Facial Makeup Chapter 24 – 16’

Main Objective Emphasize most attractive features/accents Minimize less attractive features/flaws For most people makeup should be subtle Application will vary from person to person Structure of the face Color of eyes, skin and hair How the client wants to look Results that can be achieved realistically

Why Study Facial Makeup? Clients rely on your advice Provide finishing touches to any hair service Understanding makeup formulation assists you to know “when” and “whom” they should be used Face shape altering techniques

Describe Facial Makeup and Their Uses Foundation Base makeup Evens out skin tone Minimize minor imperfections Hyperpigmentation Acne birthmarks

Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris Oil based - normal to dry skin types Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers Water based – oily skin types Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder – matte finish

Color primer – applied before foundation to cancel out & disguise skin discoloration Green – redness Lavender – sallow or yellowish Orange-to-peach – dark blue spots and under eye discoloration

Foundation Chemistry Liquid – Oily to normal skin Sheer to medium coverage Matte finish Water-based Oil-free (marketed as) Noncomedogenic

Cream – Dry to normal skin, more mature Medium to full coverage (heavier) Oil-based

All types of foundation have sun-blocking agents Powder – Oily skin Dry to powdery finish Mineral Makeup Highly pigmented Applied large fluffy brush - Kabuki All types of foundation have sun-blocking agents

Using Foundation Success of the entire makeup application depends on the correct color selection and application of the foundation Skin tone determines foundation color Test at jawline Too light – dull chalky Too dark – muddy or splotchy Line of demarcation – obvious line where foundation starts or stops

Classified as warm, cool, neutral Warm Cool Neutral Yellow, orange, red-orange Cool Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink), Neutral Equal amounts of warm and cool tones

Foundation should always match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone Apply at jawline to get the best match possible Color should “disappear” Remove from container with a sanitized spatula Applied to the face with a sponge

Concealers Used to cover blemishes and discolorations, dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be applied before or after foundation Contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks

Silicone-based for self-setting light coverage Oil-based for greater coverage Wide range of colors Contain Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness, anti-aging and moisturizing benefits

Pots are the heaviest and provide most coverage Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and may contain some moisture Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid consistency Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be used as a foundation Did you Know – PP 831

Concealer Chemistry and Use Chemical composition is similar to cream foundation Removed from container with a spatula and applied with a sponge or brush Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with sponge It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as close as possible! If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw attention to problems

Face Powders Create a matte or non-shiny finish Mixture of pigments and talc Loose Set the foundation Pressed Final layer Perfect for touch-ups Reapplied often

Absorb excess oil Minimizes shine of oily skin Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discolorations and toning down excessive color and shine Translucent – very little pigment Colored should match natural skin tone

Face Powder Chemistry Loose and pressed Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of bacteria and preserve the product (powder)

Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added Translucent – do not contain much color

Using face Powder Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin types Heavier weight – normal to oily Powder should match well with the natural skin tone and work well with the foundation Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess with brush Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick touch-ups Loose is best for use at home

Eye Shadow Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or contour Variety of colors Used wet or dry Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy

Eye Shadow Chemistry Stick and cream - water based with oil Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral spirits) Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so as not to fall apart

Using Eye Shadow Makes eye appear brighter and more expressive Matching shadow color and eye color creates a flat field of color and should be avoided Use colors other than eye color - contrasting or complimentary Light and dark colors can bring attention to the eyes

Darker shades make iris appear lighter Lighter shades make iris appear deeper Makeup selection should enhance client’s eyes Color choices should be subtle for daytime Colors may match and coordinate with client’s clothing Referred to as highlight, base, and contour colors

Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have any finish Lighter color will appear larger Base color is generally a medium tone close to skin tone Used to even skin tone Applied all over the lid and brow bone, from lash to brow Other colors applied after, providing a smooth blending Matte finish is usually preferred

Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and darker than skin tone Applied to minimize a specific area To create contour in a crease Define the eyelash line Remove with spatula and apply with fresh applicator or clean brush Remove and apply with unused disposable brush

Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly upward and outward Blend

Eyeliners Used to outline and emphasize the eyes Lash line appear fuller Variety of colors Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen Create a line close to lashes to make eyes appear larger and lashes fuller

