WAVES . . . The motion of the ocean . . ..

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Presentation transcript:

WAVES . . . The motion of the ocean . . .

Basic Wave Structure: Wavelength Crest Trough Height Water Depth Still Water Line Trough Water Depth Height Ocean Bottom

Deep Water Wave: Water depth is greater than ½ the wavelength Particle motion in orbital pattern

Shallow Water Wave: Wavelength greater than water depth Particle motion in flat elliptical pattern

Transitional Wave: Wavelength greater than 2X but less than 20X the water depth Particle motion in flat elliptical pattern

Water Particle Motion Wavelength decreases as depth decreases Deep Water Wave Shallow Water Wave Wavelength decreases as depth decreases

Progressive Waves: Appear to be moving in a definite direction Wind generated, Catastrophic, Internal (example: rock dropped into pond)

Standing Waves: Appear as vertical undulation of sea, does not propagate (move) (example: sailboat in harbor moving up and down but no apparent waves “passing by”)

Wave Interference: Constructive Destructive Mixed

Constructive Interference: Two waves meet crest to crest and trough to trough Resulting new wave has same original wavelength and height is the total sum of two original waves

Destructive Interference: Two waves meet crest to trough and trough to crest Resulting new wave is canceled out leaving calm surface

Mixed Interference: Two waves of different heights and lengths meet Resulting new wave has irregular wave pattern created, sequence of high waves followed by sequence of low waves

Fetch – the distance over which the wind blows in one direction Wave Action: Refraction Reflection Diffraction Fetch – the distance over which the wind blows in one direction

Refraction: Process by which the part of wave in shallow water is slowed down to cause wave to bend and tend to align itself with underwater contours

Reflection: Process by which a wave has part of its energy returned seaward by a reflecting surface (shoreline)

Diffraction: Any bending of a wave around an obstacle that can not be interpreted as refraction or reflection

Wave Breaking: Ideally, when water depth is 1.3 times breaker height, the crest will topple Spilling breaker Plunging breakers Surging breakers Deep water waves hit bottom in shallow water (reef, etc), look like walls of white water (tsunami)

Erosion . . . Effects of waves . . . Summer – low energy waves cause beaches to build out Winter – high energy waves cause the sand to be removed

Erosion . . . Steep, narrow, rocky headlands or coast caused by HIGH ENERGY waves Broad gentle slopes with sandy beaches, calm coast or bay caused by LOW ENERGY waves

Erosion

Wave Effect: Headlands vs Bays Energy is spread out = smaller waves Bay Shore Headland Shore Energy is concentrated = large waves

Bay & Headland

Protection Against Erosion: Natural protection (dunes, plants) Man made objects - built to protect the shore and may work for a limited area, but often increases erosion to adjacent land (sea wall, breakwater, jetty/groin)

Area of increased erosion Sea Wall (revetment). . . Area of increased erosion

Sea Wall (Revetment)

Area of increased erosion Breakwater Wall . . . Area of increased erosion Longshore current Calm area (sand deposited)

Breakwater Wall Harbour

Rock Groin (short) or Jetties (long) . . . erosion erosion deposition deposition Longshore current Longshore current

Jetty/Groin

Natural - Vegetation

Natural - Dune