Linear Wave Theory (10pt)

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Presentation transcript:

Linear Wave Theory (10pt) The maximum vertical particle velocity occurs at (1) Crest (2) trough (3) crossing-point

capillary waves (10pt) What is the primary restoring force for capillary waves? Coriolis force Gravity force Surface tension

Tsunamis (10pt) What is the ratio of tsunami celerity at 400m waterdepth to that at 40m waterdepth?

Elastic Wave on Tensioned String (15pt) When Tension=300N, Mass/length=3kg/m, Circular frequency=10rad/s Find the corresponding wavelength!

Airy’s Linear Wave Theory (15pt) Wave length=120m, water depth=15m What is the wave period?

Celerity & Group Velocity (15pt) If a sinusoidal wave has the following dispersion relation between circular frequency w and wave number k w=3k Find its celerity and group velocity.

Celerity & Group Velocity (15pt) When wavelength=80m at 6m water depth, what is the group velocity?

particle velocity (20pt) When wavelength=80m at 6m water depth (same as previous question), what is the maximum horizontal particle velocity at the crest of 2-m wave amplitude?

Wave energy (20pt) What is the total wave energy in one wavelength and along 1-km crest line in deep water for H=4m T=11s

Wave Power (20pt) What is wave power in deep water per unit width of crest line? H=4m T=11s

Encounter Frequency: Doppler Effect (20pt) If ship speed is 6m/s and advancing in the same direction as a linear wave of length=120m in deep water, What is the encounter wave frequency observed from the ship?

Partial Standing Wave (30pt) When maximum and minimum free-surface elevations above MWL are 1m and 0.2m and the distance between them is 30m Find wave length and reflection coefficient!

Perfect Standing Wave (30pt) In Deepwater, Elevation of anti-node above MWL=4m Wave period=10s What is the magnitude of horizontal particle velocity 2m below the node?

Particle Orbit of Linear Wave (25pt) Wave length=100m, water depth=10m, wave height=2m What is the major semi-axis (longer radius) of the elliptical orbit at z=0?

Pressure (30pt) Wave length=100m, water depth=10m, wave height=2m (same as previous question) What is the static and dynamic pressure magnitude 3m below MWL?

Shoaling (30pt) In case of normal incidence and mild-slope seabed (neglect refraction and reflection) What is the new wavelength and wave height at depth=7m for 11s deepwater wave.