Eyeliner Chemistry Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) Soft and hard form Used on both upper and lower lids Liquid and cake (softened and hard) Caution Box PP 815

Using Eyeliner Most prefer color same color as lashes or mascara for a more natural look More dramatic colors may be chosen depending on trends and own style Apply with extreme caution Have a steady hand and make sure the client remains still Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue before and after each use

Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure, close to the lash line Powder application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look

Eyebrow Color Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows Darken the eyebrows Correct their shape Fill in sparse areas

Eyebrow Color Chemistry Similar to eyeliner pencil Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye shadow

Using Eyebrow Color Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Powder shadow application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color

Cheek Color Blush, blusher, rouge Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek bone (zygomatic) Bronzer - Gives natural glow to the face and helps to create more attractive facial contours

Cheek Color Chemistry Oil based formulas – combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-resistant product Cream – contain water, thickeners and surfactants that enable particles to penetrate hair follicles and cracks

Using Cheek Color Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied with facial sponge Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied with facial sponge Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely used – applied with a cotton puff or brush Loose powder - variety of shades – applied with brush or cotton puff

General Rules for Application Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear (remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book pp. 833) Do not extend color above the outer corner of eye Do not apply in bright round circle – blend color so it softly fades into foundation

Lip Color Lipstick or lip gloss Enhance or correct the shape of the lips Cosmetic paste usually in a tube Variety of colors Color the lips Some contain sunscreen Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming dry and cracked

Lip Color Chemistry Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes Castor oil is the primary ingredient Color agents Waxes

Using Lip Color Compliment Client’s hair & eye color, fashion trends Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to select appropriate colors Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shade Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT BELONGS TO THE CLIENT! Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush

Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and work towards the middle – repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes following natural lip line Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in and connecting in the middle Aim for symmetry and balance

Lip Liner Colored pencil used to outline lips Helps to keep lip color from feathering or bleeding Usually applied before lip color to ensure proper shape and definition of the lips Chose color on fashion trends or one that compliments and coordinates with lip color

Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener after each use Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and work toward the middle Repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks with rounded strokes, following the natural lip line Outline the lower lip from the corners in Apply liner to lips for color staying power

Mascara Used to darken, define and thicken the eyelashes Liquid, cake, and cream form Variety of shades and tints Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight with fine or thick bristles Enhances natural lashes, making them appear longer and fuller Lashes should be darker than eyebrows

Mascara Chemistry Polymer products Pigments – must inert Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives Pigments Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair fibers Pigments – must inert Unable to combine with other elements Focus on – PP 815 Caution Box – PP 816

Using Mascara Curl lashes before applying mascara Used on both upper and lower lashes Apply from inner to outer corners Dispose of wand NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!! Apply carefully Most common in jury is poking the eye with the applicator

Other Cosmetics Eye makeup removers – used to remove makeup Oil based - Generally mineral oil with fragrance added Remove heavy, dramatic makeup Break down latex glue Water based – are a water solution to which other solvents have been added Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective

Grease paint – heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes Cake or pancake makeup – Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened sponge Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and pigmentation defects

Makeup Brushes and Tools Hair – bristles of the makeup brush Ferrule – metal ring that holds bristles intact Double crimping or ring around ferrule is best Handle – Wide range of lengths Wood, acrylic, plastic, metal

Caring for Makeup Brushes Commercial sanitizer can be used for quick cleaning Spraying cleaner over a long period of time can dry out brushes A gentle shampoo or brush solvent should be used Will not hurt bristles and may help them last longer

Caution: - the brush should always be put into running or still water with the ferrule pointed down If brushes are pointing up- water may remove the glue holding the bristles in place Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing Brushes will dry in the shape they are left in Reshape wet bristles and lay flat to dry State Regulatory Alert - 818

Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder and blend edges of color Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush used for applying blush Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat edge Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge

Eye shadow brushes – variety of sizes – small to large, soft – firm The softer and larger the brush the more diffused and blended the shadow will be A firm brush is better for depositing dense color than for blending Eyeliner brush – firm, tapered, firm bristles

Angle brush – firm, thin bristles Lash and brow brush – comb-like brush used to remove excess mascara on lashes or to comb brow into place Tweezers – metal or plastic - used to remove excess facial hair Eyelash curler – metal or plastic used to give lift and upward curl to upper lashes Pencil sharpener – used before and after each application of pencil cosmetics

