AND BULKING AGENT. THEN MIX WITH A PITCHFORK. 3. SQUEEZE A HANDFUL OF THE MIXED MATERIAL TO CHECK ITS MOISTURE LEVEL. IF YOU CAN BARELY SQUEEZE OUT A DROP OF WATER, THE MOISTURE LEVEL IS IDEAL. IF THE PILE IS TOO DRY, ADD WATER AND CHECK THE MOISTURE AGAIN. IF IT IS TOO WET, MIX IN SOME DRIER MATERIAL.

4. CONTINUE ADDING ENERGY MATERIAL AND BULKING AGENT, MIXING, AND CHECKING MOISTURE UNTIL THE PILE IS BUILT.

TURNING THE PILE Use a pitchfork to turn the pile weekly, and add water when needed. Turning improves the porosity of the pile and speeds decay. It also mixes material from the outside of the pile into the hot center. Cover the pile during rainy periods so it will not get too wet.

CURING After initial mixing, a regularly turned pile usually stays hot for several weeks to a month. It will shrink to about half its original volume by the end of this time. The pile then needs to sit another 4 to 8 weeks to cure. Curing affects the availability of nitrogen and microbial activity of the compost. Uncured compost may harm some plants, especially when used in potting soil or to start seeds.

When conditions are favorable for high temperature microorganisms, compost piles heat rapidly to a temperature range of 120 to 150 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature range kills most weed seeds and pathogens (disease organisms), but does not kill the mycocorrizae (beneficial fungi that help plant roots absorb nutrients). Once the hot phase is complete, lower-temperature microorganisms, worms, insects, and other invertebrates complete the decay process.

Slow Composting If we do not maintain ideal conditions for hot composting, microorganisms will still break down the wastes. Decay will be slower, cooler, and less effective at killing weed seeds and pathogens.

SLOW (COLD) COMPOSTING Employing slow composting is an easy and convenient way to turn yard wastes into a useful soil amendment. It often is the best method for people who do not have the time to tend a hot compost pile. Simply mix non-woody yard wastes into a pile and let them sit for a year or so. Microorganisms, insects, earthworms, and other decomposers will slowly break down the wastes.

SLOW (COLD) COMPOSTING A MIXTURE OF ENERGY MATERIALS AND BULKING AGENTS PROVIDESTHE BEST FOOD SOURCE AND ENVIRONMENT FOR DECOMPOSITION.

SLOW (COLD) COMPOSTING ADD FRESH WASTES BY OPENING THE PILE , PLACING THE WASTES IN THE CENTER, AND COVERING THEM. THIS HELPS AERATE THE PILE AND ALSO BURIES THE FRESH WASTES SO THEY DON’T ATTRACT PESTS SUCH AS FLIES, RATS, OR RACCOONS.

Slow composting does not produce the heat needed to kill many weed seeds. It is best to pull and compost weeds before they go to seed. If you put seeds in the compost pile, be prepared for more weeding.

EXAMPLES OF COMPOSTERS GARBAGE CAN COMPOSTER USE FOR SMALLER YARD USES KITCHEN SCRAPS AND SMALL YARD WASTE NEEDS GARBAGE CAN WITH A COVER. EASILY ASSEMBLED. HOT OR COLD COMPOSTER

WOOD AND WIRE BIN WOOD & WIRE BIN BETTER FOR LARGE YARD FOR YARD WASTE AND KITCHEN SCRAPS, IF YOU BURY THEM IN A PILE NEEDS TO BE ASSEMBLED HOT OR COLD COMPOSTER

WIRE MESH CIRCLE WIRE MESH CIRCLE COMPOSTER FOR USE IN A SMALL SPACE, OR YOU CAN PLACE IT CLOSE TO WHERE YOU WILL USE THE COMPOST. CAN BE USED AS A HOLDING BIN FOR GREEN OR BROWN MATERIALS OR THEY CAN BE USED AS A COMPOSTING BIN INEXPENSIVE AND EASILY MADE. HOT OR COLD COMPOSTER

BIOSTACK COMPOSTER BIOSTACK COMPOSTER FOR YARD WASTE AND KITCHEN SCRAPS. FOR USE IN SMALLER YARDS. EASY TO ASSEMBLE AND TO USE . YOU NEED AN EMPTY SPACE AT LEAST TWICE THE SIZE OF THE BIOSTACK TO HAVE ROOM TO TURN THE COMPOST. HOT OR COLD COMPOSTER

CINDER BLOCK MULTI BIN CINDER BLOCK MULTI BIN USE IN A LARGE YARD. YOU MAY WANT TO PUT IT BEHIND SOMETHING TO DISGUISE IT USE FOR YARD WASTE EASY TO ASSEMBLE. MADE FROM 98 CINDER BLOCKS. HOT OR COLD COMPOSTER

EARTH MACHINE COMPOSTER USE IN A SMALL YARD. FOR KITCHEN SCRAPS AND SMALL YARD WASTE. HOT OR COLD COMPOST.

GREEN CONE COMPOSTER GREEN CONE COMPOSTER GOOD FOR SMALL YARDS. THREE PARTS, AN IN-GROUND BASKET, OPAGUE BLACK CONE AND GREEN OUTER CONE WITH LID. REQUIRES LITTLE MAINTENANCE. USE MAINLY FOOD SCRAPS. RODENT PROOF. COLD COMPOSTER

USING COMPOST The best part about compost is the benefit it provides your garden. Mix compost with soil to add organic matter or use it as mulch. Mix 1 to 2 inches of compost into your soil before you plant a vegetable garden, lawn, flower bed, or cover crop Composts applied to the soil surface help control weeds, conserve water and protect soil from erosion

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