Chapter 7 - FASHION Designing Fashion The Design Process Making Fashion

Chapter Objectives Describe the three divisions of apparel manufacturers Explain the roles and types of fashion designers. Identify the elements and principles of design used to create fashion. Identify the steps in the garment production process. Compare haute-couture production and prêt-à-porter production. Explain how women’s and men’s apparel are sized.

Apparel Company Divisions The three divisions of apparel manufacturers are: Design Division: Buy Fabrics/ Design a line Production Division: Produce the garments Sales Division: Sell completed apparel to stores All divisions work together to make it happen! Section 7.1

The Role of the Fashion Designer Designers must anticipate what their target market will buy Select the appropriate fabrics that will sell. Produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay. Create original designs and choose appropriate fabrics Supervise assistants who carry out their ideas. May also spend time on administrative tasks. Section 7.1

The Role of the Fashion Designer Types of Designers Self-Employed Designers Design-House Designers Designers for Manufacturers Section 7.1 5

Elements of Design The elements of design are: Color Silhouette Line Fabric Texture The elements must be chosen according to principles. The elements must be combined effectively to achieve harmony. Section 7.1

Elements of Design Research has shown that customers respond to color before any other design element. Texture is determined by fibers, yarns, and the method of construction. color a visual characteristic, representing hue and tone, that is one of the most important elements of fashion design texture a characteristic of the surface of a material in terms of how it feels and looks Section 7.1

Elements of Design The next considerations are the silhouette and line. silhouette the overall form, or outline of a garment line a distinct elongated mark that directs the eye movement when viewing the garment Section 7.1

Principles of Design Besides using the basic elements of design, a skilled designer also applies the principles of design. principles of design the standards for creating good design that include proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony Section 7.1

Principles of Design Proportion Balance Rhythm Emphasis Harmony The relationship of all the spaces of the garment. Balance The relationship (either symmetrical or asymmetrical) of one side of the garment to the other. Rhythm A sense of movement through the repetition of lines, shapes, and colors. Emphasis The center of interest, or the focal point, of the garment. Harmony Harmony is achieved when the designer has applied all of the principles of design to a fashion design. Section 7.1 10

Steps of the Design Process Design Process and Schedules: Marketing period is 6 months before customers will purchase… Designers have it ready 2-3 months before that! Steps of the Design Process Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Basic Decisions Design Concept and Samples Sales Research Analysis Step 4 Step 5 Step 6 Design Presentation Purchase Orders Production Section 7.1 11

Design Process and Schedules Designers use computer-aided design (CAD) systems as a tool, like a paintbrush, to produce creations. computer-aided design (CAD) computer programs that perform many design functions to create design CAD allows for quick production through technology and machines. Section 7.1

The Garment Production Process The fashion industry uses computer-aided design (CAD) systems to complete patternmaking. patternmaking the process of transforming the design into the appropriate pieces needed to produce an apparel item Computer systems also facilitate grading. grading the technical process of increasing or decreasing the sizes of a pattern to correspond to a garment size Section 7.2

The Garment Production Process Costing is the process of calculating the production costs of a garment in order to set a wholesale price. wholesale the price that retail buyers pay for goods they purchase from manufacturers The wholesale price includes: Cost of labor Materials Markup Section 7.2

The Garment Production Process Garments are mass-produced and cut and sewn in an assembly-line manner. computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) a system that automatically moves the garment parts through each phase of the cutting-and-sewing process Many manufacturers use computer-aided manufacturing (CAM). Section 7.2

The Garment Production Process After a garment is constructed: An inspector checks it for flaws. Hangtags attached to garments provide information such as fabric content and care instructions. Labels attached to garments identify the name of the manufacturer or the line of clothing. Section 7.2

The Garment Production Process Haute couture is the French term for high-fashion custom made designer clothing. prêt-á-porter French term for designer ready-to-wear clothing Prêt-á porter is less expensive than haute couture, but it generates more income for couture fashion houses. Section 7.2

Size Classifications The different groupings of a sizing system in retail stores are known as size classifications. sizing system a set of sizes based on common assumptions and methods of development Vanity sizing gives the customer the illusion of being able to fit into a smaller size. Standard measurements vary from one manufacturer to another… Section 7.2

Women’s Size System- based on shape of figure Misses Women’s/ Large Juniors Petites Styling Conservative adaptation of previous season’s styles Same as misses with some junior styles Young, trendy, figure-conscious styles Same as misses’ styles Age 25 and up 18 and up 15 to 25 Size Range Even sizes 0-20 Even sizes 16-26W, 16-26WP or higher Odd sizes 3-15 Petite 0-14 Figure Fully developed; over 5’4” Larger proportioned Not fully developed Fully developed; under 5’4” Section 7.2 19

Size Classifications- Men’s sizing More standard than women’s sizing. Men’s slacks, dress shirts, and tailored apparel are sized with a dual-sizing system, or a combination of two measurements. Example: pants – 30/32 (waist/length) dress shirts – 16, 34/35 (neck/sleeve length) Most men’s sports shirts and sweaters are offered in small, medium, large, and extra large. Section 7.2

What are some roles of the fashion designer? 7.1 What are some roles of the fashion designer? Anticipate what target market will buy, produce finished products at prices customers will pay, create original designs, select appropriate fabrics, supervise What are the five basic principles of design? Proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis and harmony What are the three divisions of apparel manufacturing and what do they accomplish? Design Division: Buy fabrics, design a line Production Division: Produce the garments Sales Division: Sell completed apparel to stores 1. 2. 3. Quick Check Answers Fashion designers anticipate what the target market will buy, and they produce finished garments or accessories at prices that customers will pay. They create original designs and select the appropriate fabrics. proportion, balance, rhythm, emphasis, and harmony Section 7.1

7.2 What are the six key steps in the apparel production process? Basic decisions -> Design concepts and samples -> Sales research analysis -> Design presentation -> Purchase orders -> Production What are the production differences between haute couture and prêt-á-porter? Haute-couture garments are more precise, custom-made by hand (hand sewn) to fit the customer. Pret-a-Porter garments require very little hand sewing and are mass produced in ready-to-wear styles and sizes (not custom) What is the difference between women’s and men’s sizing? Women’s clothing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more standard and uses a dual sizing system based on measurement numbers. 4. 5. Quick Check Answers (1) patternmaking, (2) making samples, (3) establishing costs, (4) order taking, (5) garment cutting and sewing, and (6) inspection and labeling Haute-couture garments are custom-made by hand to fit the customer. Construction is more complex and precise. Prêt-á-porter garments require very little hand sewing. Women’s sizing is based on shape of the figure and includes numbered sizes. Men’s sizing is more uniform and uses a dual system based on measurement numbers. 6. Section 7.2