Disposable Implements Sponges variety of shapes and sizes Apply and blend foundation, cream or powder blush, pressed powder or concealer Powder or cotton puffs – velour or cotton – used to apply and blend powder, foundation or powder blush

Mascara wand – plastic – one use only! Spatulas wooden or plastic Wide, flat base Remove product from containers

Disposable lip brushes – one time use only! Sponge-tipped shadow applicators – apply shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner Use damp to intensify eye shadow color Cotton swabs – apply shadow, blend eyeliner, remove unwanted makeup from eyes or lips Cotton pads or puffs – apply astringents or makeup removers, apply powder products Focus on – PP 818

Makeup Color Theory Everyone sees colors differently It may take awhile for you to see color naturally and easily

Primary colors – cannot be obtained from a mixture Blue Red yellow Secondary colors – mix equal parts of two (2) primary colors Orange Green violet

Tertiary colors – mix an equal a mount of a primary and the adjacent secondary colors Red-orange Orange-yellow Yellow-green Green-blue Blue-violet Violet-red

Complementary colors – primary and secondary colors opposite each other on the color wheel Red – green (Christmas) Yellow – violet (Easter) Blue – orange (almost Halloween) These colors cancel each other out to make a neutral brown or gray When next to each other they look brighter

Warm and Cool Colors Warm – Red Yellow orange Cool – Blue Green violet

Selecting Makeup Color Three main factors Skin color Eye color Hair color

Determining Skin Color 1st Light Medium Deep/dark 2nd Warm Cool Neutral - equal amounts of warm/cool

Warm colors Yellow and gold Oranges Red-orange Most reds Some yellow-greens

Complementary Colors for Eyes Neutrals will always be safest choice Have both warm/cool Work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair color By contrasting eye color with complementary colors – emphasize the color most effectively Taupe to brown: gray to white or black

Cool colors Blues Greens Violets Blue-reds

Reds Greens Orange based – warm Blue based - cool More gold – warm More blue - cool

Light skin color Medium skin color Deep skin color Light tones – soft natural look Medium to dark tones – more dramatic look Medium skin color Medium tones – understated look Dark or light tones – striking and vivid Deep skin color Dark tones – most subtle Medium to medium-light tones- striking and vivid

Be cautious choosing tones lighter than the skin If too light skin will appear gray or chalky Look for translucent or shimmery colors

Complementary Colors Blue eyes – orange Contains yellow and red Make eyes look bluer Gold, warm orange/brown peach, and copper Red-browns mauves and plum Neutrals taupe or camel

Green eyes – red Red shadows tend to make the eye look tired or bloodshot Pure red tones not recommended Brown-based reds Red-orange, red-violet, Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples

Brown eyes – neutral Any color Contrasting colors Greens, blues, grays, silvers

Adding Cheek and Lip Color Coordinate with same color family as the eye makeup Choose neutrals – coordinate with any makeup colors

Hair Color and Eye Color Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup colors Table 822 Table 24 – 3

Reviewing Color Selection Steps 1. Determine skin level: dark, medium, light 2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, neutral 3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown etc. 4. Determine complementary colors 5. Determine hair color: warm, cool

6. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors 7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, cool neutral 8. Apply Makeup

Mature Skin Uneven textured skin Shimmer, glitter or frosted Wrinkles or sun damage Shimmer, glitter or frosted Accent dry patches or wrinkles Muted, sifter colors are best – avoid creating hard lines

Expression lines and wrinkles – minimized with primer and foundation Apply primer evenly Foundation used sparingly Applied in light, outward, circular motions Remove any foundation that collects in deep recesses and concave areas

Analyzing Features and Face Shape Emphasize attractive features and minimize less attractive Goal of effective makeup is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard No one is perfect or symmetrical

Do define every feature – chiseled and overdone Highlight Product is lighter than skin tone Placed on high planes of the face Contour Product is darker than skin tone Create shadows over prominent features – less noticeable Do define every feature – chiseled and overdone

Oval-shaped Face Face is divided into three (3) equal horizontal sections (pp. 823 figure 24-18) 1st – 1/3 hairline to top of the eyebrows 2nd – 1/3 top of eyebrows to the end of the nose 3rd – 1/3 end of nose to the bottom of the chin Oval face is approximately ¾ as wide as it is long Distance between the eyes is the width of one eye

Round Face Broader in proportion to its length Rounding chin and hairline Makeup applied to: slenderize lengthen the face

Square-shaped Face Comparatively straight lines Wide forehead Square jawline Corrective makeup applied to: offset the squareness soften the hard lines

Triangular (Pear-shaped) Face Jaw is wider than forehead Corrective makeup is applied to: create width at the forehead Slenderize the jaw Add length to the face

Inverted Triangle (Heart-shaped) Face Wide forehead and narrow pointed chin Corrective makeup applied to: minimize width of forehead Increase width of jawline

Diamond-shaped Face Narrow forehead Greatest width is at cheekbones (zygomatic bones) Corrective makeup applied to: reduce width across cheekbone

Oblong Face Greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face It is long and narrow Corrective makeup is applied to: Create illusion of width across cheekbone (zygomatic bone) Making the face appear shorter

Forehead Area Low forehead Protruding forehead Application of lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between brows and hairline Protruding forehead Apply a darker foundation over prominent area to give an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face Suitable hairstyle will also draw attention away from the forehead

Nose and Chin Areas Large or protruding nose Short or flat nose Darker foundation on the nose Lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose Creates fullness in the cheeks and makes nose appear smaller Avoid cheek color on nose Short or flat nose Lighter foundation down center of nose Makes nose appear longer and larger If nostrils are wide apply darker foundation to both sides of nostrils

Protruding chin and receding nose Broad nose Darker foundation on sides of nose and nostrils Avoid darker foundation on laugh lines - it will accentuate them Carefully blend foundation to avoid visible lines Protruding chin and receding nose Shadow chin with darker foundation Highlight nose with lighter foundation

Receding chin Sagging double chin Highlight chin with lighter foundation Sagging double chin Use darker foundation on the sagging portion Use natural skin tone foundation on the face

Jawline and Neck Area Blend foundation onto the neck so the client’s color is consistent from face to neck Set with translucent powder to avoid transfer onto client's clothing Broad jawline Apply darker shade of foundation over heavy area of jaw – starting at the temples This will minimize the lower part of the face and create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face

Round, square, or triangular face Narrow jawline Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade Round, square, or triangular face Apply a darker shade of foundation over the prominent part of the jawline By creating a shadow over this area the prominent part will appear softer and more oval

Small face and short, thick neck Darker foundation on the neck Will make the neck appear thinner Long thin neck Lighter shade of foundation on the neck This will create fullness and counteract the long thin appearance of the neck

Corrective Makeup for the Eyes Round eyes Lengthen by extending eye shadow beyond the outer corner of the eyes Close-set eyes (closer than length of one eye) Lightly apply shadow up from outer edge of the eye

Protruding or bulging eyes Minimized by blending shadow carefully over the prominent part of the upper lid Carrying it lightly toward the brows Use a medium to deep shadow color Heavy-lidded eyes Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket

Dark circles under eyes Small eyes Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes Wide-set eyes Apply shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid toward the nose and blend carefully Dark circles under eyes Apply concealer over dark area, blending and smoothing into surrounding area Set with translucent powder

Deep-set eyes Use bright, light, reflective colors Use the lightest color in the crease Light to medium color sparingly on the lid and brow bone

Eyebrows Well-groomed eyebrows are a part of the complete and effective makeup application The eyebrow is the frame for the eye Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on the brow bone or between the eyebrows Over-tweezed eyebrows can make the face look puffy or protruding, or may give the eyes a surprised look

To correct eyebrow shape Remove all unnecessary hairs and demonstrate how to use an eyebrow pencil Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three (3) lines Page 827 Figure 24-37 1st – vertical from corner of nose to inner corner of the eye (eyebrow begins) 2nd – corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye ( eyebrow ends) 3rd – vertical from the outer center of the iris (highest part of the arch)

Adjustments to Eyebrow Shape Low forehead Low arch gives more height to a very low forehead Wide-set eyes Extend the eyebrow line to the inner corners of the eye Be careful not to give a frowning look Close-set eyes Widen the distance between the eyebrows and slightly extend them outward

Round face Long face Square face Arch the brows high to make face appear narrow Start directly above the inside corner of the eye and extend to the end of the cheekbone Long face Make the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face Do not extend the brows farther than the outside corners of the eye Square face Face will appear oval if the arch is high on the ends of the eyebrow Begin directly above the corners of the eyes and extend them outward

Eyelash Enhancers Contain fiber to make lashes look longer & fuller Built into mascara or separate product Prescription drug “Latisse®”

The Lips Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils Lip Figures

Skin Tones Ruddy skin Red, wind-burned or affected by rosacea Apply a yellow or green foundation to affected areas blending carefully Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow base over entire complexion Set with a translucent or yellow-based powder Avoid red or pink blushes

Sallow skin Skin that has a yellowish hue Apply pink based foundation on the affected areas and blend carefully into the jaw and neck Set with translucent powder Avoid yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and lips

Camouflaging Techniques Conceal scars, burns, tattoos etc. Cream, paste, liquid, powder Airbrush Alternating layers of products until covered Advanced technique Requires serious practice to master

Lighting Adequate and flattering Be sure client’s face is evenly lit without dark shadows Natural light best choice Combination of incandescent (warm and most flattering) and fluorescent (cool) Make sure light shine directly and evenly on the face

Client Consultation Listen closely and try not to impose your own opinions Your role is: To hear your client’s wishes Concerns To make recommendations based on your knowledge

Consultation Area Clean Tidy Clean brushes after each use Tidy makeup area daily Portfolio - your own pictures Magazine layouts

Makeup Consultation Visually assess client to understand their personal style Engaging the client in conversation will help determine their needs

Gather information on Skin conditions How much or how little is normally worn Daily versus special occasion makeup Amount of time spent applying makeup Colors likes or dislikes Any makeup the client is having trouble with

Wrinkles Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be minimized with a foundation Apply the foundation sparingly and evenly in a light, outward, circular motion Care should be taken to remove any foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles

Corrective Makeup All faces are interesting in their own special way, but few are perfect These tiny imperfections can make the face more interesting if treated artfully Facial makeup can create the illusion of better balance and proportion when desired Caution box

Basic rule for makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature and shadowing minimizes it A highlight is produced when a cosmetic, usually foundation is lighter than the original foundation is used on the a particular part of the face A shadow is formed when the foundation is darker than the original color The use of shadows minimizes prominent features so that they are less noticeable

Artificial Eyelashes Clients with sparse lashes and clients who want to enhance their eyes for special occasions are most likely going to request this service The objective is to make the client’s own lashes look fuller, longer and more attractive without appearing unnatural (unless the occasion calls for dramatic or enhanced look)

Artificial Lashes Band lashes - Strip lashes Individual lashes Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line Individual lashes Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time Eyelash adhesive Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere or stick to the natural lash line

Applying Band Lashes Caution box pp. 834 Human hair, mink hair or synthetic fibers Synthetic fibers are made with a curl will not react to the weather Variety of colors Procedures pp. 840 - 842

Removing Strip Lashes Commercial preparations Lash base may be softened by applying a face cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out client’s own lashes Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid

Individual Lashes Synthetic Attached directly to client's own lashes Eye tabbing Follow mfg. directions Here’s a tip - Page 835

How to Use Special-Occasion Makeup Time for you to work your magic Subdued lighting: More definition for eyes, cheeks, and lips Add drama by applying false eyelashes and shimmery colors on eyes, lips, cheeks or complexion Wedding: Matte colors are recommended Shimmer may reflect too much light

Special Occasion Makeup for Eyes Striking contour eyes Page 835 - Dramatic Smoky Eyes Pages 836

Special Occasion Makeup for Cheeks Use darker blush under cheekbones to add definition Add brighter, lighter color to apples of cheeks and blend Use cheek color with shimmer or glitter over cheekbones for highlight PP 836

Special Occasion Makeup for Lips 1. Apply lip liner to, fill in lip line with pencil, and blot 2. Add similar color in lipstick over entire lip area 3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips PP 836 Activity: color faces

Professional Makeup Application Page 837 - 839